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I believe the best way to fathom the pulse of a city is by exploring its local food—that is why I returned from San Francisco with a few extra kilos, not just in my luggage. Giving goodbye to its many Michelin-star restaurants, I delved into neighbourhoods that have evolved around immigrant communities and hold the key to its history and famed culinary traditions. The city is home to the oldest Chinatown in North America; the Mission Area's countless Mexican joints entice customers from far corners, and tantalising aromas of pizza wafting through the air at Little Italy's trattorias.
I was on a food tour, and our first stop was for tacos and burritos in this traditional home of the city's Hispanic community. With colourful murals that tell stories of its Latino identity, Victorian houses, great restaurants and lively bars that stand alongside old-school taquerias, the Mission is a thriving neighbourhood. The lines outside La Taqueria, which has a cult following, prove that good food (read Mexican) is worth waiting for. They probably have the most boastful tagline I've read: "The best tacos and burritos in the whole wide world."
Learning about the owner's journey, Miguel Jara, now on the other side of 80, was as captivating as making my way through the tacos and burritos. "I came to work in the United States in 1958, and after a few years, I opened a taco place. It's been 51 years, and we are still strong. My staff has become like my family," Jara told me as I chatted with him over the Mission-style burrito that comes without rice. La Taqueria has won fame for pioneering these. I had a bite and understood why – the cereal takes away from the flavour of the meat. As I left, I couldn't agree more with their tagline.
Visiting Mission Dolores Park is necessary, allowing you to soak in the neighbourhood's vibe. At all times of the day, one sees children playing and dogs running around while the highest point here affords sweeping views of the city's palm tree framed downtown. I walked to Tartine Bakery—yet another icon—and was engulfed by the sweet aroma of freshly baked buns and croissants. I opted for their most popular item, a sugar-topped morning bun that combines the delicate flavours of orange zest and cinnamon. It's flaky and soft. For those craving ice cream, Bi-Rite Creamery, which serves flavours like salted caramel, roasted banana, coffee toffee, and seasonal ones like balsamic strawberry, is the go-to place. It's within walking distance of Dolores Park, where I spotted many people savouring scoops while they relaxed.
Next in line was San Francisco's Italian neighbourhood, Little Italy, in the North Beach area. I headed to its most popular restaurant, Tony's Pizza Napoletana, which has bagged numerous awards since opening just 15 years ago.
The winners are the coal-fired pizzas that cook at 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. Tony was the first to bring that style to the West Coast and is the only one in California with a genuine coal fire oven that reaches that sizzling temperature. The New Yorker with mozzarella, pepperoni, sausage, ricotta, garlic and oregano was baked perfectly, with the pepperoni charred just right. I still dream of that pizza. Then I opted for another favourite, the Napolitana-style Margherita pizza, baked in a wood-fired oven at 900 degrees for less than a minute. The chewy dough and slightly scorched base is delicious. Most pizza ingredients are imported from Naples and Calabria in Italy. I washed all this down with local beer. I loved the vast green spaces just a short walk away. The Washington Square Park is where locals often head for a picnic in this district.
Nearly 175 years old, San Francisco's Chinatown was the first such neighbourhood in the United States and went on to inspire about 50 others in different cities. As I walked in through the eye-catching Dragon Gate, I was transported to a vibrant world of lively alleys strung with red lanterns and lined with time-tested eateries, bars and cafes that stand alongside quaint tea shops and stores selling souvenirs and condiments – all Chinese of course. Visitors flock here to tuck into the best Chinese food in town, fine-tuned over decades by family-run businesses.
I have a weakness for dim sums, so the first place I ticked off my list was House of Dim Sum, a bustling, casual eatery with a variety of Cantonese-style ones—shrimp, pork, chicken, and vegetarian ones like spinach and cilantro. They even have steamed buns, of which the pork one wins hands down. This place opens early for those looking to start their day with dim sums, baos, and dumplings, a staple breakfast item.
Another dish that made me weak in the knees was the Peking Duck – there's no better place than the Z & Y Peking Duck to sample this. Chef Lijun Han painstakingly prepares this over 48 hours; hence, it must be pre-ordered. I made the pancakes by slathering some sweet bean sauce, adding a few cucumbers and scallions on these rice paper wrappers and putting a generous portion of the duck. They, of course, have many other dishes, but for me, this one was the star of the table.
Chinatown has a vibe that is unlike any other place in the city. As I walked around, I was drawn to the scent of fresh fortune cookies. The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory churns out about 10,000 of these per day. Stepping inside, I was fascinated to see how a woman nimbly inserted the fortunes inside the hot and freshly baked cookies. They are available in a variety of flavours, like strawberry, chocolate, and green tea.
Blending history and some truly memorable food, these neighbourhoods bring this tech city alive. Now I know why some residents call them the soul of San Francisco.
Several airlines fly to San Francisco from the metro cities. Air India flies direct from New Delhi and Mumbai, and United Airlines has a daily non-stop flight to San Francisco.
You need a visitor visa to enter the United States of America.
The Jay is a great option with 360 rooms, some of which have a view of the bay. Beacon Grand is a lovely hotel apt for those who want to stay at Union Square.
