While Durga Puja in Kolkata is known for its glitz and glamour, the neighbouring districts of Howrah and Hooghly are also not far behind. If you want to avoid the pandal hopping crowd in Kolkata, why not check out some of the popular Durga Pujas orgnaised by the traditional households in the districts.
Here is our top five from Howrah and Hooghly. But once there, you may check with the local people and visit the notable community pujas held in the vicinity.
A word of caution Road traffic can be an issue therefore it is best to start early.
Goswami Bari, Serampore
A little over 30km from Kolkata by road, Serampore is known for its educational and cultural heritage. This former Danish colony is a popular day visit spot from Kolkata. Although there are several families who has been holding Durga Puja for centuries, the one at Goswami Thakurbari is a must see. Durga Puja is held on a pavilion to one side which is fronted by a grandly colonnaded courtyard. The house is also known as a population location for the shooting of many Bengali and Hindi language movies.
Datta Bari, Chinsurah
Located about 35km north of Kolkata and located on the bank of Hooghly River, Chinsurah was once a Dutch colony. There are quite a few traditional households (bonedi bari) here who have been holding Durga puja for the past couple of centuries. Around mid-19th century, Datta Bari pujo was initiated by Sagarlal Datta, a businessman, who prospered by trading in jute. Here the goddess is in her benign form but has two lions instead of one.
Bose Bari, Chandannagar
About 50km north of Kolkata, Chandannagar, which was also a French colony in the yesteryears, is better known for its Jagaddhatri Puja (an incarnation of Durga and held almost a month later). But if you look around, the old township has many traditional households celebrating Durga Puja for centuries. The Bose Bari Durga Puja (in Khalisani area) is over 500 years old. With reverence to their family deity of Madanmohan (Krishna), Vaishnav rituals are followed for Durga Puja too.
Andul Raj, Andul
Located in Howrah, this palatial building is less than 20km away from Kolkata by road. The household festival started in the 1770s, halted for quite a few years, and then resumed. There is a separate thakurdalan (courtyard) where the puja is organised. It is advisable to check if permission is required to have a look around the old palace.
Kedar Bhavan, Bally
Less than 20km by road from Kolkata, this is one of the older towns of Howrah district. The family is said to be holding the festival here since 1878. The family is known to have patronised a lot of social and cultural activities in the 19th century. Also known as Masterder Bari, the building is a nice example of the 19th century architectural style of Bengal. They too follow the Vaishnav rituals.