"If you eat our food with your eyes closed, that's India in your palette. But if you look at it, it's very modern. It's key to our ethos. We will never lose this authenticity."
Indeed, Michelin-starred Chef Vineet Bhatia justified every bit of his words. The essence of the food at the newly opened Ziya is rooted in traditional Indian flavours. Located at The Oberoi in Gurugram, the restaurant is a tribute to quintessential Indian dishes with a contemporary blend. Curating a special menu for journalists, the chef presented delicacies touching aspects like taste, presentation, health, and sustainability. Interestingly, the chic interiors and classic décor of the space set a precedent for a gastronomic lineup that was awaited.
The contained appearance of the restaurant might deceive you for lack of space, but once you make yourself comfortable, experience the meticulous planning behind this 50-seater place where each corner has a story to tell. A long silver-hued table placed in the centre will draw your attention, accentuated by the navy blue corners brushed with silver stripes. The décor has been kept minimal while ensuring that the vibe of a heritage Indian eatery whisks well, with a hint of haveli-like arches or a tall wooden entrance door resembling a royal Indian household. The striking lamppost-like structures on the communal table, alongside a sweeping view of the pool across the glass prism, add to the eclectic offerings at the restaurant.
The beautifully crafted floral brass plates will catch your eye as you grab seats and prompt you to take snapshots for an Instagram carousel. With the mélange of elements from modish windows to a metal plate, be prepared to be caught in a trail of picturesque clicks that will make your day.
It was time for us to relish the traditional Indian meals with a twist. Surpassing our expectations, this menu made us travel across the country with its pan-India touch. From a samosa chaat to a pan-grilled sambhar fish, the al la carte menu was an impressive reimagination of some classic Indian dishes. Seeking inspiration from the boulevards of Chandni Chowk, where lip-smacking street food is a hit, the chef told us how he wanted to bring a flavour of Purani Dilli to the cosmopolitan culture of Gurugram.
My favourite was the aloo toffee, whose paper-like texture, wafer-like crunch and potato-filling with an umami effect mesmerised me. Next, I tried India's most famous street offering, samosa, which was concocted with beetroot and other vegetable filling. To keep the street magic alive, the samosa was infused with anar chutney, ensuring a perfect fusion play of classic and contemporary.
Some other palate pleasers included a roasted cauliflower that brought in the taste of Rajasthan's Murgh Mussalam. It might give you an impression of Delhi's famous "Raj Kachori" at first glance. The tenderness of the toasted flower is a delight for any vegetarian looking for a hearty meal. Creamy almond kofta and mushroom pulao amazed me with their aftertaste — so delicious that each morsel felt wholesome.
The vibrant colours, jugalbandi of ingredients and handcrafted ashets added to this extravagant food experience where locally sourced ingredients were pivotal to the Michelin-starred chef's menu. "We try to do as much local sourcing as possible. There are a few things that come from outside. Most of our ingredients, even the dishware like ceramic or brass utensils, have been locally sourced from the farms and markets around here," he told OT.
The joy of having a scrumptious bite and picking a favourite would be unjust to this culinary gala, which celebrated heritage dishes with a modern flair. More so, the presentation, Instragammable décor, thoughtfully handpicked dishes, and chrome furnishings were a delight to the eyes. And that's not all! Sign-off on a tangy-sweet note with Ziya's Jamun Ras cocktail, a refreshing treat for the taste buds. And, of course, the chef's special Mango Malai and Kulfi Falooda cheesecake to leave on a "sweet note."
Where: Ziya, The Oberoi, 443, Udyog Vihar, Phase V, Gurugram
When: The restaurant opens between 12:30 pm to 03:00 pm and 07:00 pm to 11:00 pm from Monday to Thursday. From Friday-Sunday, it only opens between 07:00 pm and 11:00 pm.
Meal for two: (Approximately) INR 9,000, excluding taxes and alcohol