For anyone who has lived in Kolkata for long, Durga Puja is more than just a religious affair. Preparations for the coming year begin almost as soon as the current Pujo is over and hence, Durga Puja is a way of life for the people of Kolkata. The five days of celebrations are a heady mix of food, love, culture and a good dose of lively chaos.
Most festivals in India share and support a single concept. They might be multi-lingual or multi-cultural but they all have one unique common quality i.e. binding communities. "It's an opportunity for communal bonding, and Durga Puja is one such festival," says well-known radio jockey, a television anchor and actor, Mir Afsar Ali.
There several small aspects that give Durga Puja its present identity - from the actual Pujo, the adda sessions, to the food. You cannot miss Kolkata's food, especially during Pujas, if you consider yourself a serious foodie.
The day of an average Bengali during this period begins with several bhars of tea, at least two different newspapers, a few radhaballabhis (yes, those deep fried stuffed beauties) with cholar dal (Bengal style gram lentil, sweetened like the average Kolkata population). It's hard work for the local or para (neighbourhood) sweet shops but during Pujo, they tend to get the combination ready as early as 7am (sometimes even earlier) so people can fill themselves up after a long night of pandal-hopping. Here's a full day's guide to the best food in Kolkata during Durga Puja 2024:
If you find yourself in Kolkata, some noteworthy places to try the famous Bengali breakfast are Sri Hari Mistanna Bhandar in Bhowanipore, Mrityunjoy Ghosh and Sons on Sarat Bose Road, and the famous Nandalal Sweets in Sukia Street.
Luchi is another typical breakfast item in Kolkata. Most holiday breakfasts include a plate of luchi with aloo dum. But, somehow, other than Bengali fine-dining restaurants, like Bhojohori Manna or 6 Ballygunge Place, luchi is not usually found in any general shops whereas radhaballabhis can be found aplenty. The Durga Puja bhog too always includes luchi, but more on that later.
Breakfast done and dusted, it is time for adda. What is adda? In other words, it is when you sit with a bunch of friends and have hearty discussions about almost everything under the sun—from politics, food, music to football. And before you know it, it is time for the lunch. The quintessential fish thali (sometimes with meat) is always a good option.
Most good restaurants in Kolkata prepare their own version of the set lunch (rice, dal, fish, vegetables and aloo bhaja) along with an a la carte menu. But let us not forget the typical Bengali 'pice' hotels (with the freshest catch of fish and rice served on a banana leaf). They give restaurants stiff competition by serving equally scrumptious fares at a fraction of the price. Few noteworthy 'pice' hotels in the city are Adarsha Hindu Hotel in Gariahat, Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel in College Street and Siddheswari Ashram near New Market.
At the neighbourhood Durga Puja, the insiders (members) or who have given chanda (i.e. donation) are entitled to get the Prasad of the goddess aka bhog. It is usually khichuri with labra (prepared with a mix of vegetables) and porebhaja (fried vegetables). However, even if you arrive at the time of bhog distribution, it is most likely you will be served bhog even if you are not on the list. It is Durga Puja, after all, and the bhog is a massive affair.
The evening starts with the arati (in front of the goddess) and the gathering soon shifts to somebody's residence. Snacks are devoured while another session of adda begins. Mostly chanachur and potato chips rule but a couple of Bhetki fish fingers never hurt anyone. And that is how the locals get ready for a night of revelry, food and pandal-hopping.
On most days, the dinner formula is simple—RBC. What, you ask? RBC translates into Roll, Biryani, and Chowmein, mostly from roadside vendors. The Kathi roll is such an important way of life for the locals. It's a rolled-up paratha with egg and little chunks of meat smothered with sauce, onions, and lime juice. Rolls shops are aplenty, but one can check out Nizams and Baadshah at Esplanade, Kusums on Park Street, and Bedwin at Gariahat for the best food in Kolkata during Durga Puja.
Biryani here means the Kolkata style—ittar flavoured with a huge chunk of potato, without which the dish is a strict no-no. However, one can give the biryani a miss during Durga Puja because shops tend to make it in massive quantities, and it never turns out the way it usually tastes on regular days. However, in case you want to taste it, head to Shiraz at Mullickbazar, Zeeshan at Park Circus, Mezban at Ripon Street, or Royal at Chitpur.
Chowmein a.k.a hakka noodles are mostly prepared at the roadside stalls along with rolls. Some even use a strange mix of spices which can include five-spice powder and leftover chicken gravy while heading to proper Chinese restaurants, the locals love devouring the roadside variety during the Pujo from the many lanes and bylanes of the city.
In between this chaos, please do not forget the lifeline of us Kolkatans - sweets. We love sweets. We eat them when we are sad, we eat them when we are happy, and we eat them on any occasion, basically. Varieties of sandesh is usually the main choice but never forget the ones dipped in syrup or coated with sugar. Head to Bhim Nag's in Bow Bazar for ledikini, Girish Chandra Dey and Nakul Chandra Nandy near Girish Park for sandesh and of course KC Das for the rosogolla.
So, on this happy note, come to Kolkata during this Durga Puja and we promise you a gastronomic experience you are not going to forget anytime soon.