Dungeons and Djinns: This Fort In Delhi Houses History And Faith

The air is thick with smoke from the incense. Centuries of history and folklore imparts a sense of mystery to this fortified palace complex that stands tall even today, its decrepit buildings telling a tale of time. 

Situated between the old and new cities of Delhi, the Feroz Shah Kotla fort was constructed by Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq, as part of his capital Firozabad in the 14th century. The dilapidated soot-smeared walls of this ancient fort has coins stuck to them there are red threads tied to the grills and railings and prayer beads hang from abstract corners. There is more than just history that resides at this fort-inside the thick fortification walls runs a belief that this complex is home to djinns.  

Letters To The Djinns

These all-seeing djinns are a common part of the folktale here, kept alive by believers, many of whom throng here on Thursdays to pray at the dargah inside the fort. The most common way of communicating with these spirits is through letters you can find hundreds of them stuck to the walls or kept on the floor along with offerings of earthen lamps and incense smoke. Food is also offered, most of which is consumed by animals in the vast complex.

The letters are stuck deep inside the nooks and crannies of the fort, down a winding way that takes you to chambers and passages built when the fort came into existence. The coins on the walls are a sort of "payment" to these wish-granting spirits. It is believed that visiting the fort for seven straight Thursdays will lead to a fulfilled wish, but you are advised to keep your hair covered. Another superstition or belief that runs amok is that the resident djinns are attracted to open hair and can come to possess people who stray from this rule. 

But there is more to Feroz Shah Kotla Fort than just djinns. The fort is where medieval and ancient history meet. The Ashoka pillar inside the fort forms a unique link between the Mauryan Empire of the 3rd century BC and the Delhi Sultanate of the 14th century AD. The pillar, one of the many set up by Mauryan emperor Ashoka across his realm, was found in Ambala and brought to Delhi by Tughlaq and set up in the fort. Many heritage walks in the city often end at this monument, watching the sun go down on the capital and being enriched by the history that has stood the test of time.

Timings: 8.30 am to 7 pm

Entry Fee: For Indian is INR 15 and for foreigner is INR 200.