Intrigue In Stone: Decoding Sultan Garhi

While exploring Delhi's many narratives, I discovered a poignant difference between the tombs commissioned by mighty emperors and those built for saints and Sufis.

While grand mausoleums like Humayun's Tomb and Safdarjung's Tomb are tourist hotspots, the shrines of Sufi saints such as Nizamuddin Auliya and Khawaja Chisti draw devotees. Yet, Sultan Garhi in Delhi's Vasant Kunj blurs this narrative. Constructed in 1231 by Iltutmish to commemorate his son Nasiruddin Mahmud, Sultan Garhi stands unique as a place of worship and a historical relic. Intrigued by its dual identity, I ventured into a semi-wild region in South Delhi where it is located to unveil its mysteries.

Architectural Marvel

Sultan Garhi's architecture exudes strength akin to a fortress. Unlike many other tombs from the Islamic era, the square structure of the tomb features domed bastion towers at each corner but notably lacks a central dome. Constructed primarily with Delhi quartzite stone and adorned with white marble inscriptions later added by Feroz Shah Tughlaq, Sultan Garhi epitomises the finesse of medieval craftsmanship.

Its entrance leads to a courtyard featuring intricate collonaded cloisters and arched windows reminiscent of Sultanate-era architecture. At the heart of the complex lies a burial chamber housing the tombs of Nasiruddin Mahmud and two other sons of Iltutmish. Outside, a 14th-century mosque by Firoz Shah Tughlaq and a chhatri add to the site's allure, though time has reclaimed much of its grandeur.

Dual Identity

Visiting Sultan Garhi during Holi, I witnessed a vibrant spectacle unfolding—a congregation of devotees paying homage to a revered "pir," whose identity remains shrouded in mystery. I  later learned that locals flock to Sultan Garhi seeking blessings, particularly during Thursdays and festive occasions like Holi. The site mirrors the syncretic spirit of India, adorned with offerings that symbolise devotion and unity.

Historian and author Dr Chandni Sengupta has studied the monument's history extensively. She mentions in her research paper "Contextualising Sufi Rituals and Practices at a Non-Mazar Shrine of Delhi: A Case Study of the Tomb of Sultan Garhi," that Urs (a ceremony commemorating the death anniversary of a Sufi saint) is celebrated at the "dargah" at the end of September with pomp.

She says that while Muslims come to pray at the tomb, Hindu devotees often outnumber them.

The Enigmatic 'Pir'

History and coin enthusiast Shah Umair, known as "Sikkawala" on social media, believes the Sultan Garhi site has a fascinating backstory. He suggests it's linked to even older religious structures which showcase the area's diverse history.

Umair highlights how the tomb itself incorporates elements from earlier Hindu temples. He also points to the surrounding forest and the nearby Mahipalpur, named after a Tomar king who built a stepwell in the area. This, he argues, strengthens the evidence of Hindu structures predating the Sultan Garhi tomb. 

It was common for stepwells to be located in temples or on the outskirts of villages, which had significant social and religious significance.

While the origins of Sultan Garhi's spiritual nature remain obscure, the association of the figure of a "pir" is a very post-Independence phenomenon, he stated.

Getting There

The closest metro stations to Sultan Garhi Tomb, Vasant Kunj C-8 and ISIC Hospital (Verma Farm), are approximately 642 and 668 metres away, respectively, or about a nine-minute walk.

Address: G4MP+9R4, Garhi's Tomb Rd, Ruchi Vihar, Vasant Kunj, Delhi