City Breaks

Landour How to Spend the Perfect Day in Mussoories Best-Kept Secret

This scenic hill town is the best getaway for slow travellers

Antaraa Chatterjee

A charming cantonment town surrounded by lush deodar forests, scattered tourists strolling about the wind-blown roads, with enduring cottages standing sentinel over you - when you are in Landour, time becomes your best friend. The unassuming charm of Landour lies in its slow pace of life. Away from the hustle of city life, Mussoorie&rsquos best-kept secret is the best place to unwind over the weekend. Besides being a brilliant weekend getaway, this small picturesque town is also home to writer Ruskin Bond, offers the best peanut butter and chocolate crepes, and a prime seat for watching the sunrise. 

How to Get There

Landour is a little over 30 kilometres from Dehradun, which takes about two hours by road. The climb is moderate and easy to navigate. There are no direct flights or trains to Landour the best way to reach it is by hiring a cab from Dehradun or driving yourself if you have a car. 

Where to Stay

There are a number of cosy homestays and hotels in the area that you can check in to. You can also book a hotel in Mussoorie if you like the constancy of bustling crowds around. In Landour, these are some of the hotels and cottages that you can stay in

Rokeby Manor-&nbspA heritage hotel in the heart of the city, Rokeby Manor comes with rustic rooms and access to the in-house tea garden. They also have grand suites and individual cottages that you can book. Single rooms start from Rs. 6800 per night, inclusive of breakfast. You can visit their website&nbspand check availability. 

La Villa Bethany-&nbspAn eco-friendly six-bedroom boutique homestay, La Villa Bethany is situated near the Kellogg Memorial Church. Take your pick between the two-bedroom suits with a private terrace and a cosy cabin that can house up to five adults. Go sit in the shared conservatory to look at the night stars of the Doon valley, or find your corner among the many books at the study for reading and working. This family-owned homestay uses rainwater-harvesting techniques and solar energy to heat water and cook food. Doubles, including breakfast and dinner, start from Rs. 4500. Visit their website&nbspfor details.

Domas Inn-&nbspA little ways ahead of Char Dukaan, Domas Inn is a charming little hotel with Asian interiors and a quirky d&eacutecor that makes you think you are in an antique shop more than at a hotel. The Ivy café downstairs serves continental food and a refreshing set of beverages. Doubles start from Rs. 3000 per night. You can check for prices and availability on their website 

Itinerary

Landour is a small, sleepy town that you can explore in a day. You don&rsquot have to rush into going sightseeing or making a set itinerary. The best way to explore the suburb is on foot, so pack a well-worn, comfortable pair of shoes and get walking. You can also rent bicycles and wheel around, taking in the sights at your own pace. 

- Start your day by going up to Lal Tibba, the combined highest point of Mussoorie and Landour, to watch the sunrise. During winter months, you can also catch the dazzling pink-orange colours of the winter line from this vantage point. 

- Have breakfast at Char Dukaan. The little joints serve everything from freshly brewed coffee to masala chai, and you can choose between a variety of fares like sandwiches, stuffed parathas, Maggi, and momos, among a number of others. 

- Start walking. Take the winding roads and photograph your way towards the Kellogg Memorial Church and the Christian cemetery. Keep your eyes on the cottages and bungalows for a peek at Ruskin Bond&rsquos ancestral home- Ivy Cottage along the way. You will also pass by veteran actor Victor Banerjee&rsquos English-style cottage- another scenic pitstop for your scrapbook. Shop for trinkets at Sister&rsquos Bazaar and refuel at the many cafes there. 

- You cannot miss Landour Bakehouse, just a few turns ahead of the Kellogg Memorial Church in Sister&rsquos Bazaar. Their menu is a series of immortalized recipes from the town&rsquos colonial-era residents. Every item on the menu has the name of its creator prefixed so you may know whose recipe you are savouring. 

Must order&nbspTheir lip-smacking peanut butter and chocolate crepes for a mere hundred rupees. A Prakash & Co. next door, famed for their peanut butter and fruit jams, was established in the 1920s. After the English left, Mr. Prakash&rsquos son Inder took charge, acquiring the equipment and learning recipes from the American missionaries for peanut butter, jams and cheeses. Landour Bakehouse uses their famous peanut butter for many of the recipes on its menu. It is now run by Inder Prakash&rsquos son, Anil, who has expanded the business and made the bakery even more popular among tourists and locals. Be advised that you might have to get in line to sit inside. 

Best Time to Visit

Landour can be visited throughout the year as the weather is generally favourable for all seasons. This idyllic suburb of Mussoorie has typical hill town weather with pleasant summers accompanied by mild mornings and cooler evenings. Winters are chilly with frequent snowfall, sometimes more than Mussoorie. 

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