When I first think of Zurich, I don't expect it to be a hub for vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Yet, wandering through its charming Old Town and modern streets, I discover a vibrant meat-free food scene. It seems fitting for a city known for its social progress, especially with ETH Zurich fostering start-ups that innovate with plant-based 'meats.' While there are dedicated veggie restaurants, many places embrace flexitarians, featuring delicious vegetables with optional dairy or meat. From raclette to creative plant-based dishes, the culinary offerings in Zurich delight every palate.
I began my day with a much-needed caffeine boost at Roots, a delightful plant-based coffee shop conveniently located just three minutes from Zurich HB station. Energised, I set off on the exhilarating 187-step ascent to the tower of Grossmünster, a remarkable Romanesque church nestled in the medieval Old Town. The climb was well worth it; from the top, I was greeted by breathtaking views stretching from Lake Zurich's shimmering waters to the charming brown-tiled roofs below, framed by the lush hills in the distance.
Soon after, I took the tram to Zurich West, the city's trendiest neighbourhood, which is known for its rich shipbuilding heritage. The remnants of its industrial past linger, epitomised by a striking tower made from 19 stacked shipping containers. My first stop was Freitag, an innovative bag shop that transforms lorry tarps into stylish, sustainable totes. Next, I explored the lively street food stalls at Frau Gerolds Garten, enjoying the vibrant atmosphere, then strolled along the Im Viadukt—a chic enclave of boutiques, delis, and galleries nestled beneath 36 railway arches, which include a delightful market hall of farm shops.
No trip to Zurich West would be complete without indulging in a late lunch at Dar, the coolest plant-based hotspot helmed by the renowned Chef Zizi Hatab. Drawing from her Spanish and Moroccan roots, she crafts seasonal sharing menus filled with enticing dishes, from corn tostadas to decadent pancakes, making for a culinary experience that tantalises the senses. Zizi is transforming gastronomy with her innovative plant-based cuisine. In 2019, she opened her first restaurant, KLE, featuring a bold plant-based menu despite initial scepticism.
Nestled in the lively District 3 of Zurich, KLE boasts a diverse team that enriches the city's dining scene with a multicultural touch. The outdoor terrace offers a pleasant space for al fresco dining during lovely weather. Recently honoured with both a green and red Michelin star, KLE proudly claims the title of Switzerland's first plant-based restaurant to achieve this distinction, highlighting the chef's commitment to culinary artistry. Each dish at KLE reflects a focus on quality ingredients, such as the 'black pearl mushroom' paired with a sauce made from 25 locally sourced components, including Weggis lemongrass. The house bread, akin to Moroccan buns, is accompanied by an egg-free aioli crafted from 'aqua-faba,' Moroccan hummus, and distinctive pickled vegetables that demonstrate the chef's creative interpretations of traditional flavours. Sauerklee, a treasured ingredient in many cuisines, emphasises KLE's unique fusion of local and international culinary influences, offering diners an opportunity to engage with the chef's gastronomical heritage.
My experience at DAR next was akin to stepping into a culinary medley! The name 'DAR,' meaning "to give" in Spanish, perfectly encapsulates the essence of this establishment, which masterfully intertwines Moroccan and Spanish influences to create an unforgettable dining journey.
The menu is a vibrant tapestry of the freshest seasonal vegetables, artisanal bread that feels like a warm embrace for the palate, and desserts that could evoke tears of joy. I eagerly explored their imaginative offerings, such as the intriguing salted lemon mustard buns and the turmeric-infused roasted beets. For those seeking a heightened experience, I highly recommend indulging in the chef's selection – it presents a splendid array of snacks, entrées, and sweets that linger in one's memory long after the final bite. It is essential to secure a reservation in advance, particularly for their popular weekend vegan brunch, where the honeycomb-shaped pancakes are nothing short of sublime.
The adjacent Cocktail Bar also offers a selection of sustainably crafted vegan drinks. DAR embodies the philosophy of 'slow fast food,' allowing guests to relish homemade vegan burgers while honouring the principles of environmental stewardship. The atmosphere celebrates guilt-free indulgence, harmonising taste, tradition, and ethical dining into a profoundly gratifying experience.
I stumbled upon Cor on Weststrasse, a hidden gem that instantly captivates me with its cosy ambience. As soon as I walked in, the intimate atmosphere embraced me, setting the stage for an evening of exquisite wine and tapas. Zineb and Bernd Vogel's passion for Catalan cuisine truly shines through in their carefully crafted plant-based tapas and pintxos. The wine selection, predominantly featuring Spanish and French varieties, brings an elegant touch to the meal.
Each bottle tells a story, which only enhanced my culinary journey. Indulging in delights like stuffed peppers and 'pa amb tomaquet' showcased Cor's commitment to using organic, locally sourced ingredients—a detail that only heightened my appreciation for the food. What truly sets Cor apart is its innovative wine menu, which is continuously evolving to complement the diverse array of dishes offered.
I saved Zurich's most iconic establishment for last, taking a train to the city centre to dine at Haus Hiltl, the world's oldest vegetarian restaurant, established in 1898. The menu features hearty Swiss classics, cleverly substituting meat with comforting plant-based alternatives, including locally crafted pea protein options like pulled 'pork' burgers and 'bratwurst' served with potato rösti. However, it's the seasonal specials on the à la carte menu that truly captivate, with dishes like delicately braised beetroot risotto and refreshing celery apple soup.
If I couldn't decide what to try, the buffet offered the perfect solution, with 80 per cent of the dishes being vegan and pricing based on the weight of my plate. Dining at Haus Hiltl was a delightful culmination of my culinary adventures in Zurich. Today, Zurich's vibrant, forward-thinking spirit is beautifully reflected in its culinary scene. It's not just the incredible quality of local ingredients that makes the city a paradise for food lovers; it's also the creativity and passion that drive new ventures here.