Rugged reminder

That I&rsquom crazy about almost all things Turkish is no secret. Ceramics, kilims, kilim cushion covers, carpets (yes, I even managed to squeeze one of those into my suitcase), &lsquoevil eyes&rsquo in many forms, poufs, coffee, tea, tea cups, even their funky tulip-shaped tea cups &mdash I spent my trip in Turkey risking my job as I pondered over ways to meet my baggage allowance. It&rsquos not all my fault, though. Turkey, especially Istanbul, is that kind of place. Any corner you turn, a profusion of indigenous merchandise assaults the eyes, rendering even a non-shopper vulnerable. The most inescapable, next to the &lsquoevil eye&rsquo, but far prettier, are these woven Turkish bookmarks &mdash miniatures of Turkey&rsquos famed weaves, both antique and modern. Available everywhere (even the airport if you don&rsquot manage to grab a few in town), easy to pack and at $1 or TRY 2 a piece, they&rsquore a good bargain.