Hot and dry, a harsh land to inhabit, very sparsely populated, Kutch is nevertheless a fascinating place. This district in northwestern Gujarat is effectively an island, with the mighty Arabian Sea to its west, the Gulf of Kutch to its south and the Greater and Little Rann to the north and east.
Bhuj, the capital of the former state of Kutch for almost 400 years and now the headquarters of Kutch district, is a mix of the ancient and modern. Compared to metro cities such as Mumbai or Delhi, Bhuj is a veritable oasis of peace. But by Kutch standards, it is positively bustling with life. With good stay options and connectivity, Bhuj is also the best base for exploring the rest of this interesting region.
You drive into it on a road flanked with hills that are crowned with a fort's ramparts. These are the Bhujiya Hills from where Bhuj gets its name. Unfortunately, the main city is mainly remembered for the devastating earthquake of January 2001, the scars of which are still visible.
The huge complex, near the Swaminarayan Temple, houses both the Aina Mahal and the Prag Mahal. The first thing about Prag Mahal, a heritage site, that hits you is how incongruous it looks—its European architecture standing out amid the crumbling ruins of the complex. Tall and stately, with Gothic windows and Corinthian pillars, it seems like an object out of a space-time warp.
The palace itself is imposing, and the intricate carvings on the walls and the jaali work on the jharokhas (windows) are exquisite. There are the unmistakable symbols of erstwhile royal pursuits—yellowing photographs of young men in sports attire, and walls of trophies, comprising lions, deer, bears and even a hippo. However, everything has fallen into a state of disrepair.
Entry: Adult INR 10
Timings: Monday to Saturday 7 am to 7 pm
Bhuj airport is 3.8 kms away and the railway station is 2.7 kms away from Darbargarh Palace complex.
This mirror palace was added to the complex in the 18th century, during the reign of Maharao Lakhapatji. It was designed by the legendary Ramsinh, who survived a shipwreck off the coast of East Africa, reached Europe, and over 17 years learned skills such as shipbuilding, stone-carving, glass-blowing and tile-making, and eventually introduced them to Kutch.
Damaged in the earthquake, Aina Mahal is still the prettier of the two palaces. The hall of mirrors would have, in its heydays, put Oriental and European palace rooms to shame. Even today, lined with stained white marble, mottled mirrors and fading daguerreotypes, it awes visitors.
Entry: Adult INR 20: Photography INR 30
Timings: 9 am to 12 pm; 3 pm to 6 pm. Closed on Thursdays and public holidays.
Bhuj airport is 5 kms away and the railway station is 3 kms away.
Established in 1877, the museum is the oldest in the state. It houses a treasure trove of sculptures, paintings, ethnological exhibits, textiles, bronzes, stone inscriptions, wood carvings among many other artefacts. The Bhartiya Sanskriti Darshan (or the Folk Arts Museum) has a collection of local textiles and artefacts. Also visit the Sharad Baug Palace, which is built on the beautiful grounds.
Entry: INR 5 for adults; Photography: INR 100
Timings: 10 am to 1 pm; 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. Second and 4th Saturday and Wednesdays closed. It is closed on all government holidays.
Bhuj airport is 3 kms away and the railway station is 4 kms away from the museum.
Depending on the time of the year, Hamirsar Lake, in the western end of Bhuj, may be dry and therefore largely deserted, or full of water. Many historic stuctures are walking distance from the lake. Walk along the lake's eastern side to reach Aina Mahal and Praga Mahal, the Kutch Museum, the Ramkund Stepwell and Ram Dhun Temple, and the Swaminarayan Temple. Bhuj airport is 4.4 kms away and Bhuj railway station is 4 kms away from the lake.
With a range of diverse but syncretic communities, Bhuj and Kutch region are one of the biggest hubs of crafts and textiles in the country. Encompassing all that is this rust-coloured complex which houses a stunning crafts museum, showcasing the embroidery work of tribal communities.
The museum has a gallery, a library and three craft studios. The gallery displays change from time to time, highlighting a variety of crafts, from textiles to pottery, metal, wood and stone. The LLDC complex is a must-visit --- an artisanal destination, as an example of women's empowerment, and as a study in syncretism.
The complex is a tranquil place, with mango and chikoo orchards. Most of the time you will see women at work, talking to each other as they swiftly stitch away. After you are done with the museum, you can take a break at the open canteen for local fare such as millet rotis or phulkas with the best ghee ever, poha or dhokla, Gujarati dal and delicious chaas.
Entry Fee: INR 50 for adults; INR 20 for children
Timings: 10 am to 6 pm; Closed on Mondays and public holidays
Bhuj airport is 18 kms from Shrujan LLDC; Bhuj railway station is 15 kms away. You will easily get a public transport to reach the centre. You can also hire a taxi.
Home to India’s largest saltpans, these raw and ethereal white exapnse as far as your eyes can see and are home to numerous wild inhabitants. Additionally, what adds a splash of colour to the white crackling carpet, is hamlets of indigenous tribes.
The Rann comes alive in the winters with the annual Rann Utsav, and is best timed with the full-moon night when the Rann looks splendid in the white light. This festival is a brilliant showcase of the region's culture with tasteful displays of music, dances, cuisines and crafts.
The White Desert permit costs INR 100. Bhuj is around 90 kms from the White Desert of Kutch. You will easily get a taxi or a bus from the airport and the railway station in Bhuj.
Mandvi (60 km)
Mandvi, a little seaside town with a beautiful beach, is south of Bhuj, on the southern shore of Kutch. It is also well known for its cottage shipbuilding industry and batik work.
For many centuries, Mandvi was a famous seaport in Kutch, having trading links with South Africa, Zanzibar, Malaysia, China and Japan, and the building of small ships has been going on here since the 16th century.
Shipbuilding
Shipbuilding takes place on Rukmavati river, which runs through the town. The ships are small and have a Dutch influence. You'll see workers busily creating structures from wood; you can climb up a ship and find someone who will explain the craft.
Mandvi Town Beach
This beach is frequented by locals in the evenings, who congregate here to relish the ragda patties and gol gappas, feed seagulls and enjoy their evening walk.
Vijay Vilas Palace
Also called Mandvi Palace, this elegant 20th-century structure was a residence of the erstwhile rulers of Kutch. The red sandstone palace stands out elegantly on 450 acres of garden, near the beach.
Entry Fee: Adult INR 20; Camera INR 50
Timings: 9 am – 1 pm; 3 pm – 6 pm (All days)