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To veer off State Highway 17 and pass through the arched gate to Mysore city is a symbolic act. One leaves behind the frenetic bustle and the determined post-modernist throb of Bengaluru, Mysore's eastern neighbour and, in many ways, the gracious old city's upstart sibling.
Till 1973, when Mysore State was renamed Karnataka, it was the spirit of Mysore that imbued the cultural and social life of the region. As Bengaluru embraced science and strode ahead into the emerging world of technology, Mysore remained enmeshed in a time warp of old-world royalty.
The Wodeyars made Mysore grand and irresistible, particularly so under the rule of Chikka Devaraja Wodeyar (1673-1704). He promoted art and literature, besides instituting large-scale administrative reforms. By the late 18th century, however, their sway over Mysore weakened when their general, Haider Ali, rebelled to establish a capital in the nearby Srirangapatna. The young Muslim kingdom barely had the time to consolidate itself when the British started interfering. Haider Ali's son, Tipu Sultan, bravely took on the challenge till he was killed in the Battle of Mysore in 1799, earning the grudging admiration of his enemies, who nicknamed him the Tiger of Mysore.
The Wodeyars returned to rule Mysore, subject to the British writ. Once again Mysore revived its links to art and learning. It's a tradition that lives on till today. Like the die-hard fans of RK Narayan's Tales from Malgudi who'll swear they can recognise its landmarks everywhere.
It's a city that harks back to a past when the finer things in life still mattered. It's a place where time is measured in seasons and not seconds, and where a horse-drawn tonga still runs alongside an autorickshaw.
Mysore's glorious past does not live on in its royal edifices, churches or museums. Its palpable in the unhurried, yet often grand lifestyle of its people, and its literature and performing arts. Cap the experience with a Mysorean sunset. Even today I would assert, after having visited many parts of the world, that nowhere can you witness such masterpiece sunsets as in Mysore, wrote RK Narayan in My Days.
Home to the Wodeyars, the Indo-Saracenic Amba Vilas Palace, also known as Mysore Palace, was built in 1912. Designed by Henry Irwin, this palace is dominated by domes, turrets and colonnades. Beautifully restored and maintained, the palace is a treasure trove of art, antiques and rare collectibles. In the Marriage Pavilion (open to the public only during Dasara) you can see the chandeliers, cast-iron pillars from Glasgow and a Belgian glass decorated ceiling. This is also where the jewel-studded 14th-century Golden Throne is placed. Some say it's made of fig wood. Entry fee Adults INR 100, Children above 10 years INR 50, children below 10 yrs free Timings 10am-5.30 pm, open all days.
Next to the palace is the Maharaja's Residence, now a museum with a good collection of art and artefacts. Normally lit on Sundays and public holidays, the grand structure is a treat, especially during Dasara when every evening its entire panoply of 97,000 bulbs shine bright. Entry fee INR 40 for adults, INR 20 for children over 10 years. Timings 10 am-5.30 pm, open all days.
The Jagan Mohan Palace houses the Sri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery with its collection of Raja Ravi Varma and Nicholas Roerich paintings. Entry fee Adults INR 20, children INR 10 Timings 10 am-5 pm, open all days.
Located 5 km from the Amba Vilas Palace, within the sprawling campus of the University of Mysore, lies the beautiful Jayalakshmi Vilasa Palace, built in 1905. It houses one of Mysore's best landmarks, the Folklore Museum. With over 6,500 articles on display, this museum is considered one of the biggest of its kind in Asia. Entry Free Timings 10 am-1 pm, 3 pm -5 pm. Closed on Sundays and public holidays.
The second largest palace in the city, the Lalitha Mahal, is a spectacular white stone building, situated at the foot of the Chamundi Hills. Built in 1913 by Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, it served as a palace for guests. The tradition continues with the palace now running as a 5-star heritage hotel.
Atop the Chamundi Hillls is the abandoned royal retreat, Rajendra Vilas. Its main draw is its spectacular view of Mysore.
Rail Museum
Located behind the railway station, this little known, but impressive museum has locomotive coaches, paintings and photographs, narrating the Rail Story. The prize exhibit is the Maharaja's Saloon, especially crafted for the Wodeyar rulers in 1899. Entry INR 50 for adults, INR 20 for children Timings 10 am-5.30 pm. Still Camera INR 20, Video Camera INR 30. Toy train ride INR 10
St Philomena's Church
Mysore's only British edifice, on Ashoka Road north of the Amba Vilas Palace, is this Gothic Church built in 1931. It's an imposing structure with impressive stained-glass windows and twin spires that stretch 175 ft into the sky. Entry Free Timings 8 am-8 pm, open all days Cameras Not allowed.
