![Grumpy traveller William Dalrymple](http://media.assettype.com/outlooktraveller%2Fimport%2Foutlooktraveller%2Fpublic%2Fuploads%2Farticles%2Ftravelnews%2Ffiles%2F2015%2F06%2F251115165821-William_Dalrymple_2014.jpg?w=480&auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=max)
Three things I&rsquod like to change about Indian Railways less grim carriages better food cleaner stations. Things I love being able to open the door, sit on the sill and watch village India pass by. My favourite train journey is the ride up from Kalka to Shimla.
(As told to Lata Khubchandani and Amit Dixit)