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Baku, the capital city of Azerbaijan, is a captivating urban centre located at the renowned crossroads where Europe meets Asia. This enchanting city serves as a magnificent gateway showcasing the diverse and awe-inspiring marvels of both continents. Baku enchanted me with its splendid architecture and gardens adorned with a profusion of oleander blooms, their colours brightening the arid landscape. Oleander graced the wayside, well-tended gardens and the front yards of quaint houses, spreading their mild fragrance. Wine grapes festooned charming homes, their tiny green clusters promising future plump, purple fruit. I chased this floral and vinous beauty with my camera, though no frame could capture the essence of their visual grandeur or the joy they brought to my heart. As the great poet Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote, "The earth laughs in flowers." Here are some interesting and offbeat things you can do in this incredible destination.
Icherisheher (Old City) transcends every tourist's checklist when immersed in its historic ambience. With its ancient charm, this heart of Baku eclipses the city’s modern architectural flamboyance. The walled Icherisheher, with its 2 km radius, houses UNESCO World Heritage sites like Shirvanshah’s Palace, the iconic Maiden Tower, Caravan Serais, ruins of bathhouses, etc. I stayed in the heart of Icherisheher, soaking in the setting: I wandered on the cobbled streets and in the narrow alleys, peeped into the many boutiques and studios that were former homes, lost in the labyrinth of lanes and discovered interesting souvenir shops and restaurants in the bargain. The pedestrian-only lanes, a true labyrinth, make this oldest part of the city a treasure trove of rich cultural heritage that gradually captures your soul.
A short 30-minute drive from Baku brings you to the charming village of Balakhani, nestled amid rich oil fields on Azerbaijan's Absheron Peninsula. During the momentous “Oil Boom” of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Balakhani played a key role in Baku's rise as one of the wealthiest cities, where much of its 'Black Gold' was extracted. Balakhani witnessed a remarkable revival after decades of Soviet neglect and now looks a pretty picture. As we entered, we were warmly greeted by Nigar Quanum, a bubbly Indophile who enthusiastically shouted "Amitabh Bachan! Dharmendra! Shah Rukh Khan!" and reeled off a string of Bollywood films. Her infectious enthusiasm and rapid Azerbaijani chatter, eagerly translated by our guide, set the tone for our visit.
Nigar led us to restored historic monuments, including a 17th-century caravanserai, a 15th-century Gum Hamam (Sand Bath), and a 1428 mausoleum. The area is steeped in history, being home to the world's first modern oil well dug in 1873. Balakhani’s stunning street art, painted on the compound walls of small houses, attracted me the most. I loved walking on Balakhani’s narrow, cobblestone streets as the friendly villagers smiled and greeted us. Nigar introduced an artist from Iran who was passing by and later showed us one of his art installations that is based on the famous Azerbaijan carpets. Balakhani is worth visiting for its vintage appeal, antique shops, atmospheric restaurants and charming residents.
Baku’s Puppet Theatre is a beautiful white building notable for its French Renaissance architecture. It remains a cherished venue in Baku, preserving traditional puppetry while exploring contemporary themes and techniques, contributing significantly to the cultural fabric of Azerbaijan. Based on folk or fairy tales like Aladdin, these shows (mostly in Azerbaijani and Russian) are primarily presented for children. I watched “Jirtdan”, one of the most popular and beloved fairy tales in Azerbaijan. The audience was mostly kids, the smaller ones mounted on booster cushions and their doting mothers, who were mostly reliving their childhood, watched the show nostalgically. Another great place for puppet shows is the Marionette Theatre tucked away in Icherisheher. I went past this place a few times to catch it open but it was always closed. Later Irada, a passer-by said that it was closed for summer and would open again in September.
I spent an entire evening at the Philharmonic Garden listening to fresh and passionate music by youth…as a young lady played the piano, her friends surrounded and cheered her while elders swayed to the beat, and a young man took his guitar and started singing in a soulful voice. It is a common sight in the evenings: people strolling in the parks, stopping by to attend these short concerts. Kids surround the fountains under their mothers’ supervision and play with water. Fountain Park near Nizami Street is another spot to relax your tired feet while savouring the pleasure of people-watching.
This large pedestrian and shopping street in downtown Baku, named after classical Persian poet Nizami Ganjavi, is the most happening place where all the young people and tourists hang out. It is filled with beautiful period buildings and embassies and is home to various outlets, from banks to fashion stores. It is said to be one of the most expensive streets in the world. You can dine here at one of the restaurants serving authentic Azerbaijani food and wander, admiring the artistically lit streets and squares.
A beautiful sight to behold, Baku’s beauty gets enhanced tenfold after dark, with its stunning monuments superbly illuminated, wearing a fairyland look. Reach Highland Park on the hill by Baku Funicular for a small fee. It offers incredible views of the city, and you can see the Flame Towers from close. Then, climb down the illuminated steps and walk along the Boulevard looking at the glowing buildings.
How To Get There
Jazeera Airways flies from major Indian cities into Baku via Kuwait.
Best Time To Visit
The ideal months to visit Azerbaijan are April to June and September to October, offering comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds.
Visas
Azerbaijan E-visa takes three working days to arrive and costs USD 26 (INR 2,178).
Currency
Most hotels accept cards but shops and eateries insist on Azerbaijan Manat (AZN). Better carry US dollars and exchange.
Stay
You can find reasonably priced good hotels in Icherisheher and restaurants serving authentic local cuisine. One can save on transport and time as most attractions are within walking distance.
