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For most travellers, Ratnagiri is merely a pretty stop on the Konkan Railway, where red earth gleams under the tracks, and dark green trees laden with ripe mangoes whiz past the train windows. However, if you do decide to venture past the railway station, there's even greater beauty to be discovered. Ratnagiri town, the headquarters of the eponymous district, can be your base for exploring the sight and sounds. The town and the district is also known for its festive celebrations, notably Ganesh Chaturthi.
Just 15 minutes from the station is Ratnagiri's glorious coastline, fringed by bright green hills. The port is what Mumbai must have been like in the 19th century. Indeed, the first view that greeted visitors landing at erstwhile Bombay's Apollo Bunder would surely have been strikingly similar to the one served up by Ratnagiri today.
Red earth and green mangoes are Ratnagiri'ss claim to fame, and its Burmese connection adds to the town's exotic value. The town is edged by three beaches but it is best to avoid swimming as there are no life guards around.
Ratnagiri has an uneven sea-face, broken by a deep bay, which is spanned by the Bhatye Bridge. At the brown Bhatye Beach, the water rarely comes up above the knees for the first 50 yards. The further away you go from the bridge, the quieter it becomes. The thick barrier of suru trees between the beach and the coastal highway prevents sound from travelling either way, and by the time you reach the Coconut Research Station, you have the beach to yourself. In the tourist season, you might find an odd bhelpuri or nariyal pani vendor in the evening.
Maratha emperor Shivaji's Ratnadurg Fort is known as the Qila. It once sprawled across two hills, looking down at the magnificent blue sea. However, all that's left of it today are crumbling walls. Inside the remnants of the fort is the Sri Devi Bhagwati Mandir, which gives the fort its other name, Bhagwati Qila. In the yesteryears, the government used the fort's stones to build the Bhagwati Jetty, but the jetty itself was never operational. It's worth visiting the fort for the gorgeous views it offers. You have to climb a few stairs to reach the top of the fort and the temple.
Though this is a lively beach, it is also rather unclean. It lies close to the Ratnadurg Fort, and always has a sizeable crowd of visitors in the evening. But tourists would do well to stay away from the beach. The sand here is almost black, the area is littered and gets quite noisy. Mandavi also has the Ratnagiri Jetty, along with the unremarkable Gateway of Ratnagiri. It is an unfortunate sobriquet, as Mandavi is the least pretty part of Ratnagiri's coastline. It is also impossible to navigate with the rocks jutting out of the water.
Located on one side of the Ratnadurg Fort, this beach lives up to its name, which can be literally translated as the 'snow white sea'. However, it's the sand and not the sea that's stunningly white. Seen from the ramparts of the fort, it is an inviting sight but closer inspection reveals that it reeks of fish, not necessarily a desirable prospect for many. Locals say that the fishermen dump all the catch that they consider worthless on this beautiful shore.
The freedom fighter's house, also known as Tilak Ali, has since been converted into a museum. It has many of Tilak's pictures, and is a lovely example of traditional Konkani architecture.
Those who have read Amitav Ghosh's 'TheGlass Palace' will identify Ratnagiri as the setting where the exiled Burmese king's story unfolds. The Thibaw Palace is located close to Thibaw Point, which has a watchtower from where one gets a bird's eye-view of Ratnagiri. It was built for the king from Myanmar (then Burma) who was dethroned and exiled to India by the British. The palace, built under the king's supervision, is modest by royal standards. It was completed in 1910 at a cost of rupees 1.25 lakh. It also houses a museum of antiquities found in the area. The palace has undergone much renovation, and continues to be a major attraction.
Getting there: Ratnagiri is about 400km away by road from Mumbai and about 300km from Pune. Apart from Mumbai and Pune airports, Ratnagiri may also be approached from Goa's Manohar International Airport (about 200km away by road). However, taking a train is a more convenient option Ratnagiri is a key station on the Konkan Railway route.
Where to stay: There are budget and midbudget hotel in town but these are mostly frequented by people coming on religious or business purposes. Leisure travellers mostly prefer to stay at resorts in and around Ganapatipule.
Where to eat: There are many simple but clean eateries in town. Try the local Konkani cuisine. You will also get a smattering of Malvani food, Udupi fare, Indian Chinese and Continental dishes.
