Once upon a time it was another picturesque river flowing through lower plains of Bengal. Agricultural fields lay supine along its banks, interspersed with villages. Sometimes the banks would overflow, creating tales of sorrow. Writers ranging from Rabindranath Tagore to Bibhutibhushan Bandopadhyay have penned the different looks of the Ichamati River.
Then, one day, 75 years ago, the river became a trans-border entity a water line dividing India and Pakistan (formerly East Pakistan, now Bangladesh). People who lived on either side suddenly found neighbours turning into strangers, free movement restricted by political barriers. It was heart-breaking time for families who lived on either side, especially married women, whose parental and bridal homes were now in two different countries.
"Just Across The River", a 2022 movie directed by IPS officer and actor Prasun Banerjee, effectively caught this pain of separation on celluloid. According to media reports, Banerjee had drawn inspiration from his mother's situation her parental home was in Satkhira (now in Bangladesh) while she was married to a family who was settled on the other bank of the river in India.
Lying opposite to Satkhira in Bangladesh across the Ichamati River is the Indian town of Taki. About 70km by road from Kolkata, this flourishing settlement, part of West Bengal, has a long riverfront, which makes it a popular tourist destination from the city, especially in winter. But Taki can also be a day-long or overnight destination during Durga Puja.
In the older part of the town are the seats of many former landlord and merchant families. Although the earlier glitz has faded for most, many of these families have still managed to retain their festivals, including hosting Durga Puja. One of the most famous being that of Taki Rajbari. Durga puja in the family home of former Chief of Army Staff General Shankar Roychowdhury is also well known. You may hire a boat for a ride along the river but within the Indian side only. There is also a small patch of mangrove forest in a corner along the river's edge called Mini Sundarban (ticketed entry). There are scores of lodges along the riverfront apart from a private luxury resort.
Interestingly, on the day of Vijaya Dashami, as the idols are taken to the river for immersion, the borders are opened for a few hours. While nobody is allowed to enter the other country, boats are allowed to move up and down the river freely. Boat loads of people from both countries merrily greet each other and share food and gifts. It is a sight to behold. Boats carrying the idols also join the fun. It is a sight to behold. The expressions of joy of people bound by language and culture but separated by political whims.
As the sun goes down, it is time to return to the home country and border forces of both countries ensure no boats linger in the water. People retreat to the banks to watch the immersion of the idols and the fireworks. As the last flicker of firework dies down, the wait for the next year begins all over.
Taki is about 70km from Kolkata by the shortest route. Accommodation is aplenty but advance booking is required as it is a popular getaway from the city. Do note, this is a border town and it is advisable to follow all rules. Also, the opening of borders is dependable on various factors therefore it is advisable to check before planning.