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As Delhi gasps for breath, a trip to the clean and green Himalayas is an ideal option. If you are thinking about Kullu and Manali, planning a short vacation could be a great cultural and immersive experience.
With its beauty and the running clear water of River Beas, adventure activities, snow-kissed peaks, rich biodiversity, serenity, and spirituality, Kullu is sure to be an unforgettable experience.
Known as the "Land of the Gods,” Kullu-Manali is a place whose mention can be found in several mythological stories and legends, including the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Kullu-Manali's God-fearing people have strong faith in the deity culture. In fact, deities have an overriding rule in the decision-making part of many life events of the people, including marriages, construction of new houses, and other social rituals.
There is a belief that after the great deluge, Manu, the progenitor of humanity, is said to have rested his ark on a hillside and established his abode at the present Manali, which was formerly named ‘Manu-Alaya’ (i.e. the home of Manu).
During the Ramayana period, Shringi Rishi, who had his abode near Banjar, attended the ‘Putreshti Yajna’ organised by King Dashratha, after which Lord Ram was born. The name of the river Beas is assigned by common tradition to the celebrated saint Vashishtha, whose references are found in the Ramayana.
“The Hidimba temple in Manali, the Shangchool Mahadev temple in Sainj and the Dev Dhank in Nirmand are believed to be associated with the Pandavas,” said Ram Kishan Shastri, a Hindu priest in Kullu.
Visiting Kullu during Dussehra is, therefore, an experience not to be missed.
Dussehra—a week-long cultural extravaganza, is the most important festival of Kullu, which attracts lakhs of people, including tourists from India and abroad, to watch the “divine congregation” of 400 deities from all over Kullu district to be part of Lord Raghunath’s Rath Yatra—the moving images of palanquin-bound Idols of local deities dancing to the tunes played by ancient musical instruments.
Unlike the rest of India—where Dussehra symbolises the victory of Lord Rama against Ravana and is marked by the burning of giant effigies or display of weapons—swords, maces, bows and arrows—here the extravaganza is about the arrival of Lord Raghunath’s traditional Rath Yatra and more than 300 local deities converting the historic Dhalpur maidan into a divine assembly. It is also a perfect blend of ancient culture, religious fervour, faith and practices.
Lord Raghunath, another name for Lord Ram, is the presiding deity of Kullu. Dussehra celebrations begin only after the arrival of Lord Raghunath’s specially decorated chariot. The rare idol of Lord Raghunath was brought from Ayodhya in the 17th century. The legend about the over 370-year-old Kullu Dussehra goes that it was ‘Raja’ Jagat Singh, ruler of the kingdom of Kullu ( 1637 to 1672), who started the celebrations.
Once, Raja Jagat Singh learnt that a peasant named Durgadatta was in possession of many beautiful pearls. He decided to have these treasured pearls, even though the only pearls Durgadatta had were ‘Pearls of Knowledge.' But the king, in his greed, ordered Durgadutt to hand over his pearls or be hanged. Knowing of his inevitable fate at the hands of the king, Durgadatta threw himself on the fire and cursed the king, "Whenever you eat, your rice will appear as worms, and water will appear as blood"—which started happening to him eventually.
The king sought help from a saint, Krishnadas Payahari, who told him that in order to eradicate the curse, he must retrieve the deity of Raghunath from Ayodhya and install it in his kingdom. He sent a Brahmin named Damodar Dass to fetch the idol and bring it to him. The Brahmin set out for Ayodhya and stole the idol before he started his return journey. The people of Ayodhya, finding their beloved Ragunath missing, started chasing the Brahmin.
On the banks of the Saryu River, they approached the Brahmin and asked him why he had taken Raghunath ji. The Brahmin recounted the story of the Kullu king. The people of Ayodhya attempted to lift Ragunath, but their deity became incredibly heavy when headed back towards Ayodhya and became very light when taken towards Kullu.
On reaching Kullu, the idol was installed as the reigning deity of the Kullu kingdom. After that, the rituals of Dussehra started as Raja declared Raghunath ji as the presiding deity of Kullu. It started in 1606 and continues even today. The descendants of the king continue to conduct the ceremonies.
