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Having just arrived, I sit nursing a chilled lager in the charming, leafy garden setting of my resort. The riverside view is straight out of a storybook. My late afternoon reverie is rudely shaken just once in a while by passing longtail boats carrying cheery tourists along the lazy length of the river. I’m happy to simply escape the giddiness of Bangkok. But, while I sit back and take in the scenic, riverside vibes, I cannot help but feel the niggling, raw reality of history rearing its ugly head as a reminder of the past.
During World War 2, it was this very place that became the centre of the gruesome assignment of the Allied prisoners of war (POWs) and Asian labourers, who were tasked to build a rail route from Thailand to Burma. This backbreaking journey was chronicled in the book and, later, the movie The Bridge On The River Kwai.
Beyond the veil of a dark past, Kanchanaburi is becoming an increasingly thriving hub for those who wish to get away from the frenetic pace of Bangkok. The unhurried pace of the place is hard to resist, after all. We spend a full day immersing in the enthralling treasures of this province.
Here is a list of things we did that can be a bucket list of must-dos on a 24-hour trip to Kanchanaburi.
The beautiful Erawan National Park is home to the multi-tiered Erawan Falls. We trekked up all 7-tiers, pausing to take in sweeping views dotted with emerald green ponds and wrapped by deciduous forests early one morning. Clambering up a slippery incline via a clutch of steep stairways, we noticed that the path upward becomes increasingly more arduous from Point 4 upwards.
After the Falls, we drive to the Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre and Memorial Walking Trail, inaugurated in 1998. This trail commemorates all those whose lives (roughly 90,000 labourers and 12,000 Prisoners of War) faded away in the making of the Death Railway, constructed during the Second World War to connect Thailand and Burma. Hellfire Pass is where the railway needed to cut through the mountain.
Situated near the Death Railway, Krasae Cave is a deep portal filled with an air of reassuring peace. As one enters the deep, dark, cavernous caves, the shining bronze Buddha statue with a beatific smile almost seems to dissipate the darkness of the mood. Jasmine garlands, incense, and offerings add their own sacred touch to this place of worship, which holds the telltale signs of early human history.
Step onto the other side and take in the adrenaline-spiking views as the railway tracks snake precipitously between the river and steep cliffs. Even today, the train passes onto this track, offering both shivers and breathtaking views of the passing river and villages below. We have now piled onto the Death Railway or the Siam-Burma Railway. As the train blared its horns and entered the station, there was a sudden shift in the vibe. After all, a train ride is almost always reminiscent of one’s childhood. From Namtok, one passes through a flurry of breathtaking views breezing past. Little villages, farmlands and forests scud past and the gently flowing River Khwai completes the scenery.
A visit to the War Cemetery is a befitting homage to those laid to rest here; nearly half British, the remaining from Australia and the Netherlands. It is a poignant stopover, and we stop to appreciate the immaculate maintenance by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
On's Thai Issan is the perfect place to stop for a late-ish Pad Thai. Simple and delicious vegan food served in a humble setting under the watch of the owner is the best way to enjoy authentic local food on a day about town. The stir-fried pumpkin and the papaya salad are not to be missed!
We start our half-hour journey towards the famous Wat Tham Suea on a hilltop. This magnificent temple reflects splendid Thai-Chinese designs and houses a remarkable 18-metre high Buddha draped in golden mosaic. To get to Wat, one must walk through a labyrinth of shops and eateries and climb the big flight of colourful stairs. An alternative is to take the cable car up for 10 baht. The view from the top of the temple is a stunning 360-degree sweep of green farmlands and is worth the trudging up. The architecture of the temple top is exquisitely ornate. The Chinese-style temple next door is Wat Tham Khao Noi, which deserves a quick stop.
We start our drive back into the city, contemplating where it is that such a high-energy day could be summed up.
Returning to the city, it’s just about right that the evening ended in a crescendo. We wind up for drinks and a heady dose of music at Sugar Member, a curious backpacker’s bar with a reggae theme and loads of character. The music and vibe are roused and the perfect way to amp up the energy. Quite possibly the liveliest place in touch, the bar has a pool table, inexpensive drinks and very friendly staff.
