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The Bhaja Caves in Lonavala offer a glimpse into ancient Buddhist culture and art in the Western Ghats of Maharashtra. These 22 caves are situated on a hill near Bhaja village in Pune. All these caves date back to the Hinayana phase, ranging from the 3rd century BC to the 2nd century AD. However, some caves were still in use until the 5th or 6th century AD, as indicated by painted Buddha images in the chaitya (prayer hall). These caves were carved into the hill, about 120 metres above the surrounding plains, facing west.
The nearby Indrayani River flows through the valley, and the area's historical significance is evident with the presence of two Maratha forts, Lohagadh and Visapur, on the adjacent hilltops.
The excavations at this site include three main structures: chaityagrihas, viharas, and podhis. The most notable among these excavations is the chaityagriha, considered one of the earliest of its kind and closely modelled after a wooden prototype. It features a large apsidal hall measuring 17.08 meters in length and 8.13 meters in width. This hall is divided into a central nave and side aisles by 27 pillars arranged in two straight rows that converge in a semicircular shape at the back. The nave's ceiling is vaulted, with original wooden beams in place.
At the back of the chaityagriha is a stupa measuring 3.45 meters in diameter for worship. This stupa features a prominent hemispherical dome on top of a cylindrical drum, crowned by a railing pattern known as the harmika.
Cave 18 is a monastery with a rectangular hall with a front verandah supported by pillars. Inside the hall are two cells on the back and right sides and a bench on the left. Unlike the round pillars in the chaitya hall, these pillars have square bases and tops with an octagonal shape in the middle. The hall is accessed through two doors from the verandah, and lavishly decorated "dvarapalas" guard these doors.
The verandah of this monastery is famous for two crucial sculptural reliefs. One shows a royal figure riding a chariot drawn by four horses, trampling over a demon-like figure. Some believe this royal personage represents the Sun god Surya. On the left side of the door, there's a depiction of a person riding an elephant with an ankusa (a bullhook), accompanied by attendants carrying a banner and spear. Some identify this figure as Indra.
In addition to Cave 18, the Bhaja Cave group includes simpler monasteries. These consist of basic halls with verandahs, with the galleries sometimes having cells on one, two, or three sides. There are also a few unique ones, like those with circular cells and a stupa inside. One unusual excavation in the group is recognized as a cemetery. It contains fourteen rock-cut stupas, with some of them bearing inscriptions with the names of sthaviras (Buddhist elders).
According to the Archaeological Survey of India website, Indian citizens, SAARC visitors and BIMSTEC visitors will be charged INR 25 per person, while others will be charged INR 300 per person. There is no entry fee for children up to 15 years.
Lonavala is easily accessible by road from Mumbai and Pune, the nearest major cities. After reaching there, take a taxi or auto-rickshaw to get to the Bhaja Caves, about 12-15 kilometres from the hill station.
