The t&oumllt is the characteristic ambling gait of Icelandic horses, the unique breed you find in Scandinavia. I had the opportunity to experience their unexpectedly smooth motion on my horse-riding trip in northwest Denmark. These pony-sized horses&mdashwho are surprisingly strong for their stature&mdashwere brought to Scandinavia by the Vikings, and bred in isolation for over a thousand years.

My steed was named Fagur&mdashhis name meant picture and he truly was a picture-perfect Icelandic his coat was a seal brown colour and his mane thick and long, falling so densely over his eyes it was a wonder he could see. For four days we rode on windswept moors, over heather-clad dunes, along wild North Sea beaches and through sun-dappled forest trails. Fagur loved speed. He would t&oumllt or canter if I gave him the slightest sign&mdasha gentle squeeze with my ankles. And the moment we were on smooth terrain, he would break into a gallop&mdashand sometimes even the flying pace, the other unique gait of Icelandic horses. He would go so fast, his legs would become a blur.

I was on a luxury horseback holiday organised by Jesper Finderup. In the mornings, we would explore different paths and trails. We would stop at forest clearings where Jesper&rsquos wife Rikke, a gourmet chef, would meet us with delectable picnic lunches.

Back at Jesper&rsquos farmhouse, the evenings would begin with champagne, wine and sumptuous snacks. We would sit out on the patio drinking, nibbling and chatting until we were called inside for a delicious candlelit dinner. The day would end with a trip to the beach for dessert, topped by a late-hour sunset. The Finderups truly gave us a taste of hygge (or fun) and Nordic luxury&mdashwith generous helpings of friendship.