India's ancient and mighty forts are keepers of its history, revealing the passion this land has flamed in the many who have adored it, killed to possess, and fiercely protected it. Here are four citadels of Goa, each containing deep historical value and will give you more than a glimpse of the state's rich past.
Offering unmatched views of the winter turquoise waters of the Arabian Sea is the old guardian of Goan shores, fort Cabo de Rama, one of the oldest in Goa. Smooth, winding roads clinging to the ghats of Goa will take you through charming Goan villages and lush forests to end at the intriguing, craggy, fag-end of Cola village, where the fort, locally known as Kholgad, is situated. Said to have been the seat of king Rama of the epic Ramayana, the fort later was under the Sunda Kings of Karnataka till 1763. It was then taken over by the Portuguese and renamed Cabo de Rama.
The wheelchair-accessible entrance, over a deep, dry moat, ends up in the large, well-maintained compound which houses the tiny Chapel of St Anthony (still used by locals), a barrack, and two springs. A walk-around of the fortified area will reveal cannons on crumbling bastions, which you would do well not to step on. The fort is vast, but a bit under-maintained, especially in its further corners, which more than makes up for the disrepair, with its unchallenged vibe of history and longstanding indigenous trees that harbour not only birds but also snakes and maybe a monkey or two. You may be encouraged to descend from the fort over a loose stony dirt path to the tiny Pebble Beach, but we suggest staying clear.
All the climbing and walking around the fort will ratchet up your appetite, which is easily satisfied by the cliffside seafood restaurants, such as the Red Crab and The Cape, Goa. Both restaurants serve succulent seafood in various cuisine styles, which you can enjoy along with striking vistas of the sea framing the coconut tree-lined cliffs.
Fort timings: 9 am to 5.30 pm
Entry Fee: Yes. INR 50 per person for Adults, INR 25 per person for Students, INR 10 per person on Sundays and Holidays. Free entry for children below 8 yrs of age
Best time to visit: October to March.
How to get there : Distance from Panaji is 60 km approximately on NH 66 and 41. Distance from Margao is 29 km approximately on NH 41.
In its adaptive reuse, the imposing Reis Magos fort in Bardez, now functions as a culture centre. Restored by INTACH and Helen Hamlyn Trust, at the tireless urging of the legendary and highly-awarded cartoonist Mario Miranda, Reis Magos lies at the confluence of the River Mandovi and the Arabian Sea. A short ferry-ride away, if you please, from Panaji. Even though it is not a large fort, the sheer enormity and skill of its build and location become apparent, even as you stand at the roadside and crane your neck to be able to view its pinnacle. Once only an outpost, albeit an important one, for the Adil Shahi Sultanate of Bijapur, Reis Magos was raised into a fort by the Portuguese in 1551. It was an important vantage point for them, and now it does the same for tourists on the lookout for "good views" and the Mario Miranda Gallery on this side of town.
The fort, with its ancient, dark, laterite-stone walls, was once a prison till 1993. Steep steps, tiny, dank cells, and chambers with openings in the floor (for pouring boiling oil on enemies) will not be your only takeaways from Reis. As always, in Goa, the panoramic views of the water chasing the land while the sky curls into the watery horizon become an unforgettable part of the experience.
Fort timings: 9.30 am to 5 pm
Entry fee: Yes.
Best time to visit: October to March.
How to get there : Distance from Panaji is 9.5 km approximately on the local road. Distance from Margao is 51 km approximately on NH 748.
Remarkably close to the bustling beaches and markets of the famous part of north Goa, fort Aguada was built by the Portuguese in 1612 to curb entry into River Mandovi. Once the most formidable of the Portuguese forts, it received its name from the Portuguese word aguada, or fresh or spring water sources, which are present inside the fort. It is said to be one of Asia's most important freshwater reservoirs. In Goa, one of the best spots to gaze at sunset, is from the ramparts of the Aguada fort in Candolim. However, the sun's setting does little to suppress the fort's location, as the fort's lighthouse is a beacon in the dark, visible as far as Mapusa and Aldona. Apart from the fort, a must-see is the Fort Aguada Jail Museum, situated below the fort, close to the water. The jail was in use till 2015, and before Goa's liberation, used to imprison freedom fighters. At the lower Aguada fort, to secure your foothold for a panoramic from the massive bastion jutting into the Arabian Sea, you will need to reach early in the evening. Aguad Goa, the newly repurposed historic site, is now transformed into a cultural center, seamlessly harmonizing the old and the new. Aguad invites the local community and visitors into a repurposed contemporary hub of museums, arts, recreation and delectable eateries with stunning views of the Arabian Sea and Mandovi Bay. With an outdoor jetty stage and a growing program calendar, Aguad is a year-round destination where history meets modernity, seamlessly weaving together stories of the past and present.
Fort timings: 8.30 am to 6 pm
Entry fee for Fort Aguada Jail Museum Yes. INR 200 each for domestic tourists, INR 400 for foreign tourists and INR 100 for Goans to enter the fort
Best time to visit: October to March.
How to get there : The Aguad Goa complex is easily accessible via a unique waterfront and pier, offering boat transfers to and from Panjim, as well as convenient road access.Distance from Panaji is 16.9 km approximately on local roads. Distance from Margao is 47 km approximately.
Set against the River Tiracol, it is considered the best-preserved fort of Goa. Built by the king of Sawantwadi, Khem Sawant Bhonsle, fort Tiracol, was seized by the Portuguese in 1746 and became a military bastion, guarding the mouth of the River Tiracol river. It has since then been through many avatars, some of them being as the rebel stronghold under Dr Bernardo Peres da Silva, the first Goan-born Viceroy of Goa, and then later the site of satyagraha - marches during the freedom struggle of Goa. In its latest rebirth, a large part of the fort houses a private boutique hotel, which you can use for your stay. However, fear not, for the rest of fort Tiracol is open to the public. Tiracol provides perhaps the best views of Arabian Sea and bird's eye view of the Querim and Kalacha beach.
Fort timings: 9 am to 7 pm
Entry fee: None
Best time to visit: October to March
How to get there : Distance from Panaji is 58 km approximately on NH 66. The distance is shorter by a ferry embarked from Querim/Keri. Distance from Margao is 90 km approximately.