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The ceaseless pitter patter of raindrops as the Monsoon blankets Goa in a misty, ethereal glow is the time to take stock, rest and rejuvenate. It’s also a time to embrace the Monsoon mania that Goa proudly upholds.
As the cool breeze mingles with the welcome whiff of damp soil, the sunny state transforms into a lush kaleidoscope of green. Beaches might be off-limits, owing to the currents, but the hinterland comes alive in delicate pockets, offering trails of unique experiences, each touching the essence of a land, culinary history, heritage and biodiversity.
Don the hat of a naturalist or festival seeker as you discover the quaint villages or tread carefully into forests and nature reserves. Embrace monsoon and celebrate this intrinsically cultural and lesser-known identity of the susegado land:
Come August, vibrant flags flutter across the skyline of Divar. Reminiscent of an impressionist canvas, the scene is set with ambling Goan children, wavering flags, and a robust brass band in attendance, heralding the onset of Bonderam. Known as the festival of flags or “Festa de Bandeiras,” the celebrations commence when the sown paddy is ready for harvest.
To attend, make your way across the Mandovi River on a ferry to Divar Island, where the festival is held on two consecutive weeks–one at St. Mathias (Malar) on August 17, and the other at Piedade on August 24.
Thanking the bounty, the Bonderam parade originally begins in Raia (South Goa) on August 5, then visits Salvador de Munde. Yet, the cynosure of all eyes is on Divar Island, where tradition meets heritage and harvest. The Malar fete is among the few unsponsored festivals brought to life by a man who calls himself Festakar Marius Fernandes. “The Raia and Salvador de Mundo are more religious in nature. The Malar and Piedade one is a harvest tradition dating back over 400 years, steeped in culture,” explains Marius Fernandes.
The origins date back to the historical disputes between the gaunkars (landowners) and the communidades (village communities) over land boundaries during the Portuguese era, who settled it by using coloured flags to demarcate farmland. This has slowly evolved into the Bonderam of today, a vision of fluttering flags, festivity and food.
“For the people of St Mathias, Malar (also called Malarkars), Bonderam is more than a festival, it is a symbol of our heritage and communal harmony,” adds Fernandes. Fernandes has dedicated his life to celebrating and rejuvenating Goan traditions through storytelling. He is committed to keep it authentic, and not a diluted sponsored festival.
Fernandes and the inhabitants of Divar bring together a cornucopia of Goan life. A frolic into its culture, people gather with beautifully endowed flags and amble from the church square, with a regal brass band trumpeting along as they walk the border of Divar. Earlier, this revelry included a fotash (mock gun) loaded with “berry fire!” As berry bullets aimed for the flags, people took potshots at each other, too. Thus, the practice has since been abandoned.
One can join the 1000-strong congregation, partake in harvest dances, as local Goan bands croon, Konkani singers render fados, and college kids perform tiatr – The Malar Bonderam troupe has been practicing for months now. “We host a flag and heritage workshop–teach coconut weaving, which Goans use as shades for their homes,” adds Fernandes.
The Festakar regales all with anecdotes, history, tradition and Goan delicacies to chomp on, in this two-hour rendezvous. “Carmel College, and College of Agriculture students will perform skits on the environment and rainwater harvesting,” adds Fernandes.
On the first of four trails, revellers are served Goan dish – vonn – next comes patolieo, a sweet dish made in the Monsoon from a turmeric leaf. The dos (gram burfi) comes next and the last stretch brings the king of fruit’s local favourite, the jackfruit pudde. “Chef Maria Dias and Chef Venita Simões demonstrate the making of patolieo (a rice, coconut and jaggery dumpling wrapped in turmeric leaf), all hosted by Dr Gwendolyn de Ornelas,” says Fernandes. The motley crowd then make their way to the heart of the Malar celebrations, at the centre, where Goan dances, songs, and melodies as RJ Joel Almeida brings this parade to fruition.
A rarity today, here is where Divarkars come together in all manner of artistic expressions. “This collaborative effort is a testament to the strong community spirit that defines Divar Island,” says the festakar. The Peidade Sports Club festival follows the week after, where bits and bobs of Bonderam unfurl.
The Information:
Dates: August 17 at Malar and August 24 at Piedade
Entry: Free
In a tourist scenario that is more about taking than endowing, Parag Rangnekar of Mrugaya Xpeditions brandishes sustainable tourism to safeguard the flora and fauna of Goa. While the environmentalist and scientist is known for his grassroots work to bring communities in touch with nature’s ways and document species, with Mrugaya Xpeditions, Parag and his team offer nature and wildlife tours and are recognised as responsible tourism pathfinders and champions of sustainable travel.
This rainy season, one can sign up for a reptilian and amphibian trail, a trail into lateritic plateaus filled with flowers. “We don’t do typical safaris. Our customers, mainly Europeans, are in smaller groups, and we educate and spread awareness about conservation and sustainable travel. If my guest understands the land and its preservation, then my work is done,” smiles Parag.
The trails are all bespoke. Most sign up for a homestay package or a curated trail into Amboli or Tamdi Surla, where a naturalist peppers knowledge along the way. Stay at Jungle Trails at Tamdi Surla – the amphibian trails deep dive into snakes like the hump-nosed pit viper – endemic to the western ghats found in South Goa. At Amboli, spot the Malabar pit viper, Malabar gliding and wrinkled frogs. “There are at least nine to 10 species of frogs, five to six species of snakes,” adds Parag, laughing that spotting them is a “matter of practice - your eyes don’t see what your mind does not know.”
