Review: A Culinary Journey Through Italy With Chef Renato Bosco

Pizza in India has come a long way from just a couple of options. Remember the days when outlets like Domino's or Pizza Hut were the only way to experience pizza? Those were simpler times, but thankfully, the Indian pizza scene has exploded.

Pizza's global appeal reached India in 1996 when Domino's opened its first store in New Delhi. Soon after, Pizza Hut and others joined the party, offering a welcome change for busy Indians. This growth mirrored India's economic reforms in the 1990s, which opened the doors to foreign investment.

But the pizza story in India is no longer a tale of two giants. The Indian pizza market is expected to grow by nearly 10 per cent between 2024 and 2032, indicating a surge in pizza options. Take Sorrento, the Italian restaurant at Shangri-La Eros New Delhi, for example. They're not missing out on this exciting trend.

Recently, Sorrento hosted Italian chef Renato Bosco, known for his innovative take on Italian cuisine, for a food pop-up. The menu featured a selection of Chef Bosco's signature dishes. From the Mozzarella Di Pane, available in two flavours (Arrabbiata and Amatriciana), to the Pizza Al Padellino with classic options like Margherita, there was something for everyone.

The Food

Chef Renato—hailing from Verona, the Italian city where William Shakespeare set his "Romeo and Juliet"—took us on a tour of Italian cuisine. The appetiser selection impressed me. The Mozzarella Di Pane was elevated with the Arrabbiata version's addition of plump shrimp, creamy burrata, and a touch of pistachio. The Amatriciana sauce variant, rich and savoury with guanciale and a pecorino cheese fondue, was another winner.

The Gourmet Pizza section offered choices for both sweet and savoury lovers. The Ananas, with its mustard-marinated pineapple and prawns, was a bold but balanced combination. The 4 Cheese, with nuts and a touch of honey, pleased the cheese-loving companions on my table.

"My dough recipe comprises a blend of flour and water, balanced to achieve optimal lightness and elasticity. And to prepare my 'crunchy' and 'double crunchy' pizzas, I employ a method involving fermenting a 'preferment' with wild yeast and beer, a process carried out overnight within the controlled environment of my refrigerator. The next morning, I roll, pound, and stretch the dough into its final form, thereby imbuing it with its distinctive texture and flavour," said the 56-year-old chef.

Though I didn't delve into the pasta and risotto options, the pumpkin and gorgonzola risotto and the cacao paccheri with crab were both tempting. The lamb main course, with its luxurious black truffle pate and potato gratin, promised a decadent experience.

Finally, no meal is complete without dessert, and Chef Renato did not disappoint. The Maritozzo with Cream offered a delightful taste of tradition—a fluffy bun overflowing with light and creamy filling. For those seeking something a touch more decadent, the Coffee Shortcrust Pastry with Cinnamon and Apple provided the perfect ending. This warm pastry, infused with the aroma of coffee and cinnamon, cradled soft, caramelised apples for a truly satisfying finale.

Excerpts From Interview With Chef Renato

Did your travels to other countries, particularly India, influence your culinary creations in any way? If so, how?

It's wonderful to be here in India for the first time. While I'm eager to experience the flavours of Indian cuisine, my own cooking focuses on presenting classic Italian dishes in their authentic form. I believe there's beauty in the simplicity and tradition of regional Italian cooking, and I'm passionate about sharing that experience.

What local Indian ingredients, if any, are you incorporating into your Italian dishes for this pop-up, and how are they harmonising with the authentic Italian flavours?

In my culinary philosophy, I purposely avoid integrating local ingredients into my Italian creations to preserve authenticity. My goal is to present diners with an unadulterated Italian culinary journey, highlighting Italy's genuine flavours and ingredients without external influences. By staying true to tradition and exclusively utilising authentic components, I aim to craft dishes that seamlessly encapsulate the diverse tapestry of Italian tastes. This approach ensures that patrons can truly immerse themselves in the authentic essence of Italian cuisine, creating a dining experience that is both memorable and true to its origins.

What sets your pizza apart from the rest? Is there a specific dough-making technique, unique ingredients, or a personal philosophy that defines your pizza mastery?

What sets my pizza apart isn't just one element; it's a fusion of techniques and ingredients. This approach's core lies in a distinctive dough-mixing technique honed through years of dedicated innovation. I have pioneered leavened sweet doughs with sourdough, resulting in a unique flavour profile that delights the palate, especially when complemented with seasonal fruits.

Each pizza I create possesses its own character, shaped by factors such as form, texture, leavening, and cooking methods. This commitment to diversity ensures that every bite is a culinary journey, celebrating Italian pizza craftsmanship's extensive and rich tradition. For me, pizza transcends mere sustenance; it's a passion, a labour of love that brings people together. With each pizza I craft, I strive to infuse it with the essence of Italy, ensuring that every slice tells a story of tradition, innovation, and genuine affection.

What is one "secret ingredient" that you believe is essential for creating truly exceptional food?`

Throughout my culinary odyssey, I've embraced my three Ps: Pizza, Pane, and Passione. These pillars transcend mere ingredients or dishes; they embody a philosophy of steadfast dedication and a love for the culinary craft. Pizza symbolises innovation and creativity, Pane represents the fundamental aspects of bread-making, and Passione encapsulates the love and commitment I invest in every dish I bring to life.