"This was the Queen's hidden route to take when she had to arrive at the sabha (royal court)," said Kunta Bai, head of housekeeping at the Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel. She was giving me a personally guided tour of the royal property, with stories about all its nooks and quarters. Kunta Bai had been with the family for over 40 years, having also raised Prince Yeshwant Rao Holkar, son of Prince Richard Holkar who restored the fort to its current state. "You can ask me anything you want to know about this place," she gave me an indulgent smile before leading the way.
Living in the Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel, Maheshwar, for three days was nothing short of living a fairytale. In the small riverside town of Maheshwar in Madhya Pradesh, the former residence of Queen Ahilya Bai Holkar has now been turned into a grand heritage hotel, resplendent with all the markings of royalty. The Queen, who ruled here from 1765 to 1796, built Ahilya Wada, her personal residences, offices, and durbar audience hall, within the fort. The project was the brainchild of Prince Richard Holkar who supervised everything from the design and interiors of the rooms to the menu.
The ancient sandstone fort licking the steps to the river stood tall and welcoming. You could get lost in the recesses of this 18th-century fort, but no sooner than you think you might have taken a wrong flight of steps that a friendly staff member would be there to assist you. The experience at Ahilya is unlike any you would find in a luxury hotel. Your itinerary is planned keeping your preferences in mind-- the kind of dietary preferences you have, your schedule should you have anything else planned, and anything you would require to be accommodated during your stay.
I nested in the Narmada suite; the beautiful, river-facing room was sprawling, airy and exactly fit for a queen. On my first evening, a sunset boat ride across the Narmada River set the tone for the rest of my stay- a balmy, indulgent weekend. We sailed to the lone, floating Baneshwar temple in the middle of the river, lit diyas and dropped them in the water (I succeeded in the second round without extinguishing the flame), and watched the riverside burst into twilight hues of pinks and oranges to the resounding Narmada aarti.
Upon arriving at the hotel, a two-hour drive from the Indore airport to Maheshwar, a warm wet towel and refreshments later, a sumptuous lunch awaited me. I found much respite from the stifling summer heat in the cold butternut soup, which was followed by a refreshing chicken salad. The dining area, called Poshakwada, used to be the room for keeping royal costumes. It was rather intimate, with only two low tables surrounded by cushy chairs. The bigger table could seat six people, and a family was in the middle of their meal when I entered and took my place on the two-seater by the window overlooking the lawn. The standout dishes for me were the absolutely delightful onion tart and the banana upside-down cake served with cream, which, I was told, was the crowd favourite.
There is a set menu that has a mix of local and continental cuisines with some of the most delicious signature desserts that you can try. On my last night, I was served piping hot gulab jamuns, so soft that they broke down at the slightest nudge from the spoon. I enjoy a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream with my gulab jamuns, so I asked the wait staff if that could be arranged, and they immediately obliged.
There is also an apiary at the property, and you can indulge in some fresh honey from their organic farm during your visit. Prince Richard Holkar's handmade recipes of mulberry and mango jams, the famous Batteesi chutney (made from 32 ingredients) and varieties of pickles were among the many highlights of my stay. Their subtle, elegant flavours made with regal flair perfectly accompanied the curated menu.
In my room, little pockets of light filled the entire area, filtering through big windows, small ventilation holes and mesh openings. The first morning, I woke up and saw the holy Narmada from the window right across the massive bed. The small town sounds, children diving into the cool waters, women washing clothes and men praying were enough to take me back to my own childhood with many such mornings spent on the ghats of Ganga in Prayagraj.
Each room at the hotel has its very own personality with eccentric names based on what surrounds the area. For instance, my suite was fittingly called Narmada, with a balcony overlooking the river and offering undisturbed views from various windows throughout the rooms. The remaining 18 rooms were named Kachnar, Gulmohar, Champa, Bulbul and so forth, after the trees that clambered around them and the birds that would visit. Besides the Narmada suite, two others stood out: the Haldi suite and the Hawa Bangla. The Haldi suite used to be Queen Ahilya Bai's private room, with most of her old furnishings still in place, while the Hawa Bangla has a convex wall of glass jutting out with latticed borders that gives the most stunning view of the Narmada. The Hawa Bangla used to be Prince Richard's original bedroom when he began restoring the fort in 1971.
Most of the furniture at the property has been repurposed or preserved in its original state. The heavy wooden cabinets, desks and chairs have all been polished to perfection, retaining their original shine. "These used to be rifle holders," Kunta Bai pointed to a wooden towel rack. There were many such curious little things I discovered around different rooms. Old, broken armours brilliantly used as wall hangings, a spunky bedside table repurposed from an old chamber pot such that you will never know unless you take it apart, nagadas (big Indian drums) used as ornaments for interiors.
The very well-stocked library had books on wide-ranging topics. Overflowing cabinets, filled shelf for shelf with first editions and signed copies, enough to make any avid reader salivate. If you fancy a quiet afternoon, make use of your ennui by indulging in an obscure paperback or playing one of the many board games in the library. It is an ideal place to stay with family.
There is a no-plastic policy on the property. You will not find plastic bottles for your toiletries or plastic straws in the dining area. There are solar panels on the property used for clean energy, and all the water consumed goes into a waste-water treatment plant, which is then reused in the gardens on the property.
Highlights: Do not miss the renowned lingarchan puja at the courtyard temple of the property, a ritual dedicated to Lord Shiva that has been performed without a break since the days of Queen Ahilya Bai Holkar's reign. You can witness 11 priests mould tiny clay parcels into shivalingams and use them to create a sacred design every morning between 9 am and 11 am.
Do Not Miss: Lunch by the plunge pool and some of the most invigorating massages at the in-house spa.
Getting There: Fly to Devi Ahilya Bai Airport in Indore and drive down to Maheshwar, which takes approximately two hours.
Tariff: Starting at INR 22,000 (plus taxes).
For more information visit https://ahilyafort.com/