Uganda--s critically endangered mountain gorillas

The only thing I knew about Uganda were the horrors of Idi Amin and the subsequent years of civil strife, during which my college friend Roni was robbed and shot at in 1982.

Twenty years on, Uganda is a very different country and the Ugandans a recovering people. Roni and his family, who played most gracious hosts to us in Kampala, are third- and fourth-generation Indians living in Uganda. His grandfather Mujhibhai Madhvani left for undivided East Africa at the age of 18, with Kutchhi true-grit, in the wake of the 1896-97 famine.

Kampala, originally spread over seven hills, is today a sprawling African city with bumper-to-bumper traffic. Our abode on Kilolo Hill offered the most magnificent view of the city with Lake Victoria glimmering in the distance.

Unlike Kenya, where you apparently bump into zebras at the bus-stop, Uganda does not have the same density of large mammals, but the authorities have made enormous strides by setting up a number of national parks. What they are very proud of, and rightly so, is the conservation and protection, by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), of the critically endangered mountain gorillas (Gorilla gorilla berengei).

Despite possible unrest in the north, we headed for the Murchison Falls National Park. The highway was excellent all the way, tracing a dead straight northwesterly route, despite the five-hour journey. At the end of it, it was a thrill to stand on the edge of the Nile&mdashknown here as the Victoria Nile. At Paraa, we made the narrow crossing by ferry to the Paraa Safari Lodge. Each morning, park rangers report at the lodge to accompany vehicles going on safari. The park is huge and you rarely bump into fellow giraffe-spotters. On our first day we spotted a lion perched most awkwardly up a tree with Rothschild&rsquos giraffes looming below. The launch journey up the river brought us to the spectacular Murchison Falls. The waters plummet 40m after being squeezed through a 7m wide gorge. The following day, we journeyed to the top of the falls, affording far more dramatic views. Along the Nile lazed many a hippo, the African Buffalo and the world&rsquos largest living reptile, the Nile crocodile.

I had arranged a UWA boat to take us on a half-day angling trip on the Nile. We crisscrossed the river, under the expert guidance of the boat&rsquos captain. The real challenge was to catch the Nile perch. Legend has it that the largest one caught so far (on Lake Victoria) weighed in at 232kg. What we did bag in the end was a magnificent 20kg catfish and a smaller 10kg one. This is one of Uganda&rsquos best-kept secrets, hidden for far too long.

There is no decent road from the Murchison Falls NP to the Queen Elizabeth NP, so we had to drive back to Kampala for a night. We set off early for Mweya Lodge in order to cover the seven hours, driving past the point which marks the Equator and cuts the earth into two neat halves. Sam, our soft-spoken driver and guide, stopped quite suddenly on what seemed to be a ridge and pointed to the left. I let out a gasp&mdashthis was the great African Rift Valley stretching into the horizon. I had dreamed about this day since my school geography classes. On the western side of the escarpment were the Rwenzoris or Mountains of the Moon. On the floor of the valley, the Kazinga Channel linked the great lakes George and Edward.

But nothing had prepared me for the breathtaking view from the Mweya Safari Lodge. Perched on an isthmus, the lodge overlooks the channel and both the lakes. The hippos and warthogs walked up to our cottage from the waterside to graze. The gourmet delights, the pool with a view, the well-stocked bar, all under the watchful eye of Richard, an old Africa hand. I was shaken out of my deep reverie to go on our evening safari with Sam at the helm. Binoculars and bird-book at the ready, we geared up for the visual onslaught of birds and beasts&mdashlions, African elephants, warthogs, giant forest hogs, Uganda kob, impala, the hammerkop in its untidy nest, the awkward Jackson&rsquos francolin, African fish eagle and the jacana.

Then it was time to head off for the pi&egravece de r&eacutesistance of my Uganda trip&mdashtracking mountain gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable NP. Straddling the borders of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, the Virungas are not a mountain range as such, but more freestanding volcanic cones strung along a faultline. Bwindi&rsquos gorilla population is secure today thanks to political stability in Uganda.

Gorilla permits have to be purchased well in advance as only 18 people are allowed to track these mighty primates every day in Bwindi. Armed with a number of &lsquocome back soon Mama&rsquo cards from my children, I set off on a rough four-hour drive from Mweya. Sam was keen to get to the Buhoma Homestead, where I was to stay overnight, before dark. We drove through Kihihi and Butotoga after which the road became a bumpy dust track. The room was tacky but manageable and the bathroom reminiscent of rural India. Certainly not worth the $60 paid upfront. The balcony overlooked the truly dense Impenetrable Forest and the mist was coming down very fast. I was getting more and more nervous with each new arrival at the &lsquohomestead&rsquo. Everyone looked infinitely fitter than me. I was in tears as I stared at my inadequate canvas trainers. I focussed on finishing Dian Fossey&rsquos account of her life and times with the gorillas.

