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The textile tradition of handloom, locally known as "taant" in Bengal, represents a vibrant and prosperous craft that has thrived for centuries. These textiles are an integral part of West Bengal's rich cultural heritage, renowned for their exquisite beauty and craftsmanship. From the delicate Tangail and Dhaniakhali to the intricate Jamdanis and Baluchari, Bengal's textiles stand as a testament to the remarkable skill and artistry of the region's weavers. On the occasion of National Handloom Day 2024, here is a guide that highlights some of the most celebrated textiles of Bengal and offers insights into where to find them in Kolkata.
Batik was introduced to Shantiniketan by the renowned poet and Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore. Deeply inspired by the captivating designs he encountered during his visit to Java in 1927, he brought back a few exquisite pieces of fabric to bring this rich tradition to India. While traditional Javanese batik primarily entails the use of a special spouted tool called a "canting," the skilled artisans of Shantiniketan simplified the process using a brush, leading to the unique style, which is also known as Tuli Batik. You can pick up batik fabric and clothing from khadi outlets in Gariahat and Dakshinapan.
Jamdani, a revered form of handloom weaving, stands out as a labour-intensive art form renowned for its intricate designs and delicate craftsmanship. Originating from the Mughal period in Dhaka, Bangladesh, Jamdani is celebrated for its fine muslin weave and artistic designs. During the Mughal emperor Jahangir's reign, plain Jamdani muslin was embellished with exquisite floral designs, reflecting the weavers' deep connection to nature and their surroundings. The traditional weaving method, devoid of machinery, would create geometric motifs that distinguished this textile. The Nadia and Burdhaman districts in West Bengal serve as prominent centres for producing Jamdani textiles. You can pick up good quality Jamdani from various sari shops in Gariahat and from Biswa Bangla stores in Kolkata.
The simple yet exquisite Dhaniakhali sari, steeped in centuries of tradition, was granted the prestigious Geographical Indication Tag (GI) in 2011. This handloom from Bengal is revered for its timeless beauty, typically woven in kora or natural grey, with a striking red or black plain border. You can pick them up at various sari stores around Gariahat in Kolkata, as well as from the handloom hub of Dhaniakhali village which dates back to 1938.
The Tangail is a traditional handwoven sari from West Bengal, and enjoys the Geographical Indication status. The exquisitely light cotton sari is intricately woven with figured motifs, making it a close cousin of the Jamdani. It shares the technique of weaving extra weft for patterns. You can pick them up from shops around Gariahat, Dakshinapan, as well as from the outlets of the state-run Biswa Bangla chain.
The traditional art of weaving Baluchari originated in Baluchar, Murshidabad, in West Bengal, and thrived under the patronage of the Nawab of Burdwan. After being relocated to Bishnupur due to natural calamities, the industry flourished during British rule. Baluchari saris are handwoven using traditional Jacquard techniques and crafted from pure silk, giving them a luxurious sheen. Adorned with intricate designs depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, these saris were unequivocally a symbol of aristocracy and high social standing.
The unique Garad saris are primarily woven in the Murshidabad district of West Bengal. The distinct style of weaving creates a particular texture and structure by closely intertwining the yarns. These saris are made of pure mulberry or Tussar silk threads in their natural, undyed form and are known for their elegant stiffness and simple patterned borders in red or maroo. The word "garad" means white, symbolising purity in Indian mythology. In ancient times, kings and zamindars draped themselves in Garad saris while performing religious customs and rituals. Today, a white Garad sari with a red border is a significant part of the wardrobe of Bengali women, and you can see them especially during the Durga Puja festival. You can pick up a Garad from sari shops around Gariahat and from some khadi oulets.