Chamundeswari Temple
Perched atop the Chamundi Hills, at a height of 1,000 ft on the eastern edge of Mysore, sits the 11th-century Chamundeswari Temple dedicated to Goddess Durga, the family deity of the Wodeyars. You can either climb the 1,000 steps to the temple or drive up the winding ghat roads. As you approach the temple, you can see the towering statue of the demon Mahishasura. Nearby is the monolithic Nandi. Entry Ordinary darshan free, special darshan INR 10) Timings 7.30 am-2 pm, 3.30-6 pm and 7.30-9 pm, open all days.
Over 60,000 palm-leaf manuscripts in Sanskrit and South Indian languages are housed in the Oriental Research Institute. Located behind Maharaja's College, its prized possessions include Prof R Shama Sastry's translation of Kautilya's Arthashastra. It is one of Mysore's treasures. Entry Free Timings 10 am-5.30 pm, closed on Sundays and on second Saturdays.
To experience Mysore at its best, simply walk. The 150-acre Karanji Kere (next to the zoo) is a refreshing green lung. Skirting the Manasa Gangotri Campus is Kukkanahalli Kere, RK Narayan's muse.
For shopaholics, Mysore's well-planned markets are a treat. At the Devaraj Urs Market (which is located off Sayyaji Rao Road) you will find Mysore's very own special fragrant jasmine, and the tangy betel leaf. Also, on Sayyaji Rao Road is the government-run Cauvery Arts Emporium, known for its genuine sandalwood and ivory inlay work.
Drop by at the Government Silk Weaving Factory on Mananthavady Road, where you can watch the famous Mysore silk saris being woven. Go between 10.30 am and 8 pm. The factory also houses a retail outlet on the premises and another one on KR Circle. The Government Sandal Oil Factory, where sandal oil is extracted and used in the production of the famous Mysore Sandal Soap, is worth a visit. Timings 9:30 am–1 pm, 2–5:30 pm. Closed on Sunday.
A laid-back stopover city en route the Kodagu, Wayanad and the Nilgiris, Mysore has plenty of hotels to choose from.
The advantage of location goes to The Viceroy (Tel 0821-2424001 Tariff from INR 2,000 onwards), which faces the Mysore Palace. At the upper end of the scale is the Hotel Southern Star (Tel 2426426 Tariff from 6,500 onwards). Karnataka Tourism's Mayura Hoysala (Tel 089706 50014 Tariff 1,500 onwards) is a good option but book well in advance. King's Kourt Hotel (Tel 099452 47203 Tariff INR 2,000 onwards) is nearby.
Hotel Dasaprakash Paradise (Tel 0821 400 8400 Tariff INR 1,700 onwards) in Yadavagiri and Ginger Mysore (Tel 6633333 Tariff INR 4,000 onwards) in Nazarabad are other good options.
On the green outskirts, Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel (Tel 2526100/ 98 Tariff from INR 3,000) is superbly located at the foot of Chamundi Hills. On the Mysore-Nanjangud Road is The Village Resort (Tel 2481310/ 766 Tariff INR 8,000 onwards), 2 km from the city centre. The beautiful Green Hotel (Tel 0821-4255000 Tariff INR 4,000 onwards) is in Jayalakshmipuram.
Taking a tiffin break in Mysore is the most delicious thing to do. The city offers terrific set dosas (fluffy, soft pancakes made of beaten rice, served in sets of three), masala dosas, uppittu (or upma), rava idli and Mysore rasam. Tasty savouries like churmuris and peanut masala also entice. But the most outstanding feature of the city is the web of bakeries set up by Mysore's Vaishnavite community, the Iyengars. Try out the veg bun cakes and nipattus at the Iyengar Bakeries on Devaraj Urs Road and the nearby Sayyaji Rao Road. And how can anyone forget Mysore pak, the sweetmeat that Mysore made famous.
The restaurant at Hotel Dasaprakash is recommended for excellent South Indian thalis. Bombay Tiffany's high teas are great. The Nalpak restaurants in Ittigegudu, Kuvempu Nagar and VV Mohalla are the places to head for delicacies like akki and ragi roti, and the spicy bisi-beli-huli-anna (hot-lentil-tamarind-rice). If driving down from Bengaluru, try the famous Maddur vadai at the town by the same name en route.
The best way to reach Mysore is to fly to Bengaluru (there are direct flights to Bengaluru from all major cities in India) and then take a bus or train to Mysore.
