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As I peered into the window next to me from our aeroplane, a patchwork of Peru's rugged mountains and winding rivers began revealing itself below. Next to me, my dad, a seasoned traveller, photographer, and history buff, was repeatedly re-adjusting his camera—it's not often that places feel new and unknown to him, but this was a trip he had dreamed of since he was a teenager. What was ahead was more than just a getaway; it was an exploration of a land steeped in history, culture, and wonder—a dream brought to life.
Each moment promised discovery, from the towering peaks of the Andes and Machu Picchu to the tragic legacy of the Nazca Desert, from the ancient streets of Inca capital Cusco to the heart of the Amazon rainforest. In the days ahead, we'd explore the breathtaking diversity that defines Peru.
After a tedious 26-hour journey from South India, we landed in Lima, Peru's capital and a veritable mosaic of contemporary-meets-traditional charm. My Dad and I spent hours wandering through Miraflores, a cliffside neighbourhood where high-rise hotels share space with pre-Incan ruins. We drove along the seaside promenade, with the waves of the Pacific crashing against the cliffs below us. Many cliffs were protected with nets to guard against landslides, while small gardens were planted on their nooks to stabilise the soil.
We also visited Casa de Aliaga, a 500-year-old mansion in Lima's historic centre—stepping inside felt like opening a time capsule. Welcoming us himself was a direct descendant of Jerónimo de Aliaga, one of the conquistadors who came to Peru with Francisco Pizarro in the early 16th century and later became one of Lima's founding figures. With a warm, welcoming smile, he promised my father he'd visit India someday.
Local markets and street stalls in Lima teemed with fresh produce: golden ears of corn, creamy avocados, and exotic fruits like lucuma and granadilla. The menus offered an abundance of choice for meat lovers, with everything from alpaca to guinea pig for the more daring. My dad gave these a pass, opting instead for the diverse seafood offerings, like ceviche, a refreshing, citrus-cured fish delicacy, and ají de gallina, a creamy, spiced chicken dish. Meanwhile, I eagerly explored Peru's vibrant plant-based fare, from Andean grains like quinoa to native herbs and spices that made even a simple salad taste divine. We fell in love with the region's rich culinary tapestry and warm hospitality very early on in our trip.
A flight from the Andean highlands, we headed to the ominous desert plains of Nazca. Seeing the Nazca Lines from a tiny plane steered by two pilots with a crackly microphone was surreal. These geoglyphs—giant shapes of mysterious animals and geometric patterns carved into the earth—still puzzle historians and archaeologists. The term "Nazca" translates to "suffering" in Quechua, reflecting the historical struggles of the Nazca people. The ancient lines carved into the arid landscape aren't just artistic expressions and symbols of endurance and survival against all odds.
We were stunned by famous designs like the 'hummingbird', 'family', and 'monkey'. The intrigue of these iconic figures, with their distinct lines clear against the desert's pale orange sands, was well worth the bumpy flight. The Nazca civilisation's artistry, suspended somewhere between mystique, trauma, and history, was incredibly haunting.
From Nazca, we headed to Paracas, a coastal reserve where the desert meets the sea in dramatic contrast. The red sands of Paracas, the salty tang of ocean air, and the sight of pink flamingos wading in the shallows made this area feel like a natural canvas. We spent an afternoon here helping a lone penguin (or pinguino, as locals call it)-like a bird escape the claws of three large, black vultures.
Our journey then took us to Ica, a wine-producing region famous for its Pisco brandy. My Dad and I enjoyed our stay at Hotel Viñas Queirolo. During this beautiful vineyard retreat, we discovered the iconic Peruvian spirit, Pisco, which locals seem to hold nearly as dearly as their national flag. My father couldn't help likening the Pisco Sour, with its refreshing balance of Pisco, lime, and syrup, to his cherished whisky sour, appreciating the way each drink highlights its homeland's characteristic flair.
Our next stop was the oasis town of Huacachina, a tiny emerald lake surrounded by towering dunes that looked like they had been painted onto the landscape. As the sun set, we scrambled up the dunes, casting a golden sheen over the entire desert.
Finally, we arrived in Cusco, the historical heart of the Incan empire and the gateway to Machu Picchu. A city of red-tiled rooftops, cobblestone streets, and plazas shaded by centuries-old churches, Cusco drew us in instantly. We saw Incan terraces built into the mountains, enduring for centuries against time and erosion, and we visited the famous local market in Pisac, where stalls overflowed with colourful textiles, fresh produce, and traditional handicrafts.
Cusco's high altitude of 3,500 metres can make even a short walk feel like a trek, but sipping coca tea, a natural remedy for altitude sickness derived from the coca leaf (from which cocaine is also derived), helps tourists adjust.
One of the highlights was Sacsayhuamán (locals playfully call it "sexy woman")—a fortress of massive stones carefully fitted together without mortar. By dusk, the main plaza came alive, and we happened upon a powerful, peaceful protest supporting women's right to legal abortion access.
Our trip to Machu Picchu was as captivating as the destination itself. We took the Hiram Bingham train, its large windows offering panoramic views of the Urubamba River and Andean landscapes. When we finally reached Machu Picchu, the ancient citadel unveiled itself like a scene from a postcard—stone structures nestled within mist-covered mountains. Though the ruins have been eroded over time, they still stand as a testament to the Incas' architectural genius.
Llamas freely roamed the site, and one friendly llama began chewing on my palm. Standing there with my dad, surrounded by one of the world's most iconic landmarks alongside endearing llamas, we felt part of something timeless, woven into the mountain's countless stones and the stories they could tell.
Our final stop was the Amazon rainforest. We stayed at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, a secluded, zero-network lodge accessible only by boat. Here, we woke up every day to a symphony of jungle sounds: birds, insects, splashing river water, and distant calls of howler monkeys.
Our guides led us through jungle trails, pointing out creatures hiding in the bushes, caimans lurking in riverbeds, and macaws perched above. My father, always watchful for the best shot, kept his camera positioned perfectly as we trekked through the dense forest. In the Amazon, the 'lungs of the earth', the life cycles were on full display, and every species had a role to play.
Our journey back home took a surprising turn when geopolitical tensions in the Middle East forced a last-minute flight rerouting. We found ourselves unexpectedly touching down in Istanbul instead of Dubai and stranded on the tarmac for hours. The detour felt oddly fitting—an unpredictable end to a journey full of twists, turns, and unforgettable moments.
Peru is a land of contrasts, from desert plains to rainforests and ancient ruins to bustling cities. Every moment with my dad was an experience, illuminating, in its way, the fascinating threads connecting past and present in this enchanting land. For travellers seeking both adventure and introspection, Peru is a destination that will leave you inspired long after the journey has ended.
