Holding a rodent was the last thing on my mind as I planned a trip to Cambodia with my friends. Looking back at my photos, one of my favourites is one where I am beaming at the camera, cradling a rodent called Glen in my arms. It was edging closer to noon, and as the heat was creeping up, so were the excitement levels at the APOPO Centre–a global humanitarian non-profit NGO in Siem Reap–as visitors waited for their turn to hold the rodents and get clicked. Far from a gimmick, this human interaction is an integral part of the rodent's training.
Rodents enjoy celebrity status at APOPO, and for good measure. Along with an expert team of human handlers, each of the 43 African giant pouched rats known as HeroRATs is trained to search for landmines and other explosive remnants of war.
As per Landmine Monitor, Cambodia tops the list of the most mine-affected countries in the world. Landmines were planted across the country under the brutal Khmer Rouge regime that held Cambodia in its grip from 1975 to 1979 and the civil war that ensued following the regime's collapse. Long after the war ended and normalcy returned, landmines wreaked havoc on thousands across the country and continue to be a looming threat, although a diminished one due to efforts of organisations like the APOPO.
In 2014, APOPO began operations in collaboration with the Cambodia Mine Action Center to rid the country of landmines. Clearing landmines with a metal detector is highly time-consuming and inefficient. Low-weight rodents, when trained, can clear areas at far greater speeds and with better accuracy. Our guide proudly tells us that a rodent can clear an area the size of a tennis court in 30 minutes, which would take up to four days with a metal detector.
Before the photos, we gather around a square patch to watch a pair of handlers release a rodent wearing a harness. The rodent set off across the patch with its nose pressed to the ground, purposefully sniffing the area. Trained through regular positive reinforcement, rodents only pick up on scents of TNT explosives and nothing else. Their sense of smell is so developed that they can smell up to one trillion grams of TNT. As we watch, the rodent sniffs out a hidden explosive, earning a reward from one of the handlers.
One of APOPO's HeroRATs, Magawa, went on to gain international fame when the UK veterinary charity PDSA awarded him a gold medal for his exemplary work in clearing over 100 landmines in his lifetime.
Landmines not only take lives but also decimate livelihoods by turning fertile farmlands into no-go territory. To date, 5956 hectares of land have been cleared of explosives. This is significant, considering that many people in Cambodia rely on farming as a livelihood. Unsuspecting children often fall prey while out playing, attracted to exposed mines and explosives. In some areas, the problem is so acute that people are afraid to go out to the fields or even allow their children to walk to school.
Besides cleaning the land, APOPO also conducts crucial mine risk education in villages, raising awareness about threats and how to report them to authorities through outreach programmes, leaflets and posters.
According to the APOPO website, 40,000 people have lost a limb, making Cambodia a country with one of the highest numbers of amputees per capita. APOPO works with local authorities to ensure victims get the treatment they need, whether physical or psychological.
The APOPO visitor centre close to the Angkor Wat temple complex helps spread awareness about the widespread landmine problem and how it's being tackled. It also brings in crucial funds to sustain their operations.
Visitors can tour the centre, grab a bite at the onsite cafe, buy quirky HeroRAT souvenirs and even adopt a rodent. I couldn't leave without doing so, and I am now the proud co-adoptee of Ronin, an 11.75kg rodent described as hardworking, friendly, and relaxed. A monthly newsletter keeps me updated about Ronin's well-being and achievements. With a target of eliminating landmines in Cambodia by 2025, APOPO has lofty targets to meet, and every visitor who walks in through the door of their centre edges them closer to achieving this.