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Once every year, a masked and costumed man makes his way around a small town in Slovenia. He wears sheepskin and cowbells around his waist that announce his dancing presence from a long way off. He is the harbinger of spring and happiness and tasked with chasing away evil (the cold/ winter). This is the kurent, a mythical horned figure, and just one of the fascinating aspects of the beautiful town of Ptuj.
The oldest town in Slovenia, Ptuj is a charming place. It is typically European in that it has a castle on a hill, and a main square and church and cobblestoned streets harking back to Roman times. Ptuj is set by the banks of the Drava River and in a wine-growing region. In Slovenia, it loses out to more popular places like the capital, Ljubljana and Bled. On my first visit there, I realised that small is truly beautiful.
The first thing I learn in Ptuj is that this seemingly sleepy town loves its festivals. “We have celebrations throughout the year,” is the first thing I hear at the tourist information centre. It’s a fact that is reiterated by Simona Cvetko, my guide at Kurenti House. One of the town’s newer museums, the Kurenti House is where I get a deeper understanding of the kurent, and why Kurentovanje is their most popular carnival/festival.
And Ptuj does love its festivals. Simona points to a calendar as proof and right, enough, this tiny town of 20,000 people has festivals spread through the year, across four seasons—spring, summer, autumn and winter. Summer, unsurprisingly, has the most festivals.
The cobble-stoned streets, houses, squares and even the castle become the backdrop for music, theatre, poetry, and street performances. There are folklore and fairytale evenings for adults, opera nights, a craft beer festival, Roman Poetovio that sees the reenactment of two thousand-year-old Roman stories from history, and a mediaeval fair that includes castle games.
It is not surprising then that the Ptuj Castle is the heart of this town. It is difficult to miss; every turn offers you a distinct view of it. However, I set out to explore the Old Town first.
The old town consists of a few streets converging onto the main square. The cobblestone streets are quiet, and even the air seems still in the winter cold.
Right outside the Kurenti House is the City Tower, with its maroon onion dome and a clock on just three sides (the story goes that the city didn’t put a clock facing the castle as a sign of protest against the feudal lords). Nearby is the main theatre, and the majestic Orpheus Monument, a high Roman tombstone that once had criminals chained to it. At the Church of St. George, I find a wooden statue of Ptuj’s patron saint slaying a demon and a carved relief of the Epiphany. Another religious structure is the Minorite Monastery, which is shut on the day. The courtyard, however, is laid out with stalls selling curios, clothes, and local snacks—the space hosts events throughout the year.
The yellow town hall dominates the town square (Mestni Trg) and is buzzing with activity. People mill about under restaurant awnings, there are stray cyclists passing by and children’s shrieks break the silence. In the centre of the square is the statue of St Florian. A closer look and I find an angle holding a bucket of water. It is said that after a fire destroyed the town in the 1700s, the people turned to this patron saint of firefighters, St Florian, for aid and built this statue to honour him.
The walk to the castle is pleasant and I peer into some open shops, seeking out curios and kurent figurines.
Climbing the stairs to the castle may be good cardio but there are other rewards: a sweeping view of the town with its orange tiled roofs, the onion dome of the clock tower standing tall, and in the distance, the Drava River. The castle’s biggest draw is the collections that are part of the Ptuj-Ormož Regional Museum. The lavish rooms have armoury, paintings, Baroque art, and the largest collection of historical musical instruments in Slovenia. The highlight here is the Roman double flute, tibia, made of bone and dating back to the third century. In another room, I encounter the kurent again, and get a closer look at their costumes and that of the many characters that are part of the festival.
Under the castle are some of the region’s older wine cellars, open only for tours. The waters of the Drava may have helped put out fires but, another liquid’s famous in Ptuj, wine. Ptuj’s wine-making tradition reportedly goes back to the thirteenth century when Minorite friars built a wine cellar under their monastery. The oldest wine cellar here is Ptujska Klet, and their treasury includes the oldest Slovenian wine. There are many tasting options across the town, including at some restaurants.
Sipping on a glass of wine, while enjoying the cold, and gazing out onto the Drava and the expanse of red roofs beyond, has to be the best way to experience this little town.
Ptuj is a charming little town, suitable for a day’s tour or explored at leisure. If seeking a break without noise or crowds, Ptuj is ideal. And, if lucky, you may spot a kurent who brings you good luck.
There are flights from Delhi, Mumbai, to the capital, Ljubljana. It is a two-hour train, or three-hour bus ride from here. A Schengen visa is required for travel to Slovenia.
If staying in Ptuj, it’s best to stick to the old town (MuziKafe - Home of Culture is a good place). Ptuj can be explored in a day, so you can keep your base in nearby Maribor, which is a 40-minute bus ride away. UNI Hostel is a good, affordable option in Maribor’s city centre.
In February for the unique Kurentovanje. Note: this is winter so expect snowfall. Alternatively, July and August are summer season, and will see many festivals.
