Here's How Samrat Som's 'Romance With Bikes' Made Him A Traveller
"My relationship with motorcycling is a romantic one," said Samrat Som. Underlining that he prefers to be addressed as a motorcyclist over a biker, Som likes the idea of a motorcycle that is classic in its looks, capable of doing the job, not being too powerful, and becoming an ally in a journey as inward as it is outside.
As a kid who grew up in the 70s and 80s, Som was influenced by stories of uncharted trails. He realised that self-reliance was pivotal to exploring an undiscovered terrain and that one had to know the machine to discover the road not taken. Then, with the help of some friends who were already riding long distances on their Royal Enfields, Som’s love for motorcycles grew more profound, and it was about ten years ago when he started riding long distances. There hasn’t been any stopping since then.
Motorcycling has made him more of a traveller than a tourist. He believes that overland travel makes one meet people in a different way than flying in and out of a place. Distinguishing overland travels by car and a bike, Som said the former confines the one in a bubble, as they step out only to pick up supplies and fuel. However, in motorcycling, one can’t escape the heat, wind, and rain, making them realise how little we need.
Taking time from his ongoing solo expedition to Colombia, Som spoke with us about his journey across the South American roads and his “romance with motorcycles.”
Can you highlight some of your significant biking achievements or memorable experiences on the road?
It is tough to pick one out because each one is special for its reasons. One of the most memorable ones had to be the ride to Lo Manthang in the upper Mustang district in Nepal. In 2019, the tarmac quickly disappeared into muddy sections & then it was all gravels, sandy inclines and descents, and rocky riverbeds.
Riding through the shadows of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges was captivating, with marvelling at the caves on adobe walls where Buddhist monks once lived. The journey included traversing the sparse, arid lunar landscape and navigating through one of the deepest river gorges globally, all while climbing breathtaking heights within the same day.
Upon reaching Lo Manthang, altitude sickness hit me. Nevertheless, the core of rides like these lies in companionship and the unfolding stories. Another memorable journey took me through Portugal, where, despite avoiding significant highways, the generally good roads led us through fogs and clouds with limited visibility. It was just the two of us without backup, exploring small villages and towns, securing last-minute accommodations, and delving into local history and culture.
Currently, I am on a solo ride through Colombia, a diverse and captivating country. It stands out as one of the most varied nations globally, encompassing terrain, people, flora-fauna, and culture. Embarking on a solo journey across borders demands a different level of research and preparation. The overarching idea is to explore as much of South America as possible, but we can discuss it further as I progress through more regions.
What has been the most challenging biking experience you have faced so far, and how did you overcome it?
Riding can be physically quite demanding. Especially off the paved road, on the dirt, loose gravel, grassy or rocky trails. Motorcycling, like any pursuit, requires skill development and comes with inherent challenges. The potential for inconvenience, such as dropping the motorcycle or damaging equipment, adds an extra layer. Unlike activities like running or tennis, there's a risk of serious injury at the higher end. The essence of enjoyment lies in the intersection of one's abilities and challenges.
The ride to Lo Manthang stands out as the most physically challenging. Limited skills and shaky confidence made the rocky terrain formidable. I am enthusiastically attempting techniques seen in videos that led to falls and frustration. The experience highlighted the importance of connecting with the motorcycle and the surface below, using the core, and remaining relaxed. Riding with experienced riders provided valuable tips and encouragement, emphasising the need to flirt with one's limits for enjoyment. Riding solo across a foreign country adds a different challenge, testing ingenuity and perseverance while delving into the purpose of the journey.
Many bikers enjoy customising their rides. Have you customised your bike(s) to match a destination's terrain, and if so, what modifications have you made?
No, not really. Before I rode alone from Delhi in 2021 through Gwalior, Orchha, Aurangabad, Ajanta, Ellora, Pune, along the Maharashtra coast to Goa and then inwards to Bengaluru, I made some minor modifications to my Interceptor. I added risers to the handlebar and changed the foot-peg position with the help of a kit made by Greasehouse, Indimotard. This is available as a touring kit, but the Interceptor stock setup was a bit sporty for me anyway. The foot-pegs were set a little further back than I'd like even on a roadster, so I got it changed & never changed them back. So, I can't say it was for a particular ride or terrain.
