On India's 74th Republic Day, two unassuming heroes from opposite corners of the country found themselves thrust into the national spotlight. Kapil Dev Prasad, a 70-year-old handloom weaver from Bihar, and Neihunuo Sorhie, a master weaver from Nagaland, were conferred the prestigious Padma Shri award, recognising their contribution to preserving their respective textile traditions. However, the achievements of these weavers does not quite portray the ground realities of the countless artisans who toil tirelessly in relative obscurity.
Dr Pritha Dasmahapatra, a UK-based, Kolkata-born gynaecologist and passionate explorer, has dedicated her efforts to unravelling the history and heritage of Indian textiles. Embarking on textile-based journeys across the country, she has engaged with artisans, documented their crafts, and ignited interest in hyperlocal tours.
In an exclusive interview with Dasmahapatra, we delve into her journey and vision for the future of Indian textiles.
What are some of the significant takeaways from your interactions with textile artisans?
We do not often realise how much the economy of India is reliant on textiles. It is the second largest employer after agriculture and is a massive source of sustenance for a large part of the rural population. It takes a village to produce one piece of fabric. When we discuss handloom products, we tend to only think of the weaver. There are many other steps in the process, like spinning and dyeing, which are almost always undertaken by other members of the weaver's family. During my travels, I found entire communities involved in textile production in different capacities. It is fascinating to watch.
How can mediums like photography and social media be leveraged to promote textile heritage and traditions effectively?
When I started documenting my craft trails on social media, I did not expect them to be so well received. I always mention the contact details of the artisans I visit, and without exception, every single one of them has reported accelerated sales since my videos were published. Social media is a powerful tool of the modern world, and when effectively used, it can have significant benefits.
What are the challenges faced by these communities and how can textile craft empower them?
Poor pay is undoubtedly the most significant challenge they face. A tribal weaver in the remote Kotpad region of Odisha told me they cannot afford the fabrics they make, which is immensely tragic—not just economically but culturally, too. The tribals originally made Kotpad for their consumption. However, because of rising costs, they must be content with polyester fabrics whilst their products are sold for a premium in urban markets. Handloom and handicrafts can uplift communities financially, but a fair trade system has to be implemented.
In India, handmade objects are considered commonplace, and producers struggle to find consumers willing to pay decent prices. This is partly because the tradition of handicrafts and handloom has been well-established in India for a long time, and these products are widely available. Hence, Indians may struggle to consider them as something special. But times are changing, and many customers now actively seek handmade textiles. There is also a massive market outside India that must be effectively explored.
What are some of the most valuable lessons you've learned about sustainability, ethical practices, and cultural preservation?
Through my travels and history lessons, I learned that artisans are the true protectors of traditions and environments. Craft knowledge is transferred through generations in communities that understand and love nature. They should be allowed to decide what is best. Traditional methods are almost always sustainable and ethical. But, traditional methods cannot cater to the demands of a fast fashion economy.
How do textiles reflect the unique cultural and traditional aspects of their place of origin?
Local sensibilities heavily inspire the design vocabulary of Indian textiles. Kanjivaram sarees, for example, bear motifs from stone carvings found in the many temples of the region. Tribal textiles have geometric patterns of flora and fauna that form an integral part of their lives. One can trace a place's history and geography by studying its textiles.
What role does textile tourism play in raising awareness and appreciation for India's textile heritage?
Based on the responses I have received for my craft-based travel content, textile tourism has a huge potential. Many textile centres in Rajasthan and Kutch have been doing it for a while. They are trendy among foreign tourists. It helps to create awareness and bring business. To encourage large-scale textile tourism, however, state governments have to step in to develop infrastructure.