In August, the laterite plateaus are a vista of flowers post-monsoon where petal talk is at its height. “Goa’s laterite plateaus are considered barren, yet they are even more biodiverse than rain forests. The flowers on these trails are ephemeral – witnessed for 15 days, then gone. Utricularia, Drosera, an insectivorous plant, ground orchids, like the Habenaria are all a part of this day tour.” The flower carpets, once in full bloom, disappear come September, and this trail even has one species only found in Goa, Dipkadi Goaemse.
The Information
Trail for one: Approximately Rs 1,500 per person
For more information, contact info@ mrugayaxpeditions.com
Ever seen a forest converse with its inner glow? The monsoon brings this to the forests of Goa: a bioluminescence trail with a cadence that will stun the onlooker. Makeithappen and Mrugaya Xpeditions offer these Bioluminescence trails with a naturalist as a guide. Bundled up, sneakered, rain jacketed, explore the hidden, dark and often untouched parts of the forests, even as the rain lashes unfettered. Walk into inviting green shrubbery at the heart of a forest and stare in awe at the resplendent glow that even glow worms revel in. In Goa, specifically, the forest floor lights up, and tree barks glow during the monsoon. Some beaches like Betalbatim offer unique sights of these plankton, akin to a fledgeling northern lights. Yet, it is in the Mhadei Forest monsoon that a walk transforms as the light keeper of the forest through an incandescent glow as a surreal spread of bioluminescent fungi greets you. The treks organised for nature lovers take you into the heart of the forest, where you can witness this natural phenomenon that feels otherworldly.
What makes the bioluminescence so? An expert says, “It is a fungus belonging to the genus Mycena which produces enzyme Luciferase which reacts with Luciferin, the light-emitting compound found on decaying wood to produce incandescent bioluminescence.”
These treks not just captivate but unfold the glory of nature when left to grow unfettered. Giving you a peek into the biodiverse nature of Goa’s forests, the guides or wildlife experts often take you through dense outgrowth, past many glow-worthy vistas, and while the darkness can be a bit unnerving, these nocturnal trails open up a whole new world. If lucky, spot wildlife and reptiles, amphibians, and even chance upon wildflowers glowing under the night sky.
“Hosted by a naturalist, the start point has no signal. Hence, the trail starts at the meeting point. Into the Mollem National Park, through the wildlife sanctuary, this 2-2.5 hour experience begins at 6 pm. The intensity of the trek is light/easy. Pets are not allowed. One gets to learn so much about the ecosystem and biodiversity, and we spot different varieties of frogs, crabs, fungi, and insects. Witness the bioluminescence, which occurs at two places in the forest. Learning how it occurs, as you have fireflies and glow worms as constant companions,” says Nigel of Makeithappen.
The Information
Makeithappen meeting Point: https://maps.app.goo.gl/S2vhxQBpx5ABoCGj8?g_st=ic
Start Time: 06:00 pm.
Price: Rs 1,800/- per guest (13 years and above) and Rs 900 per guest (5-12 years old)
The trail starts 5 km from this point. You will need transportation/ vehicle from the meeting point to the start point. The start point has no signal, and hence, the meeting point.
A storyteller brings you close to the heart of Goan experiences at Makeithappen. While there are many tours that are offered in the monsoon, albeit with umbrellas and rain shoes in tow, the Fontainhas and Old Goa ones resonate with history. However, the Mulgao trail brings you into a lazy Goan village, with lessons in silence, juxtaposed by the occasional shriek of a round-beaked heron, a quick read of a Goan lady selling her rosary sausages, corners where the bountiful nature of its red soil gives monsoon fresh greens and vegetables even as the Poder goes from house to house, hooting his arrival. That in itself is an idyllic happenstance. Walking through the vaddo, turning into the tiny and almost missable centre, imbibing the life of a sussegado Goan. Makeithappen started by Maria Victor offers many Indigenous trails, and the Mulgao experience gives one a chance to be a villager for a day. Visit the coconut farm nestled in North Goa and take a religious and spiritual journey that takes you through over 50 temples and shrines (many pick and choose). Peeking into the abundance of nature, folk culture, and ancient pre-Portuguese heritage, the trail endears one to a way of life that is fast disappearing, yet one that welcomes a chance to live simplistically. The inhabitants pride themselves on growing paddy and are quite pious about the guardian deities that protect them.
Experience agritourism through this tour’s holistic approach to sustainability, from education and awareness to hands-on experiences and forming meaningful connections with the local community. Participate in various stages of the farming process at Mulgao Verde coconut farm and understand the process of Virgin coconut oil production along with other novel products. Understand the various uses of the coconut palm in all areas of daily life in Goa. Top this off with a wholesome local meal by village folks as you sit in silence in a coconut grove, contemplating life. “The Mulgao folk culture trail includes a meal where guests are taken to a local farm to forage food, and these are traditional Goan fare,” says Maria Victor of makeithappen.
The Information
Price: Rs 2500
Time: Three hours
For more info, visit https://makeithappen.co.in/
Having transport is advisable. Let the village shyly open its arms to the beauty it beholds.
