The style of cuisine known as "Indian Chinese" has its roots in Kolkata. People from the Hakka and Cantonese communities started coming to India in the 18th century to work in a sugar mill under the British. These immigrants began selling dumplings, dim sum, noodles, and rice as street food to sustain their families. Over the years, a distinct style of Chinese cuisine suited to Indian palates emerged, blending Chinese cuisine with Indian flavours and spices (also, many ingredients found in China were not available here). One example of this mash-up and adaptation is Chicken Manchurian, which is ubiquitous on the menus of Indian Chinese restaurants, and one of the most popular Chinese dishes in India. Nelson Wang, a third-generation Chinese chef born in Kolkata, invented the dish.
Kolkata probably has one of India's highest concentrations of Chinese food eateries-from street stalls around Dalhousie Square serving chow mein and chilli chicken to office crowds and more upmarket places. Here are five places in Kolkata (some eateries are decades old) that are run by the community where the food is excellent. The bonus You get a taste of the rich heritage of Kolkata's Chinese community.
Tung Nam Eating House
Located in the overcrowded Poddar Court area in central Kolkata, Tung Nam has traditional Chinese decor with simple red tabletops. Try the pork captain made with giblets, the succulent yam wontons (steamed wontons topped with vegetables), and the mixed da lu mian.
Address 24, Chatta Wala Gully, Poddar Court, Tiretti, Kolkata, West Bengal 700012
Ah Leung
This tiny, unpretentious place in Tangra is known for its Chinese breakfast. They are well-known for their shingara chow (the term refers to the wontons that resemble shingaras, the Bengali word for samosas). A Chinese family runs the establishment from their home in Kolkata's former Chinatown.
Address 119, Tangra, Kolkata, West Bengal 700046
Eau Chew
Achumpa Huang, a Chinese immigrant, established this family-run eating house, which is considered to be one of the oldest Chinese eateries in the city. The dishes here have been created with secret family recipes passed down through generations. They are famous for their chimney soup, roast pork chilli, and Josephine Noodles.
Address 12, Ganesh Chandra Avenue, Esplanade, Chowringhee North, Bowbazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700013
Sei Vui
This restaurant is in a historic red brick structure on Black Burn Lane in Tiretta Bazar that dates back to 1896. It used to be a hostel for workers from China's Sei Vui village who came to work in Kolkata. The restaurant's name is etched in Chinese on a wooden plaque that was once part of an old temple door. Their sui mai, Vietnamese rice paper rolls, and the Cha Jang Mein Pork are worth a try. After your meal, pay a visit to the Yune Leong Futh Church, which is located next to the eatery.
Address 17, Black Burn Ln, Opposite Telephone Exchange, Tirretta Bazar, Poddar Court, Tiretti, Kolkata, West Bengal 700073
Breakfast At Tirretta Bazaar
You will have to wake up at the crack of dawn to have the famous breakfast in the Tiretta Bazaar area. Get there early, or you will find that the food is sold out. Various street stalls sell everything from light broths with greens and meat to fish ball soup. Steaming platters of bao, soft bread with a range of hearty fillings such as pork, seafood, herbs, Chinese greens, black fungus, and even sweet plum stuffing, are also available. Chinese sausage is a popular item. You can also get ready-to-fry prawn chips with red borders, dried Chinese greens, strings of plump Chinese sausages, and handmade sauces to take home. Read more about it here.
Cover photo credit Deposit Photos