The next morning, armed with a packed lunch and lots of drinking water, I walked down to the UWA-manned entrance to the forest, trying not to cling too hard to Sam. The UWA has photographs of all the habituated (i.e. those which are used to humans) gorilla families. Trackers go out early each morning and send back messages about where the group is roughly located on that day. I was to track the Mubare Group. Because gorillas and humans are so close genetically, the chances of passing on infections to them is very high. For this reason, the number of visitors is restricted and you are asked not to track the gorillas if you&rsquore ill, even if it is a cold. Only six permit-holders make up a tracking group, led by a knowledgeable guide, two armed guards and six porters. The armed guards are a protection against guerillas, not the gorillas. The rain that morning meant that the steep path was slippery as well. If it were not for my porter, who at times actually pushed me up the slopes, I may never have made it. After four hours of hard trekking, we had only reached the fringes of the forest. Good news the Mubare Group was nearby and we would not have to walk much further. My chance to pretend to be Richard Attenborough cutting through the forest with my machete would have to wait.

All my disappointments disappeared in a trice, however, when we reached the spot where the Mubare Group had made their large and comfortable day nest with layers of leaves. The gorillas were intent on their grooming. Two infants swung from the lianas, and one of them landed squarely on the belly of the handsome sleeping silverback, the patriarch of the group. He grunted and smacked the juvenile for disturbing his peace. The little one retreated hurt, but was soon rescued by the dominant female, who caressed and groomed it tenderly. Two juveniles indulged in grooming and play on the floor of the nest.

We had exactly an hour in which to absorb this incredible sight and to take as many photographs, falling all over each other to get the best shots. With 10 minutes of our stipulated hour to go, the silverback raised himself from his slumber and showed himself in all his splendour. He possessed an impressive head with a huge crest on the top and the silver colouring on his back stretched like a band around his torso. He grunted and summoned his harem and progeny. As if on cue, when our hour was up, the Mubare Group too walked into the forest. We continued to sit there for a while, trying to hold on to the remarkable scene we had witnessed. It took us three hours to get back to the road and we drove back to Mweya in silence, content.

The information

Getting there Emirates, Ethiopian Airlines and Kenya Airways offer connections to Entebbe airport (Kampala) from India.

Where to stay

In Kampala The best hotel in town is the Sheraton Kampala Hotel (www.starwoodhotels.com).

In Murchison Falls NP Set in landscaped gardens, the Paraa Safari Lodge (www.paraalodge.com) enjoys splendid views of Murchison Falls.

In Queen Elizabeth NP At the Mweya Safari Lodge (www.mweyalodge.com), each room overlooks the Kazinga Channel and Lake Edward. Contact for both lodges marasa@starcom.co.ug.

In Bwindi Impenetrable NP Besides the Buhoma Homestead (www.africanpearlsafaris.com), there are swish tents as well as budget rooms.

KAMPALA
Overlooking Lake Victoria, Uganda&rsquos capital is today a vibrant, upbeat city. Attractions include the Kasubi Tombs, Kibuli Mosque, Uganda Museum, Entebbe Botanic Gardens and the Shree Swaminarayan Mandir. A popular day-trip from Kampala is to the Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, on Ngamba Island in Lake Victoria.

NATIONAL PARKS
The national parks of Uganda include Murchison Falls, QueenElizabeth, Bwindi Impenetrable,Kibale, Mgahinga, and Rwenzori.

GORILLA TRACKING
This involves strenuous walking inthe wilderness in search of thesegreat apes&mdashphysical fitness is amust. Six people are permitted pergroup per day and a total of 18people are taken into Bwindi (sixare allowed for Mgahinga).Currently, four gorilla groups areavailable for viewing, three inBwindi Impenetrable National Park(Mubare, Habinyanja andRushegura) and one (Nyakagezi) inMgahinga Gorilla National Park. Chimpanzee and goldenmonkey tracking is also available.

TOUR OPERATORS
Pearl of Africa Tours (www.pearlofafricatours.com) VolcanoesSafaris (www.volcanoessafaris.com) Abercrombie & Kent(www.abercrombiekent.com)

NEED TO KNOW
&mdashUganda is set on a plateau, averaging 900m above sea level, so the temperature is about 26o C in the day and 16 degrees C at night. The landscape ranges from semi-desert to snowy mountains, and includes the lakes Victoria (source of the Nile), Albert and Edward.

&mdashA vaccination certificate against cholera and yellow fever is required.

&mdashMore information available at these websites Uganda Tourist Board (www.visituganda.com) and Uganda Wildlife Authority (www.uwa.or.ug)