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It was a desert you would not recognise if you last visited Jaisalmer in the dry months. The bare brown earth was sprinkled with greenery, thanks to the recent bouts of rain. The sun was strong, but the air only felt warm on the skin, not burning hot. Monsoon transforms the Thar desert and we had arrived just in time - it had rained the day before, putting Jaisalmer in a good mood.
On the 300km drive down the highway from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer, we were accompanied by peacocks, squirrels and other small animals. The car stopped at a place on the highway and there they were - a herd of petite blackbucks busy gorging themselves on the fresh green grass of the monsoon. They are considered sacred by most tribes in Rajasthan.
It took us a mere three hours on the cruise-worthy NH14 to reach the "Golden City of India", aptly named because the entire city, in keeping with government norms, is constructed only with yellow sandstone. Monsoon clouds loomed over the desert in little bunches here and there, promising another shower. The weather was slightly humid but cool because of the gusts of breeze. Rains bring out the real beauty of the desert. Crops grow with vigour and a general sense of infectious happiness prevails over the lands.
We checked into Suryagarh Jaisalmer around noon. The magnificent architecture of the hotel led us to believe that it was one of the ancient forts of Jaisalmer converted into a hotel until somebody told us it was built only four years ago. Astonishing!
Within a few hours in Jaisalmer, you realise that it is a very atmospheric destination. The desert, the history, the vibrant clothes and the good-humoured people together create something that is unique and invokes a certain sense of nostalgia and curiosity.
The main town is spread over 5 square kilometres. The architecture in this area is truly eye-catching, especially because of the intricate design details. The main houses reflect more of the Rajputana style, but in the ruins, which are abundant in and around the city, there are subtle influences of Islamic and Chinese architecture.
The first prominent structure that grabs your attention once you enter the city is the grand Jaisalmer Fort, built in 1156 by Rao Jaisal, a Rajput ruler. Sitting proudly on top of the Trikuta Hill, this fort is the only living fort in Asia and one of the largest fortifications in the world. With its honey-coloured walls, it blends in brilliantly with the sands of the Thar desert. The inside of the fort has a different story to tell. Being a living fort, it is inhabited by families who have been there for generations. Haphazard construction is a considerable threat to the fort, which sinks a few inches every year. Hotels, shops and people throng the fort. The bazaars are effervescent with energy, sounds and vibrant colours. It is a great place to buy local handicrafts and souvenirs.
Jaisalmer appears really untouched in spite of all the globalisation everywhere around it, in cities that are just hours away. There are no fancy stores, nothing that can pretend to be a mall, no high street labels. The local merchandise is publicised through hand-painted advertisements on the walls. Amid all this, the town is dotted with ruins. Some are chhatris or little canopies with intricate roofs symbolising pride and honour some are govardhans, which are carved pillars signifying the presence of water for weary travellers. There are numerous ancient wells in the entire area, some with sarais (inns) next to them.
A camel safari organised by Suryagarh Jaisalmer in the evening was like the cherry on the cake. Riding on these ships of the desert was a wonderful experience. Slightly tough for your back, but once you move with them in the same rhythm, it proves to be a lot of fun. The sky was studded with stars and a crescent moon, thanks to the rain-washed clean air. We rode through ruins, oases, it felt like we were travelling back in time. With the rains, all the oases were replenished, and the greenery blossomed.
A visit to the Lodurua (also spelled as "Lodurva") Jain temple left most of us awe-struck. It is a 12th century structure, with jaw-dropping sophisticated and intricate details. The architecture is remarkable in the way it plays with natural light.
The Khaba Fort, dating back to the 14th century, is on the outskirts of the main town. It overlooks an ancient cluster of abandoned villages called Kuldhara that was once inhabited by the Paliwal Brahmins, an important community of the area back in the day. Legend has it that it was deserted overnight - people say that the Paliwals left when a wicked Diwan harassed the Paliwal chief's daughter. To win her hand by force, the Diwan began poisoning the community's water supply from the lakes and wells. And so they left. An affluent village once upon a time, it had 5,000 houses, six man-made lakes, 35 chhatris, 80 courts and 125 temples.
The top of the fort is the perfect place from where to witness a 360 degree view of both the sunrise and the sunset - in this season, the sunset is nothing less than breathtaking as the deepening colours of the sun are diffused by the rain clouds. The entire area adjoining the fort, including the ruins of the abandoned village, is alive with the melancholic yet soothing cries of peacocks, which hang around in large numbers, making the view spectacular.
It is as if Jaisalmer lives for the rains, soaking it up and producing a metamorphosed landscape, in which peacocks dance, grazing animals roam contented, and vibrantly coloured birds and neon beetles come out in the open. The parched ruins suddenly appear brighter against the monsoon greenery, reminding us of their glorious history.
By air: Jodhpur is the nearest airport (300km).
By rail: Jaisalmer has daily connectivity with Bikaner, Lalgarh, Jodhpur, Jaipur and Delhi. Jaisalmer is also one of the major stations in the journey by India's first luxury train Palace on Wheels.
By road: Jaisalmer town lies on National Highway 15. Luxury Mercedes and Volvo buses run to Jaisalmer from Delhi and Ahmedabad. Standard buses operated by RSRTC and private companies also connect Jaisalmer with Jodhpur, Jaipur, Barmer, Udaipur, Bikaner, Mt Abu, Ahmadabad, Mumbai, Pune and other cities of India.
The Suryagarh Jaisalmer (Prices INR 14,500 to 1,25,000 ) is an excellent choice. The service is great and the hotel organises specially designed tours in and around the city. It also provides transport, including pick-and-drop services to and from Jodhpur. Le Royal Camps Jaisalmer (Starts INR 6,500), offers tented camps in the sand dune. Hotel Jaisal Palace (Rs 800-Rs 1,000 Tel 09414149594) near Bhatia Market is simple with all basic amenities, including Internet access.
