It may be slightly overstuffed in the upholstery department, but drawing back the window dressing reminds us why we chose to stay seven kilometres from where the action is &mdash Dar-Es-Salam is located right on Nagin Lake, in elegant grounds. The 14-room boutique property&rsquos other great attractions central heating in a log-lined, colonial style property and the riverside barbecue restaurant. Meals are pre fixed and delicious, service slightly laidback, coffee freshly brewed. The tiny jetty at the bottom of the lawns leads to an early-morning shikara ride to the Dal Lake. Tariff Rs 6,950&ndash18,000 doubles, meals extra. Contact 0194-2427803, hoteldaressalam.com