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Niharika Singh Dalal, a PADI-certified rescue diver and an off-road enthusiast, embarked on a remarkable journey from Gurgaon to Leh to participate in the Ladakh Marathon. Arriving days in advance to acclimatise to the altitude, she was determined to bring along her loyal Golden Retriever, Theia Singh Thomas. Dalal and Theia hope to make this trip a yearly pilgrimage.
At three in the morning, I woke up to a quiet house. The suitcases were packed, and all that remained was to pack my two-year-old Golden Retriever Theia's favourite stuffed toy, Doggo. Doggo is a plush Golden Retriever that Theia sleeps beside every night and carries with her for comfort. This morning, we were leaving Gurgaon for Leh. I have been participating in the Ladakh Marathon since last year, and runners are expected to arrive in Leh a week ahead of time to acclimate. I had booked my flights for the marathon four months in advance; however, I decided to cancel them because I now had the privilege of driving Princess Theia with me.
We loaded two suitcases for myself, one for Theia, two backpacks for me, one for Theia, and a bag full of snacks. After saying goodbye to Theia's father, we drove off to pick up our friend, who would be my co-pilot for the journey. We would be away from home for 20 days, with 10 of those days without my husband, who would join us later in Leh for the Outback Festival.
Gurgaon at 5 am in September can be quite daunting. We turned on the GPS to locate our friend Sam's place, only to realise that our off-roading adventure had already begun, with rainwater creating mini lakes right in front of his condo. It was the perfect start to what promised to be an adventurous journey.
We planned to arrive in Leh in three days for better acclimatisation. Our first stop of the day was going to be Manali. Manali has been in the news since last year due to the devastating floods caused by the previous monsoon. Roads were washed out, and mountain streams turned into aggressive rivers. A week before our departure, the news reported heavy rainfall in the Manali area. However, after completing several expeditions with my mentors from Xplorearth, I have learned that it is always better to ask a local than rely solely on news reports.
So I contacted our friend Sneh, who runs a lovely stay in Manali with her husband Godwin called Ride Inn. Ride Inn would also serve as our overnight accommodation. She informed me that there was turbulence in the rivers and nearby villages. However, the road from Manali to Leh was perfectly safe to travel on. Sneh had warned us that rain clouds would begin to form over Manali as evening approached, so we should try to arrive before sundown. Fortunately, we made good time and parked our truck at Ride Inn by 6 pm.
Sneh and Godwin consistently go above and beyond to make us feel at home; in fact, I would say they spoil us. Ride Inn has a warm and inviting atmosphere, and the staff are attentive to Theia. The next morning, Pawan, a member of their team, spent about 20 minutes playing with Theia. They seemed delighted as Theia transformed into a tiny rocket, racing around the dining area because she had the zoomies.
Our next destination was Jispa, just a two-hour drive from Manali. We took it easy, enjoying a leisurely drive to Gemoor Khar. We had a lovely stay in Jispa village, a place Theia and I had visited several times during our previous expeditions, especially while following her father's motorcycle. I particularly enjoyed the journey from the Atal Tunnel to Tandi. It felt as if the Chandra River was racing alongside our truck to Tandi. I hadn’t had much time on past expeditions to take in the scenery; it was always about moving quickly. But this time was different—everything was slow and relaxing. I kept reflecting on how I had overlooked Sissu for so many years, and now she was breathtaking. It reminded me of a novel set in a small Himachal village surrounded by majestic mountains.
We arrived in Gemoor Khar, Jispa, in the early afternoon, which delighted me because I knew the next day would be lengthy. I wanted to rest since I was still apprehensive about the weather at Baralacha La.
Jispa is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful villages in Himachal Pradesh. Located at an altitude of 10,500 feet, it serves as an excellent spot to acclimate before hiking the passes to Leh. This picturesque village is situated along the banks of the Bhaga River, surrounded by majestic mountains and snow-capped peaks. After the monsoon season, it resembles a miniature Christmas village, with lush green pine trees adorning the landscape. The entire village is filled with a delightful, pine-scented aroma reminiscent of Christmas. The stunning view from Gemoor Khar, combined with their delicious ginger-honey-lemon tea, creates a truly enchanting experience.
Being in Jispa always calms my nerves. However, I was concerned about the journey from Jispa to Leh this time. A friend warned me about the 'Pagal Nala' (Mad Stream) that appears before the Ghata Loops. She mentioned that the recent rains had made it more treacherous than usual and that we might be delayed at the Darcha checkpoint if the weather conditions were too dangerous.
I once waited with fellow explorers at the Darcha checkpoint for four to five hours before the barricade finally opened at 2 pm. After that, we had to drive for twelve hours to reach Leh. Driving in the mountains at night with a dog is not my favourite activity. I remember arriving at Tanglang La around 10 pm. when my late Labrador, Rio, needed to pee. I parked my car on the pass and took him for a walk in the snow at -1 degrees Celsius. It sounds magical, but when you’re weary and sleepy, being on a mountain pass at that time can feel like a nightmare. All the other vehicles and riders had moved on, and our support vehicle was far behind. Rio and I were the only ones at Tanglang La, surrounded by the whispering winds from the mountains, with our car headlights keeping watch over us.
I hoped we wouldn't have to relive an action replay from the same night. If things got tough, I believed we could handle it. However, I wanted to navigate all the passes during the daylight. Additionally, we didn't have any other explorers or a backup car this time. I was crossing my fingers that we wouldn't have to watch an action replay from the same night. If the going got tough, we'd make it. But I wanted to traverse all of the passes in daylight. Also, we didn't have any other explorers or a backup car this time.
