"The most enjoyable day I have spent on earth mixed ecstasy of deadly fright and unimaginable joy"—that's how Mark Twain described his journey on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) in 1895.
Established in 1881, this engineering marvel offers a thrilling journey through picturesque landscapes, gaining elevation through loops, turns, and zigzags. Said to be Asia's oldest narrow gauge railway, it begins its 88-kilometre journey in New Jalpaiguri at a height of around 100 meters (330 feet) and ascends to Ghum at an impressive altitude of 2,258 meters (7,407 feet) before ultimately arriving in Darjeeling.
The train crisscrosses along the Hill Cart Road, which involves over 150 crossings, runs along loops tracing a full circle to finish some 20 feet higher, and manoeuvres the infamous Z-Reverse—moving forward, reverse, and forward again on a "Z" layout—to gain altitude.
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, affectionately known as the "Toy Train," has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999. It is part of the Mountain Railways of India, which consists of three remarkable rail routes in different parts of the country that were recognised as UNESCO World Heritage sites due to their historical significance and iconic infrastructure.
A Glimpse Of Life In The Foothills
Originally constructed between 1879 and 1881, this narrow-gauge train transported passengers and freight between Darjeeling and Siliguri. A significant revenue source during its early days, it played a crucial role in ferrying essential commodities such as grain from the plains to the hills while bringing back sought-after products like tea, oranges, ginger, and cardamom.
"In the early days, for almost everyone living uphill, the DHR was the best way to travel to the plains. The only other option was a bullock cart that involved a much longer journey," said Anirban Dutta, the founder of Darjeeling Walks, a community travel organisation. "It wasn't quite a 'toy train' back then; in 1910, the railway carried 1,74,000 passengers and 47,000 tonnes of goods in a year."
Today, the journey offers a refreshing change to those who prefer to immerse themselves in the Darjeeling hills enjoying the many interesting experiences it offers.
"Once, during the peak monsoon month of July, I journeyed on the DHR," he said. "Meandering through the dense green woods of Sukna, the narrow gauge track climbs up to Rong Tong; the men responsible for the track maintenance and brakes relentlessly work to keep the train moving. From the signalman, I heard landslides were blocking the way ahead. Some were worried that the train would be 'cancelled.' But the train passed through the narrow and quite impossible paths. The men responsible for the clearance got a standing ovation, and applause could be heard from the upper Z-reverse area."
The journey on the heritage railway is not just about the ride; it's an immersive experience. As you travel, you'll see the Officers' Institute and the steam engines at the Tindharia Workshop. You can stop at Kurseong Station and step into the restored Cafe De Central, a vintage cafeteria dating back to 1881, where you can indulge in a cup of flavourful Darjeeling tea.
The DHR is an inspiration for artists and writers. Kalimpong-based artist Rabindra Rai has created a series of paintings called the "Toy Train series," which depicts the iconic British-era steam engines amidst the lively backdrop of Darjeeling.
These artworks have been displayed in various art galleries across India. Rai's fondness for the DHR dates back to his childhood trips during the festival of Dasain (Dashera) to his maternal grandparents' home in Darjeeling. He recollects a popular children's rhyme that his mother used to sing to him, "Darjeeling ko sano rail hidna lai abo tyari cha..." (the tiny train of Darjeeling is now ready to leave). "These traditional children's songs related to the DHR have been cherished in homes across the hills for many decades," he said.
Rai previously worked as a Resident Manager at the Windamere Hotel in Darjeeling, where he encountered numerous friends and fans of the DHR from around the world. "A gentleman would head out after breakfast to capture photographs of the DHR as it moved along the tracks. He would sometimes pursue the train, while on other occasions, he would find a good vantage point and wait for it. During his prolonged waits, he said the locals would sometimes invite him to share their meals and entertain him with their stories about the train."
Over time, the heritage railway has built a strong following around the world. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway Society, a UK-based group established in 1997 by dedicated enthusiasts has over 800 members in 24 countries. It aims to raise awareness of, generate interest in, and support this historic railway.
Fading charm
Of late, however, the ceaseless construction of buildings and the relentless alteration of the landscape of the Darjeeling hills have left many disenchanted and reluctant to undertake the journey.
Nina Roy, an advertising and social media professional from Kolkata (53), finds little resemblance between the quaint steam-powered locomotive of her youth with its classy wooden interiors and the DHR of today.
"It leisurely wound its way through forests, providing passengers an almost tactile experience of the trees. At that time, there were few man-made structures along the route. Unfortunately, the magic of the experience is not quite the same."
TIMINGS
New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling
Departure - 10 am
Arrival - 5:20 pm
Darjeeling to New Jalpaiguri
Departure - 9 am
Arrival - 4:15 pm
TICKETS
First class chair car fare INR 1,400 per person
AC chair car fare INR 1,500 per person
You can also book one of their daily two-hour round trips from Darjeeling to Ghum, which passes a number of well-known sights and attractions. The train also stops at Batasia Loop for 10 minutes and at Ghum for 30 minutes where you can see the DHR Railway Museum. Entry to the museum is included in the fare. These trips start from 9.25 am. The last one is at 4.30 pm. The fare for the steam engine trip is INR 1,500 and INR 1,000 for the diesel engine.
BOOKING
Booking can be done online through IRCTC or by scanning a QR code
For more details, check dhr.in.net