Rediscovering the heritage of India--Part I

CHANDERI, MADHYA PRADESH
There are palaces, museums, tombs, gateways and pillars to be explored in this historic part of Bundelkhand in central India&mdashsome more notable than others, such as the Khilji Sarai, built during the rule of Ghiyasuddin Khilji, and the majesty of its towering minarets and arched colonnade is evident even today. The Alia ki Baoli in Fatehabad has epigraphy in Persian verse, and the four-storey-deep Battisi Baoli, which lies to the northwest of the city, has eight ghats at each level. There&rsquos also Koshak Mahal, an imposing victory monument, and the ASI-maintained Ramnagar Palace, an erstwhile hunting lodge. (www.chanderiheritage.in)

BOHRAWADS OF SIDHPUR, GUJARAT
Like the nattukottais of Chettinad and the havelis of Shekhawati, the Bohrawads of Sidhpur are a throwback to an extraordinary past. Not even the passage of time, the changing fortunes of the trading community, and the cost of maintaining such extravagance with the respect it deserves can diminish the splendour of their architectural genius, ornate interiors, colourful fa&ccedilades and the sense of stepping into the pages of history. Despite valiant efforts by a handful of conservationists, these lovelies are falling apart or being ripped for antiquities, so make a day-trip from Ahmedabad before apathy gobbles them up altogether. (www.gujarattourism.com)

RATNAGIRI&rsquoS BURMESE PALACE, MAHARASHTRA
King Thibaw and Queen Supayalat ruled Burma for seven years, residing in the opulent Golden Palace in Mandalay and adored as demi-gods till the British attacked and exiled them permanently to Ratnagiri, then a slumbering hamlet in Maharashtra, where they lived in ignominious isolation for 31 years with their four daughters. The modest yet lovely palace they built here has three storeys, sloping roofs, extensive wood carving, a dance hall with marble tiles, and a Buddha idol the king carried from Burma himself. Ratnagiri is a major halt on the scenic Konkan Railway. Stay at Atithi Parinay (from Rs 2,800 www.atithiparinay.com).

THE STEPWELL AT ADALAJ, GUJARAT
An architectural achievement that features exquisite detail in stonework, this historic stepwell (vav in Gujarati), built in 1499, is five astonishing storeys deep. Such &lsquowater buildings&rsquo were constructed as essential and ecologically sensible reservoirs in the semi-arid regions of central and western India to meet the drinking water needs of villages, towns and caravanserais along trade routes. Some of them were invested with such artistry that they remain tourist attractions centuries after outliving their original purpose. The water level rises after the rains, and it&rsquos a delightfully cool sanctuary in the hostile summer of the region. (18km from Ahmedabad www.gujarattourism.com)

BIJAPUR&rsquoS GOL GUMBAZ, KARNATAKA
This wonderfully clever edifice belonging to the subtly expressive Deccan school of architecture gets its name from the imposing circular dome (its internal diameter spans a massive 37.2m) atop a cavernous hall designed like a cube, the four corners of which have octagonal towers that are seven storeys high. Climb up the staircase inside to reach the &lsquowhispering gallery&rsquo overlooking the symmetrically aligned mausoleum of Mohammed Adil Shah. It features an extraordinary acoustical device even the softest sound uttered at one end may be heard on the other, and distinct sounds like a clap are echoed over 10 times. (www.karnatakaholidays.net)

THE ROCK SHELTERS OF BHIMBETKA, MADHYA PRADESH
Just 45km southeast of Bhopal, on the road to Hoshangabad, scattered over a site that&rsquos 10km long and 3km wide, are over 700 rock shelters, 400 of which have prehistoric paintings dating from the Lower Paleolithic period. Apart from tools, inscriptions, stupas, enclosures and other structures evolved over the ages, it&rsquos Bhimbetka&rsquos rock paintings that captivate visitors. The artistry in the &lsquoauditorium rock shelter&rsquo dates back nearly a hundred thousand years and record efforts at survival, whereas the &lsquozoo rock shelter&rsquo is dense with depictions of beasts from the Mesolithic to the Medieval ages. (open sunrise to sunset www.mptourism.com)

BUNDI, RAJASTHAN
Bundi does make for a very real Rajasthan, away from heightened touristy expectations, somehow mellow, rich and laidback at the same time. The palace here is among the best preserved in India, and then there&rsquos the magnificent Taragarh Fort. The narrow lanes and bazaars aren&rsquot yet overtaken by vehicles, the houses are often painted blue, there are temples at every turn, and friendly locals and frequent festivals add to the absorbing experience. Oh, do keep a look out for the Bundi School of miniature paintings, a serious pursuit for art lovers. Kota (40km away) is the nearest well-connected railhead. (www.rtdc.in)

MONOLITHS IN MEGHALAYA
The summer capital of the erstwhile Jaintia kingdom is home to the Nartiang monolith park&mdashit has the state&rsquos largest collection of dolmen, menhirs and artefacts like the mookhrah (round stones used in traditional stone-throwing competitions). Further away, near Jowai, are the monoliths of Thlumuwi. The famous stone bridge here connected the Jaintia rulers&rsquo winter and summer capitals, with monoliths serving as resting places for wayfarers. The stone bridges of Syndai, and the Rupasor bathing pool carved out of a single rock with water inlets and outlets that rely only on gravity are other marvels. (www.megtourism.gov.in)

AMARKANTAK, MADHYA PRADESH
Typically, rivers originate at an altitude, which here is a modest 1,048m given the scale of what it births. But Amarkantak, origin of the magnificent Narmada, is a teerthraj, king among pilgrimages. Here is Narmadakund, with a temple to the river goddess, and nearby, the weathered 10th-century Karna Matha shrine built by Jabalpur&rsquos Kalchuri rulers. A kilometre or so away is the origin of the Sone River (the &lsquoSone Muda&rsquo). The 100-odd steps cut into the hillside here lead to the edge of the Amarkantak Plateau and some splendid views of the Satpura Hills. (www.mptourism.com)

UNAKOTI, TRIPURA
The gifted but unknown artists of Unakoti carved dramatic stonework upon a remote hillside back in the 8th or 9th century CE, turning it into a profusely sculptured open-air gallery in scenic Tripura, over 175km from the state capital of Agartala. Very clearly, the workmanship at Unakoti spans decades, owes allegiance to both Hindu and Buddhist forms of worship, and is the work of several sculptors. The sparkling waters of a spring cascade down the hillside to the cavern-pond or cherra called Sitakund, where pilgrims throng for a dip during the Ashokastami fair every March-April. It&rsquos a scene fit for the gods. (www.tripuratourism.nic.in)