Intoxicating Marrakech is as boisterous as it is beautiful. An enthralling city of contrasts, its labyrinthine streets of burnished sandstone invite exploration, prompting most to make straight for the medina after stepping off the plane, flitting among the crowds in the souks of spice merchants, leather sellers and lantern makers for a sense of its historic Berber origins.
Where To Eat
Flaky pastries chased with refreshing mint tea hearty tagines zinged up with candied lemon couscous infused with herbs and plump apricots the Marrakech dining scene offers a true melting pot of Arabic, African and French flavours, with dazzling offerings from further afield, too (try Plus61 for local ingredients served on an Aussie-inspired menu). The city's main currency is tableside hospitality, from street-food stalls to rooftop terraces via under-the-radar eateries. Here's where to get your fill.
Nomad
Situated just off spice square Rahba Lakdima, Nomad café is spread across four floors, but it's the terraces (particularly at sunset) you'll want to make a beeline for. With views of the surrounding medina and the Atlas Mountains, dining spots don't come much better - or busier - than this. Formerly an old carpet store, the building's interiors nod to its past, with colourful woollen cushions and carpets peppered throughout. Expect modern Moroccan food, with standout dishes including the organic chicken marinated in sweet harissa and a hibiscus-infused panna cotta (the perfect pud).
Address 1 Derb Aarjan, 40000
Le Kilim
Le Kilim, in Guéliz, is open daily from 8 am to 1 am. Red zellige tiles dominate the space, with woven lamps and copper touches adding further decoration, while design details (cushions and stools, for example) dotted throughout nod to 21st-century Moroccan craftsmanship. Food-wise, there's the traditional breakfast - the shakshuka and pancakes stuffed with ricotta are both great - with lunchtime bringing falafel sandwiches and a tagine of chicken with candied lemon. We like it most come suppertime, though, for its relaxed ambience and the artistic crowd that rocks up for an evening meal and some great vin.
Address 36 Angle Tarik Bnou, Ziad et Rue de la Liberté, 40000
El Fenn
El Fenn is a must-visit in Marrakech, whether you're planning on bedding down there or just passing through. Come the golden hour, head out onto the vast rooftop terrace and lap up views of the Koutoubia Mosque, mojito in hand. The bar and restaurant are accessible to non-residents, with meals, bar snacks and drinks available from noon until 10 pm. Mediterranean-Moroccan menus are based on what's in season, and the jewel-coloured dining space is a real knockout. High above the medina, it's an enchanting setting where low-key romance is served on tap as twinkling stars kick in come nightfall.
Address 2 Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian, 40000
Marrakech's Must-Visits
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent was smitten with Morocco from his first visit in 1966. Cementing his connection to the city, Musée Yves Saint Laurent opened in 2017 next door to Jardin Majorelle - Saint Laurent's second home - as a homage to YSL's life and 40 years of creative work. Designed by Studio KO, the terracotta facade guards the designer's sketches, haute couture fashions - including the famed peacoat and Mondrian dress - and accessories, in addition to a 150-seat auditorium, research library, bookstore and terrace café.
Address Rue Yves Saint Laurent, 40000
Le Jardin Secret
It's not the best-kept secret in the city, but Le Jardin Secret remains a worthwhile pit stop. The riad-museum dates back to the 16th century, and the complex comprises two bountiful gardens an exotic marvel and a traditional Islamic display. The property, intended as a centre for sharing knowledge and the latest research on Moroccan and Islamic gardens, is also home to a rooftop café offering gloriously verdant views.
Address 121 Rue Mouassine, 40030
El Badi Palace
El Badi's crumbly majesty precedes it. Plans for this palace - constructed by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur in the 16th century - were grandiose, right down to the gold, turquoise and crystal paving, but its destruction in the 18th century and ensuing pillage left it a shell of its former self. Today, the ruined edifice has a stripped-back elegance - all bare rock, fragments of fallen pillars and rooms left wide open to the cerulean sky. Explore its expansive courtyard, sunken gardens and reflecting pools, all of which are surveyed by nesting storks.
Address Ksibat Nhass, 40000
MACAAL
Away from the main fray, on the city's outskirts, you'll find the Museum of African Contemporary Art Al Maaden (MACAAL). Worth the taxi ride, the independent, not-for-profit museum is dedicated to contemporary African art, with works on display presented across a diverse range of media. In addition to the permanent collection, regular exhibitions focus on art that engages in a dialogue with the continent, showcasing works by local and international artists.
Address Al Maaden, Sidi Youssef Ben Ali, 40000
Cover photo credit Shutterstock
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