British rock band Coldplay will play their biggest show ever at the Narendra Modi Stadium in Ahmedabad on January 25, 2025, just a day before the country's Republic Day. The capital of Gujarat state is home to the Sabarmati Ashram—the residence of Mahatma Gandhi—a UNESCO-listed Old City whose heritage structures continue to inspire awe till today, a street food scene that will leave you licking your lips, and a textile industry that dates back to the 19th century.
Journalist Manisha Nainani, who lived in the city for 21 years, says that she "never realised till I had left the place that the city was a sweet-savoury mix of modern trends juxtaposed perfectly in the mould of a vintage city structure. I left the city for further studies and then came back here for a visit. On my bucket list were certain places I wanted to visit, not because they were listed in some "must go" traveller list, but because I have grown up around these places and to me, they represent a much authentic Ahmedabad than any such list."
Here are the top things you should see and do in Ahmedabad, with local tips by Nainani, in anticipation of Coldplay's visit.
An important stop for any Indian who wishes to learn more about the freedom struggle, the Sabarmati Ashram was one of the many residences of Mahatma Gandhi, who lived for 12 years with his wife Kasturba Gandhi and followers. From here, Gandhi led the Dandi March, also known as the Salt Satyagraha on March 12, 1930. In recognition of this march's significant influence on the Indian independence movement, the Indian government established the ashram as a national monument.
Here, visitors can see archival materials like writings, photographs, paintings, voice records, films and the personal effects of Gandhi at the Gandhi Memorial Museum; check out Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi’s rooms, kitchen and store room at the Hriday Kunj; visit the community living quarters of the Somnath Chhatralaya; tour the Udyog Mandir which symbolised self-reliance and dignity of labour; and visit the Upasana Mandir site where Gandhi gave his “Discourses on the Gita,” among other activities.
A stroll through the walled city area or old city on the eastern bank of the Sabarmati River is a great way to discover the facets of Ahmedabad that would otherwise be missed. The early morning heritage walk conducted by Ahmedabad’s Municipal Corporation is one of the best. It lets you delve deep into the local communities where you pay a visit to the pols (a housing cluster). The tour runs for about two and a half hours.
To avoid the crowds and enjoy the stunning view of Ahmedabad after dark, book an hour-long night tour conducted by the House of MG. You will visit restored havelis and walk by Jain temples, traditional bazaars, an old stock exchange and finish at the King’s mausoleum to witness a 600-year-old ritual. Afterwards, check out the bustling food market and try some local delicacies.
Once their belly has been filled, it is usual for Ahmedabadis to go for a weekend market spree, says Nainani. "From essentials to obsessions, roadside markets near Law Garden and Teen Darwaja have a fix for everything one needs to shop," she says. The Teen Darwaza market, which used to be just a wholesale fruit and dry fruit market, has now grown into a colourful flea mart of sorts where both new and secondhand goods are sold. This is a great place to be surrounded by vibrant colours and bustling crowds. However, dried fruits like dried kiwi and dried and seasoned strawberries make it worth a stroll.
During Navratri, locals like to go shopping to the Law Garden market area. The vast array of stalls here sell silver jewellery, traditional chaniya cholis, and Indo-Western fits. "These stalls also feed my obsession for oxidised jewellery and always have something new to offer," says Nainani.
A Gujarati thali has at least three fresh vegetable dishes, one dry dal or some sprouted pulses dish, a wet dal, kadhi, kathor, mithai, poori, rotis, steamed rice, chaash and papad. "For lunch, I opt for the Chadravilas thali. Apart from the amazing array of dishes, it puts me in the company of prominent figures like Mahatma Gandhi and Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, who have been here and ordered the same meal," says Nainani. Chandravilas was started by Chimmanlal M Raj Joshi in 1900 as a tea stall, and in 1922, the space was transformed into a restaurant. Mallav Joshi, the current owner, says that for over four generations, the restaurant has seen many leaders, actors and families come by and have animated conversations over their special jalebi fafda.
After spending half the day around old Ahmedabad, one can opt for a stroll along the Riverfront Road, which connects the city and provides a tranquil setting for evening walks, cycle rides and boating. "I sometimes stop by for a stroll, or at other times, I use this as a way to reach SG Highway and get a taste of contemporary Ahmedabad," Nainani says.
The Corporate Road is filled with corporate offices, multinational corporations and uber-chic cafés, making it a hub for the young professional population of the city. One can sit in these cafés and have a cuppa or go for a rooftop dining experience to enjoy the Ahmedabad skyline.
While on SG Highway, one can end the day in one of the poshest areas in the city, Sindhu Bhavan Road. The area not only has the most luxurious housing schemes across Ahmedabad, but it is also filled with food trucks and open-air lawn cafés.
Nainani recommends stopping by Fyro. "The slow soothing music coming from the truck, great playlists, strong coffee and amazing food creates the perfect vibe for hours-long hangs either with close friends or in solitude," she says.