Asked if the spirit of Dussehra will continue or the politics will eventually take over, Maheshwar Singh, scion of Kullu’s royal family, who is also ‘Chief Kardar’ (Chief caretaker of Lord Raghunath), said, “Until I am alive, the tradition of Dussehra will continue without hindrance." The successive governments tried to undermine his position and interfered in the religious practices related to the Rath Yatra and Dussehra but failed to do anything.
The deities, brought in palanquins in their best religious fineries, are accompanied by hundreds of followers—who come from all over Kullu valley on foot, covering long distances up to 200 km, through the toughest mountain passes and rivulets. They pay obeisance to Raghunath ji and camp at Dhalpur ground for the next seven days even as lakhs of people, tourists including foreigners, become part of daily rituals.
Surat Singh Thakur, a professor of music who has authored several books on cultural tradition and folks, said, “After destruction having happened in Kullu, the deities have pronounced that it was just a reflection of what will come up in the next few years. The people have played havoc with nature due to greed. Destroyed forests, cut down trees, built buildings over rivers blocking their natural flow and ignored scientific warnings.”
It's 'Dev-Sanskriti' that binds the people of Kullu, and most of their rituals, ceremonies and even marriages are decided by the deities/devtas. No one can defy a deity's orders, or they will have to pay a heavy price for it unless pardoned. The massive response to Dussehra celebrations is due to fears that if they (people) don’t care to protect nature, respect the deities and adhere to their warning, Kullu and its people will not be safe, he added. Moreover, the local administration has also made better arrangements than in previous years. “This year's celebrations are certainly different,” Thakur said.
Aqil Khan, a media professional at Kullu, feels that Kullu Dussehra came after most farmers, orchardists and peasants had done harvesting their produce. The crowd was overwhelming and also highly enthusiastic, as most pictures and videos were also shown after the Rath Yatra. In fact, Kullu Dussehra doesn't mark the end of Vijayadashami, but the beginning of celebrations that go on for a week.
Despite Kullu witnessing massive destruction as a result of relentless rains, floods, landslides and washing away of major roads, including the Kullu-Manali highway and the century-old bridge at Oat on Beas, Kullu Dussehra got an overwhelming response. The pictures and viral videos of Lord Raghunath's Rath Yatra were breathtaking and mesmerising.
Witnessing a week-long festivity returned with pleasant memories of the frozen time, and paying my obeisance to 301 deities and Lord Raghunath was a rare opportunity indeed.
There is a generational change in Kullu Valley. Youths accompany most deities reaching for Dussehra as elders stay back at home. The advent of social media and digital technologies has attracted youths to make Instagram and Facebook accounts of their deities. Every day, they upload events from the Dussehra ground.
Bhenuj Thakur, a college student who handles social media accounts of local devta/deity, said every day they get 500 to 700 hits on Instagram and Facebook accounts. Many devotees who could not accompany are watching reels and live updates from the ground on all ceremonies and rituals being performed.
“Even those followers of the deity who are either in foreign countries or elsewhere in India are also connected with us through social media. This is helping us to promote Dev-Sanskriti beyond the boundaries of Kullu,” said Jagdish Sharma, an oracle (locally called Gurr) of a deity from Banjar (Kullu).
Kullu is also a gateway to another fascinating high-altitude valley of Lahaul-Spiti, also the land of Buddhist culture and Gompas. Kullu is also famous for its handloom and handicrafts such as authentic Kullu shawls, pure woollen socks, pulls (hemp-made slippers), caps (many varieties and colours), mufflers, jackets, and hand-knitted woollen wear.
Kullu can be reached by various modes of transportation. By air, the nearest airport is Bhuntar Airport (KUU), approximately a 1-hour drive from Kullu. Travelers can also reach Kullu by road, with regular bus services from nearby cities like Delhi and Chandigarh. Another option is by train to Joginder Nagar Railway Station, followed by a road journey. Private taxis and rental cars are available for hire.
