As dawn broke across India on February 16, a beloved figure in the culinary scene faded away. Chef Imtiaz Qureshi, the 93-year-old maestro who reignited the age-old art of dum pukht (a slow-cooking technique), passed away in Mumbai due to old-age issues.
Qureshi's legacy extends far beyond his impressive list of accolades, including the prestigious Padma Shri award. His influence resonates not just in his iconic restaurants like Bukhara and Dum Pukht but also in the countless chefs he mentored and inspired. His dedication to his craft is carried forward by his five sons and two daughters, who operate successful restaurants in India and abroad.
A descendant of generations of khansamas, or royal chefs, who served the Mughal rulers and nawabs, Qureshi's culinary journey began at the age of nine. In the shadow of the British Raj, he entered the kitchens alongside his uncle, tasked with preparing meals for 10,000 soldiers. During the 1962 India-China war, Qureshi found himself at Krishna Caterers, responsible for feeding jawans in Lucknow. Here, he was entrusted with preparing a meal for Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru. The success of this solo culinary performance impressed Nehru so much that he commissioned Krishna Caterers to open the Ashok Hotel in Delhi.
Here, Qureshi's kebabs, biryani, murg mussalam, and a unique dal that would later become known as dal bukhara tantalised the taste buds of dignitaries and guests alike.
Later, his encounter with Ajit Haksar, the founder of ITC Hotels, proved pivotal. Recognising Qureshi's talent, Haksar hired him in the mid-1970s. At ITC, Qureshi's mastery of the dum pukht truly blossomed. Dishes like bukhara chicken and dal bukhara became synonymous with his name. His dedication to preserving and elevating his ancestral culinary heritage earned him numerous accolades, culminating in the prestigious Padma Shri award in 2016.
"Qureshi, known for his commitment to tradition, used copper vessels, shaping the culinary experience at ITC hotels. Nevertheless, since he belonged to a community primarily engaged in meat cutting and selling business, many purists in Lucknow viewed him as a butcher rather than a cook (bawarchi)," Pushpesh Pant, academic, food critic and historian, told OT.
"However, he addressed this criticism in a panel discussion. Qureshi asserted that only a butcher knows which meat suits each dish, the proper cooking techniques, the required cooking times, and the appropriate amount of salt. His perspective was indeed accurate," he added.
Furthermore, though originally from Lucknow, Qureshi embraced global techniques, recognising the advanced nature of Western cooking. Unlike others who hid their ingredients, he showcased them publicly.
"What set his food apart was its abstract nature—unpredictable and different from the conventional offerings in Delhi," said Diwan Gautam Anand, author and former Executive Vice President of ITC Hotels. In the 1980s, Anand was the banquet manager at ITC Maurya, while Qureshi served as the master chef. "He avoided common dishes like butter chicken or dal makhani, making each grain of rice or morsel of food unique," added Anand, the Founding Trustee of Cuisine India Foundation.
Not only this, when I inquired with Pant about the other distinguishing factors that set Qureshi apart, he said, "What was delightful about him is that he was not one to hide recipes or what he was doing; he was very self-confident."
Expanding on Pant's remarks, Anand pointed out that Qureshi distinguished his culinary creations by skillfully combining ingredients and using a distinctive blend of spices for each dish—a departure from the commonplace reliance on garam masala in traditional Indian cooking.
"Even his interaction with customers was unique. He embraced engagement, unlike many chefs who are often reticent. He wasn't just adept at wowing Punjabis with his meat-based dishes but also earned the appreciation of the Baniyas with his equally delicious vegetarian creations," he added.
In the end, remembering Qureshi, Pant remarked, "He managed to market Indian cuisine as a brand. ITC promoted foods of all kinds, but Qureshi brought fine dining from Avadh into fashion. He truly honoured the essence of national cuisine, instilling pride in our traditional dishes."
The passing of Qureshi sent shockwaves through the Indian culinary community. Chef Ranveer Brar, a Lucknow native himself, reminisced about his childhood filled with tales of Qureshi and the mythical kebabs he crafted.
"It was around 1999 when I worked as a trainee chef at the Taj in Delhi. I remember once taking the Rs. 3612/- I had earned for the month to ITC Maurya next door and trying out the Galouti Kebab. The fact that I was eating Imtiaz Qureshi's food in an ITC hotel was life-changing for me. Not only had he pulled the dum pukht technique out of Lucknow, he had given it a personality, an unmistakable refinement," Brar posted on Instagram.
In addition, Chef Sanjeev Kapoor, who hosted the hit TV show Khana Khazana, wrote on social media platform X, "Your culinary creations inspired many people and will forever be a source of comfort. Rest in eternal peace, Chef. Your legacy will never be forgotten." Chef Kunal Kapur, known for hosting and judging MasterChef India, also took to Instagram and posted, "His culinary legacy and contributions will forever be remembered and cherished. May his soul find eternal peace, and may his memory continue to inspire us all."