I have also added lever guards and a luggage frame for my Himalayan for my current ride. This was essential for the six months of travel that I had planned. But besides these, there are no significant modifications.
What factors do you consider when planning a road trip, and do you have any tips for others planning similar adventures?
Planning a trip is at least half as much fun. The most crucial aspect of a motorcycle trip is its purpose. Is it about testing riding skills in challenging terrain, exploring a new place with like-minded strangers, experiencing nature alone or with friends, camping in the wild, immersing in a new culture, retracing history, or pushing a particular machine to its limits? These purposes aren't mutually exclusive; one might want to pursue multiple on a single trip.
It could also be that I don't know and want to embark on an indefinite journey, following the wind without a specific agenda. Everything else—route, time, choice of motorcycle, gear, tools, spares, tent—becomes more precise with a defined purpose. My only suggestion is to acknowledge that motorcycle trips can be solitary, so packing something for connection, be it a board game, cards, or stories, can enhance the experience unless I prefer evenings spent drinking and editing pictures for social media.
How does biking culture vary from country to country, and are there any destinations that left a lasting impression on you?
Of course, it does. It depends on the socio-economic condition of the country, and consequently on history as well. The developed world has more resources and infrastructure, bringing a certain homogeneity in motorcycles, accessories, and even how motorcyclists dress. On the other hand, the countries in the developing parts of the world are more diverse in their approaches to machines and all the other bits that help them express this side of their personalities.
I don't favour the typical American motorcycle culture shaped by long freeways and big cruisers/choppers. It became a parody of the 20th-century biker aesthetic. I prefer the British motorcycling culture with its deep sense of style, embraced by riders and motorcycles. Rockers, Mods, and contemporary artists and designers like Nick Clements and Conrad Leach contribute to shaping the culture. Despite the decline of the British motorcycle industry, the love for motorcycling culture persisted, leading to a balanced sub-culture. I also appreciate Indonesia's diverse motorcycling culture, extending beyond big bikes. People customise small commuter motorcycles, inspiring clothing labels, making motorcycles a significant part of societal expression and journeys.
Do you prefer solo biking adventures or travelling in a group? What are the advantages and challenges of each approach?
I believe that I am pretty easygoing, so it doesn't affect me a whole lot. I don't prefer large groups. The preference for group size in motorcycle rides reflects the historical evolution of human organisation. Large groups offer safety, cost-sharing benefits, and affordability of support facilities. However, they can be relatively slow and less flexible. Solo or two-person rides provide maximum flexibility but are more expensive and lack backup and safety measures.
Riders often transition from larger groups to smaller ones as they gain confidence in their abilities. The challenges of navigating the Guajira Desert in Colombia highlight the need for local guides and support, making group rides a more cost-effective option. The ideal group size is around six to ten members, balancing support facilities and flexibility. Effective tour leads are crucial in ensuring a successful and enjoyable ride.
What are the must-have travel essentials for bikers on the road?
Helmet, gloves and preferably protective high-ankle motorcycle shoes. Protective clothing is essential, but I have seen people riding without it. Worse, I used to ride in my jeans and sneakers. And it is a matter of choice and philosophy. If you don't ride with all the gear every day, then it is not inconceivable that you would approach a long-distance ride as the sum of multiple small sections of a city ride. But full gear is essential because reaction times are less at higher speeds on the highways, even though we don't realise this. The right gear for the right weather is necessary. A rain jacket, even if rain is not in the forecast. A personal water filter, a smile and a sense of gratitude.
Do you face any infrastructure-related concerns on Indian roads and want the government to work on them?
Indian highways are notorious for their lack of implementation of rules. People and cattle cross from anywhere and everywhere. That needs to be fixed. But even more than that, people driving and riding on the wrong side of the road with impunity must be stopped. This has to be the single main reason for highway accidents. More clean public toilet facilities along the highways would be great.