We decided to leave Jispa at 6:30 am for Leh. Google had estimated our journey to take nine hours. However, with breaks for biological needs and a lunch stop, the total travel time would be roughly 11 to 12 hours. I woke up at 5 am to the sound of Theia snoring beside me. Ma’am didn’t wake until I dressed and gently roused her at 5:45 am. She wasn’t pleased and shot me a dirty glare while still wrapped in her quilt. However, as soon as I picked up the backpacks, she jumped out of bed as if she had been ready all along, and I was simply delaying her.
The staff at Gemoor Khar were incredibly kind. They packed our breakfast and prepared ginger lemon tea for us. Theia's chicken and vegetable breakfast was served as we prayed for good weather on the mountain passes.
As we approached Darcha, I felt a great sense of relief.
Until this moment, I hadn't realised that I didn't have Omi Bhaiya's truck (Xplorearth) as a support vehicle behind us. If my truck broke down, the three of us would have to handle everything ourselves—a situation I had never faced before. Although Vijay (my husband) had given me a crash course in changing the tyre on the Isuzu and demonstrated how to get the spare tyre out, I could only check the levels of all the engine fluids and replace a flat. If the Isuzu broke down, I wouldn't know how to handle it. I must admit, I really missed Xplorearth, especially the radio we used to relay information.
Darcha was a delightful surprise. There was no traffic, making for a pleasant start to my day that put a smile on my face. It was a bright, sunny day with only a few trucks around, all parked on the same side of the road. Either it was too early for them, or someone up there heard my pleas. Even the "paagal nala" was kind to us; it had transformed into just an eccentric stream—broken and requiring some off-roading but not at all aggressive.
Baralacha La was in the best mood I had ever seen him in. This mountain pass, standing at 15,910 feet, can be temperamental. In the past, it has always been grumpy, cold, or congested with huge trucks. However, this time, it was cheerful and sunny. We took our first break here. Theia jumped out and made her mark on the pass with a considerable pee, claiming her rightful place on the pass. I never imagined that Baralacha La could be this friendly or handsome, especially with sun rays scattered all over the mountains. This moment felt straight out of a movie. From then on, I thought the journey would be smooth, but I spoke too soon.
We ate our enormous packed breakfast while driving slowly towards Nakee La Pass. I had missed her on all of my previous drives to Leh. I'm so pleased I made it a point to drive slowly towards Nakee La.
This time, I discovered the Bottle Baba shrine, also known as the Ghosts of Ghata Loop. The ghosts are claimed to be of a truck driver and his helper. A snowfall left them stuck on a hairpin just before Nakee La pass. The storm was so fierce that it compelled the passes to be closed. The poor men were stuck for many days alone without any help, food or water and eventually surrendered their lives to the mountains. On a hairpin towards Nakee La is a brick temple surrounded by water bottles. They say that the driver's and helper's skeletal remains are kept inside the temple, and travellers leave water behind for the ghosts.
Even on Nakee La pass, there are stacks and stacks of wish stones. Some say they’re for the ghosts and to wish for good weather. We didn’t get down at the pass because my retriever would have looked at the stacks of stones and thought she was in a bowling alley. She would have hit 12 strikes in a row. Also, without a backup vehicle, I didn’t want to take a chance of annoying any of the ghosts.
I made the right choice because the weather was pleasant the entire way to Kiang Chu Thang, also known as Moray Plains. Moray Plains never disappoints. They're always inviting and beautiful to drive through. However, the road between Sarchu and Pang is absolutely gorgeous in its own way. We decided to take a break in Moray Plains. It sounded like a great idea to let Theia wander around the meadow. But all she wanted to do was follow each car that passed us by. As a result, her mother had a few minor heart arrests.
After a ten-minute walk and more hydration, we set off for Tanglang La. I was overjoyed that we were approaching it in daylight. Following that one-night trek on this pass with Rio, I'll always want to leave her before sunset.
Tanglang La makes me think of my boy Rio, whom I miss every day. He would have despised having a younger sibling and having to share his parents. But I believe he guides Theia. From a farm puppy, she has grown into an excellent travel dog.
Tanglang La, at 17,480 feet, is one of the highest passes in the world. Despite this, I believe she is a kind soul. She has never been a hindrance on our path. In fact, I believe she protects those who pass her by. But that's just how I feel.
I wasn't feeling well as we approached the summit for some strange reason. We took some photos, and after strolling Theia, I felt a little uneasy. I drank some milk coffee at the café on the pass, which may not have sat well because as soon as we descended the pass, I had to stop the car and vomit. I had a lot of water and walked it off. I knew I had three hours of driving ahead of me. So, this was not the moment to be embarrassed. I informed my shotgun that I was not at my best and would be driving slower for a while. He seemed fine with it but offered me a mint before I took the wheel.
The weather was still bright and beautiful. But I was nursing a severe belly ache, which I was concealing under the guise of enjoying the scenery in solitude. We finally received some network at Rumtse (a village near Leh) and were able to notify my husband that we were okay. I was feeling terrible, and I didn't want to bother him.
Finally, we made it to Leh in 12 hours. Putting aside how ill I felt, I felt thrilled and relieved that the journey went so smoothly. I couldn't help but praise the stars and mountains, especially since there was no support vehicle behind us. It was one of those 'Ki ki so so lha gyal lo' moments. It's the Ladakh Scouts' slogan, which Xplorearth had introduced me to.
The prayer 'Ki ki so so lha gyal lo' is recited by Tibetans at the summit of a mountain pass. It might be translated as 'victory for the gods'. The Tibetans believe these high mountain passages are where the Gods fight with the evil Gods. Offering these prayers along mountain passes is especially beneficial because the strong winds are thought to help carry the requests.
Personally, I believe it is a prayer of gratitude to the mountains for allowing us to climb on top of them and safely descend.
