Food, Farmers, And The Future: Sunita Narain Explores Sustainable Eating In Her New Book
To say that Indians love their food would be a gross understatement. Whether we are tucking into Hyderabadi biryani, a masala dosa or any of the varieties of street food like chaat and vada pav, we eat not only to satisfy our taste buds and hunger but also to connect with others and reinforce our cultural identities. But will the foods we love outlast a climate crisis that is disrupting our agricultural system and impacting the nutrients and flavour profiles of the crops we grow?
A new book by the Centre for Science and Environment (CSE) demonstrates how the colours, flavours and joys of eating locally-grown dishes goes hand in hand with preserving the ecology and biodiversity of the regions where they are grown. “First Food: Future of Taste” showcases over 100 recipes from across India so that readers can learn how to cook nourishing and delicious three-course meals to be served alongside tasty drinks and chutneys.
We spoke with Sunita Narain, director general of the CSE and editor of Down to Earth magazine who presided over the creation of the book, on the challenges of making our agricultural systems more climate-resilient, how changing your diet can impact farmer incomes, and the future of veganism.
Should we reassess the Green Revolution’s impact in light of the biodiversity loss and climate breakdown?
There is already a push towards agroecological practices such as organic farming and climate-resilient agriculture in the country. Millets, which are water-prudent, have been promoted, too. Farmers are also taking up natural or zero-budget farming. These farming methods can be as productive as conventional farming if practised correctly. CSE has been promoting the inclusion of more biodiversity on the plate to increase resilience to crop failure, disasters and climate change. The four volumes in the First Food series provide individuals with ways to include biodiversity on their plate.
What are the barriers to overhauling our present agricultural system in order to benefit the living planet?
Modern cultivation systems rely heavily on farm machinery, and changing to a more labour-intensive system might be difficult. In the case of biodiversity-based foods, over the last few decades, we have not invested in preserving the knowledge of how these ingredients could be used as food. Efforts have not been made to protect the local environments/niches where this biodiversity thrives. Additionally, the seeds and planting materials needed to include these ingredients in the fields are unavailable.
What practical actions can we take to signal to farmers to change what they grow?
Increasing the demand for food is the biggest signal for the farmer. The popularity of millet is a clear example of this. There are specialised markets across Delhi that sell ingredients from different states. These establishments exist because demand can drive businesses. Over the recent years, we have seen ingredients such as lettuce, rocket, quinoa, moringa, sabja, and chia become popular in the country as they became global fads. What we need to do is push local ingredients in the same way.
Farmers are taking up natural or zero budget farming. These farming methods can be as productive as conventional farming if practiced correctly
How can we make millets more affordable to consumers while benefiting their growers financially and materially?
We're fortunate to maintain a culture that embraces millets in our diet, which is evident in festivals and exclusive recipes. However, over the past 50 years, reliance on major grains like wheat and rice has marginalised millets.
Lack of technological investment in harvesting and processing, relying on antiquated methods, exacerbates this decline. To mainstream millets, this must change. Moreover, insufficient high-quality seeds hinder increased production. Addressing these challenges, the government should support millet farmers, possibly by integrating millets into public distribution systems or school meals for guaranteed market access.
Do you see a future for veganism in this country?
Veganism is one of the one of the many emerging fads and diets that have become popular across the globe. A lot of Indian food is vegan and the shift is easy. Practitioners would be the best judge of whether veganism works for them or not.
