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“That which seems like poison at first, but tastes like nectar in the end—this is the joy of sattva, born of a mind at peace with itself.”
This teaching from Lord Krishna motivated me to keep going during my hike to Yulla Kanda (3,895m), home to the highest Krishna Temple in the world. However, unlike the verse, the hike felt like tasting nectar from the very beginning.
Yulla Kanda, nestled in Dev Bhoomi Himachal Pradesh, is one of the most spiritually significant places in the region. Located in Rora Valley, Kinnaur district, this trek of about 12 kilometres is more than just a journey through breathtaking landscapes—it’s a spiritual pilgrimage. Although the trek becomes especially lively during the festival of Janmashtami, the sacredness of this place extends beyond a single celebration, making it a year-round destination for those seeking peace and divine connection.
As I started my hike from the Yulla Khas village in the morning, I found myself surrounded by Kinnauri apples, wildflowers and beautiful water streams. The hike itself is steep and moderately challenging, but the stunning alpine meadows, towering pine trees, and traditional architecture made every step worthwhile.
By late afternoon, I reached the base camp, greeted by a blanket of clouds and the welcoming warmth of the locals. A simple meal of Maggi and rajma chawal felt like a feast, and the Krishna songs and laughter around the camp created a festive and meditative atmosphere.
That night, as I lay in my tent, I could hear the sounds of fellow trekkers sharing stories, laughing, and preparing for the final ascent. The anticipation of reaching the temple the next morning filled me with excitement and calm.
The holy lake surrounding the temple is located at an elevation of 12,000 feet above sea level and is believed to have been created by the Pandavas during their exile. Indubitably, the temple's unique elevation makes it the highest Krishna Temple in the world. After interacting with the locals, I learned that swimming in the lake clears the mind and body of all negativity. Though I didn’t swim, I dipped my hands in the lake and chanted, “Hare Krishna.” The water was cold but I was filled with warmth—a feeling that is difficult to describe through words.
According to local legends, if you take a traditional Kinnauri cap or topi and try floating it inverted in the lake along the temple, you can discover your destiny. Locals claim that if the cap reaches the opposite side of the river without sinking, you will find peace and a fulfilled life in the future. At the temple, I was mesmerised by its ancient and exquisite architecture and the collective devotion that reverberated throughout the space.
Preserving the environment is equally crucial for sustaining the culture of places like Kinnaur, especially along routes like the Yulla Kanda trek. The landscape and the natural surroundings of Kinnaur are deeply integrated with the customs and traditions of the local communities. The flora, fauna and geography shape their festivals, rituals and even their everyday life.
Dedicated to preserving the beauty of the Himalayas, the Himalayn Tribe Foundation organised a clean-up drive at Yulla Kanda. The foundation plays a key role in raising awareness about environmental conservation. By protecting the sacred beauty of the Yulla Kanda region, they help preserve not just the land but also the cultural identity of the local people. When we leave only footprints and take only memories with us, the environment remains untouched and pollution-free. Every element of nature holds significance in Kinnaur, where the mountains are considered sacred.
As I hiked back to the Yulla Khas village, I carried with me the blessings of Yulla Kanda and memories of a celebration that I’ll always hold dear.
The best time to undertake the Yulla Kanda trek is between mid-May and mid-October when the weather is more favourable, offering milder temperatures and lower chances of heavy rain or snow. During this period, the landscape is at its most stunning, with vibrant greenery and blooming flowers enhancing the beauty of the trek. The trails are also more accessible and safer, making for a more enjoyable and stress-free trekking experience.
To reach the Yulla Kanda trek, first travel to Shimla, which is well connected by air, rail, and road from major cities like Delhi and Chandigarh. From Shimla, make your way to Reckong Peo in Kinnaur district, a scenic 8-10 hour drive by bus or private taxi. Once in Reckong Peo, you can hire a local taxi or jeep to Yulla Khas village, about 25-30 km away, which serves as the starting point of the trek. The trek itself is a 12 km journey through beautiful apple orchards, meadows, and streams, leading to the Yulla Kanda temple at an altitude of 3,895 meters. The trail is moderately challenging, so ensure you're well-prepared with necessary supplies, as facilities are limited along the route.
