Ananya Mukherjee vividly remembers the day she wore her mother’s Kanjivaram sari to her first job interview. “I needed something simple but elegant,” recalls the Hospitality PR and marketing professional, “It was my mother who suggested one of her Kanjivaram saris—an Indian lotus-pink with a maroon and gold zari border.” She has now amassed a collection of over 60 such saris, many of which have been handed down from her mother and grandmother.

Originating from the temple town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, the Kanjivaram is a testament to the enduring legacy of one of India’s most prized textiles. The tradition of weaving these saris began during the reign of the Chola Dynasty (9th to 13th centuries), but the craft truly flourished under the Vijayanagara Empire in the 15th and 16th centuries. Introduced by the Padmasaliyas, a Telugu-speaking silk-weaving community, Kanjivaram weaving became synonymous with quality and craftsmanship.

Kanjivaram saris are celebrated for their luxurious silk, traditionally sourced from the mulberry silkworms of Karnataka, and their intricate motifs, inspired by nature, mythology, and the temple architecture of the region. The use of gold zari, made with pure silver thread coated in gold, adds to the weave's opulence.

What sets Kanjivaram saris apart is their weaving techniques, especially the korvai and petni methods. Korvai, which translates to “contrast” in Tamil, allows for the distinct separation of the sari’s body and border, enabling the weaver to incorporate vivid contrasting colours seamlessly. Meanwhile, the petni technique is used to create the pallu by attaching a separate portion of silk to the main body using an elaborate weaving method, resulting in bold aesthetics.

Beyond their exquisite craftsmanship, the appeal of Kanjivaram saris lies in their timelessness. Recent innovations in the textile have made them more acceptable among modern women as daily wear.

Brands like Advaya, for instance, are leading this trend. Founded in 2010, Advaya was born from a desire to innovate within the traditional space of handloom textiles.

“We have a history of being court weavers to royal families for centuries,” says K.H. Radharaman, Founder and Creative Director, Advaya. “It was only natural that we would continue to push the boundaries of what could be done with Kanjivaram.”

One of their key innovations has been the introduction of linen-blended Kanjivaram saris, which made the traditionally heavy weave more wearable for daily use. Other innovations by Advaya include the use of khadi and organza.

Their "The Eternal Series" collection from 2020 features elaborate motifs and innovative weaving techniques that push the boundaries of what has traditionally been seen in Kanjivarams.

“We wanted to introduce elements that had never been seen before, like large-scale motifs and spaced-out designs,” says Radharaman. These saris, while modern in their aesthetic, still retain the core of what makes a Kanjivaram special—its rich silk, vibrant colours, and intricate detailing.

The evolution of the Kanjivaram is a testament to their enduring charm. However, purists aren’t too excited. “As a purist, I don’t like the blending of fabrics in traditional saris, particularly Kanjivarams,” says Kamayani Jalan, President, Delhi Crafts Council. “I understand that modern designers experiment with combining different fabrics and yarns to create contemporary saris; many people get excited about these modern combinations, and they do well in the market. But those of us who promote authenticity, don’t consider it the best approach. I wouldn’t go for a blend in a traditional sari, though I do appreciate linen saris, which are very popular right now and have their own tradition. But when it comes to Kanjivarams, I prefer to keep it traditional.”

For her, as for countless other women, the Kanjivaram is more than just a sari—it’s a symbol of her identity, heritage, and the timeless beauty of Indian craftsmanship.