The sleepy village of Marottichal in the Thrissur district of Kerala is a famous monsoon destination due to its numerous waterfalls and lush forests. But did you know that this place is also fondly referred to as “the chess village of India?” In fact, the game has been instrumental in reviving a town that was grappling with alcoholism and illicit gambling for decades.
Here’s the story of how chess transformed the life and reputation of a quaint village in India.
In the early 1960s, Marottichal villagers were struggling with rampant alcohol addiction that was leading to severe societal issues like domestic violence. C Unnikrishnan, a local tea shop owner who had learnt to play chess while living in the nearby town of Kallur, began teaching the 1,000-year-old board game to his customers in a bid to divert their attention from alcohol towards a more meaningful pursuit.
Despite the limited resources, the residents of Marottichal started to embrace chess. They became engrossed in the intricate world of the 64-square chessboard, which soon became a symbol of hope and aspiration in their lives. As the game spread across the village, it served as a catalyst for profound social change, turning the village into a model of sobriety and intellectual pursuit. Families, once torn apart by addiction, started to play chess together.
Today, it is said that nearly 90 per cent of Marottichal’s population are chess players, with Unnikrishnan said to have trained at least 700 people himself. The URF Asian Records recognised Marottichal village with the “most number of people playing chess” award when more than 1,000 players from the village played the game in one day. Due to its burnished international reputation, it is not unheard of for overseas tourists to come to Marottichal specifically to play chess and improve their game.
The game shows no sign of dying down in the 21st century. Younger villagers have started to play chess online on their smartphones, showing that their interest in the game hasn’t waned despite the rise of digital technologies.
Situated just 9.1 kilometres from Marottichal village, the Peechi Dam is a favourite of picnickers thanks to boating experiences at the reservoir, its scenic garden and proximity to the Peechi-Vazhani Wildlife Sanctuary. Sprawling over 125 square kilometres, the sanctuary is part of the Palapilli-Nelliampathy forests and forms the northern boundary of the Chimmini Wildlife Sanctuary. The highest point here is the 923-metre-high Ponmudi, which offers an excellent view of the valley. There are more than 50 different kinds of orchids, exotic medicinal plants and over 25 species of mammals including leopards, tigers, sambar, Indian bison and Asian elephants here.
There are two popular waterfalls in Marottichal: the Olakkayam Waterfalls and the Ilanjippara Waterfalls. The Ilanjippara Waterfall is the larger of the two, and reaching it requires navigating through lush forests. Both waterfalls offer plenty of bathing and swimming opportunities for visitors. It is best to check with the villagers on how to proceed to Olakkayam and Ilanjippara, and the right season in which to do so.
The Thrissur Railway Station (TCR) is 20 kilometres from Marottichal village. The nearest airport is Cochin International Airport (COK), 50 kilometres away.