Ranikhet: The Hill Paradise Where The British Housed The Army

Ranikhet, the charming hill station in Almora district of Uttarakhand, gives nature precedence over man. So don't be surprised when you come face to face with a sign that cautions, "Leopards have the right of way." They do. 

So do monkeys that swing through its trees, the deer and bears that hide in the thick groves or the birds that soar in the sky. This thickly forested paradise was discovered by the British, who, in the late 1860s, came looking to house their army and administration in a hilly station that could provide both strategic and economic advantages. 

The natural beauty of the Ranikhet highlands was an easy winner. The tranquil green meadows surrounded by soaring pine and leafy oak forests, with a panoramic view of the Himalayas, provided ideal environs for large Tudor-style bungalows, a dozen or so churches, a country club, a golf course and a whole-fledged army regiment. 

Things To See And Do 

Walker's Paradise 

Ranikhet is best experienced by walking along its lanes or hiking through its forest. Take the Mall Road for a leisurely walk from Nar Singh Ground (NSG) via Ranikhet Club to Meghdoot Hotel. Or start at Meghdoot Hotel and head towards Chaubatia (5 km). 

The winding route from behind the Army Holiday Home to the AMU Guest House is peaceful. The trek up from the Mall towards this same guest house is also lovely, along with many old British bungalows. Another option is the path one kilometre south of the West View Hotel. 

Shorter treks include stretches between Ranikhet Club and Chevron Rosemount (2 km), Meghdoot and West View Hotel (3 km) and West View Hotel to Jhula Devi Temple. 

On the other end of the town from NSG, head towards the Army Golf Course (6 km), the Kalika Temple, and Majkhali, known for its gorgeous sunset views. 

Forest hikes can be accessed between Chaubatia Orchards walking north towards Holm Farm (2 km) and Chaubatia walking south towards Bhalu Dam (a round trip of 5 km). 

Temples And Churches

Ranikhet has several temples, but the two most venerated are the Jhula Devi Temple and the Kalika Devi Temple, the shrine of the principal deity of the Kumaon Regiment that is headquartered here. The town also has a dozen-odd Anglican churches, most of which have been converted into army seminar halls or, as in the case of the Methodist Church above NSG, into a weaving centre for army wives and widows.

Chaubatia Orchards

One of the first Raj-era hill gardens, Chaubatia Orchards, is pleasant. It is at its flowering best between April and May, an excellent time to walk along the path through the orchard. From here, you can take a leisurely 3-km hike to Bhalu Dam. The sunset viewpoint here has a café. You can also buy seasonal fruits from the orchard.

Tee Off

Ranikhet's green meadows around Upat and Kalika Devi Temple were turned into a nine-hole golf course sometime during the 1920s. You can play a round of golf here. The rights of admission and play are, however, at the discretion of the army. Foreigners will need to apply for permission well in advance.

Chillianaula

Situated 4km from the main market, along the road going northeast from Shaitan Singh Ground, past the Military Dairy, is the temple of the mystic Haidakhan Wale Baba. He built many temples at Haidakhan before he died in 1984. The baba believed that the path to God lay in love, truth and simplicity.

Where To Stay

Among budget-friendly hotels, Hotel Meghdoot is a great option. The tariff starts from INR 1,000. Queen's Meadow Hotel also offers rooms in a similar range. Among luxury hotels, ITC Holiday Home Welcome Heritage Windsor Ranikhet (tariff from INR 4,700 onwards) is a good place.

Where To Eat

Ranikhet's main market has restaurants that dish out fast food meals. Moon Hotel & Restaurant has north Indian fare. If you are looking for a more elaborate meal, head for Chevron Rosemount or West View Hotel. Visitors can also eat at Ranikhet Club, which houses a well-stocked bar. Note that the club follows a strict formal wear regimen. The Continental breakfast at Hotel Meghdoot is filling. It would be best if you also tried sugar-covered bal mithai, available at Ranikhet's many sweet shops.

Getting There

If opting for road travel, the nearest major town is Kathgodam, connected to various cities by rail. From Kathgodam, a scenic drive of approximately 80 kilometres through winding roads surrounded by lush forests leads to Ranikhet. Alternatively, travellers can take a train to Kathgodam and hire a taxi or use public transport to cover the remaining distance.