In the heart of Lutyens' Delhi within the iconic Diplomat Hotel, NOE is poised to revolutionise the city's dining scene with its vibrant social atmosphere and pioneering approach to elevated comfort food. NOE is the latest culinary gem curated by Sandeep Bishnoi, a trailblazer behind acclaimed concepts like Perch Wine & Coffee Bar and Hoots. At the helm of this innovative journey is the esteemed Chef Dhruv Nijhawan, celebrated for his inventive cooking techniques and dedication to reviving rare, authentic ingredients.
Chef Dhruv brings a distinctive flair to NOE, crafting a menu that redefines comfort food through a blend of nostalgia and innovation. Each dish is a masterpiece, melding traditional comfort with creative flair, utilising lesser-known ingredients and sophisticated techniques. With a repertoire of over 20 cooking methods and a keen focus on artistic plating, NOE offers a culinary experience that celebrates a rich heritage of flavours.
Complementing this exceptional dining experience is NOE's creative highball cocktail program. Managed by Hoots—recently honoured as one of Asia's Top 50 Bars—the highball bar features a selection of refreshing, perfectly balanced cocktails crafted with premium spirits and house-made mixers. This showcase of creativity and craftsmanship elevates the entire NOE experience, making it a truly remarkable destination for both food and drink enthusiasts.
In an exclusive interview with Outlook Traveller, Chef and Author Dhruv Nijhawan does a deep dive into this new venture, his culinary philosophy, and everything about his love for food.
Please tell us about NOE and your role in it.
My name is Chef Dhruv Nijhawan. I am the Culinary Head at NOE. NOE is a restaurant that believes in delivering elevated comfort dining to our guests. We have taken inspiration from around the globe for the menu—techniques, ingredients, and everything from various parts of the world. We combine these with certain folklore, legends, and our own interpretations to create a unique story on our menu.
How long did it take for you to curate the menu, and what went into the process?
It took us about two months to ideate the menu. From the beginning, we knew we didn't want to open a restaurant with just rudimentary dishes that you can find in any café or restaurant in Delhi. We aimed to uplift the standards and offer something more to our clientele, but without venturing into fine dining. We wanted to create an elevated dining experience. My junior chef, Chef Sammy, who is the head chef of this property and has been my mentee for the last two to two and a half years, and I worked together to brainstorm and develop the entire menu.
What are the dishes on your menu that you are most excited for guests to try?
There are several dishes I'm excited about. Many of them are inspired by stories and folklore. For example, there's a dish called Cabbage and Tofu, which is a vegan dish that resonates with my childhood flavours. Another is Leek and Tamari, featuring succulent leek cooked with Koji. We also have Chicken and Jeow Som, which is a beautiful chicken satay served with a dip from Laos. These are three of my favourite dishes on the menu.
You focus primarily on plant-based cooking, and your cookbook also emphasises vegetarian meals. What led you to this focus, and why did you decide to prioritise vegetarian dishes?
I come from a Punjabi background, and I have eaten non-vegetarian food all my life. However, I switched to vegetarianism in 2008, mainly because I grew out of the texture of non-veg, though not the flavour. I decided to pursue a career in the kitchen and explored both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. Eventually, I reached a point where I wanted to focus on vegetarian offerings. While I do taste non-vegetarian for professional purposes, I am not a habitual eater of non-vegetarian food. When I go out, I prefer vegetarian food. My cookbook, titled Unapologetically Vegetarian, reflects my commitment to vegetarianism while acknowledging that I cook non-veg as part of my profession. I am unapologetic about my choice.
How would you say your culinary philosophy has evolved over the years?
My culinary philosophy has evolved significantly over time. Initially, my base was European and Spanish cuisine, which formed the foundation of my cooking. I now find myself experimenting with Indian ingredients while maintaining those culinary roots. For instance, at NOE, we use Kachampuli or black vinegar from Coorg instead of balsamic vinegar. We aim to use native and sometimes forgotten ingredients from India. While we are not strictly an ingredient-forward or Indian ingredient restaurant, my philosophy has shifted towards using local ingredients and supporting our own culture and ecosystem.
Can you recall any pivotal moments or turning points in your career that brought you to where you are now?
One significant turning point was when I was a commis (junior) at Qla, working under Chef Priyam Chatterjee. He once told me that in the French language, the kitchen team is called the Brigade because you need to work with the discipline of an army. It requires immense time, endurance, and passion. You won't survive in this industry if you're not passionate about it. That was the moment I realised this was my calling, and I decided to dedicate a significant part of my life to this profession and lead a brigade, which I am doing now.
Who are some of your culinary heroes and mentors who have influenced your cooking style?
Chef Priyam Chatterjee introduced me to the world of fine dining, which was a significant influence on my career. Additionally, Chef Mickey Bourdillat from La Mata'afa in Chamonix Mont-Blanc shaped a substantial part of my culinary journey. My biggest support and mentor throughout my life has been my father. He has supported me wholeheartedly in pursuing my passion for cooking and often conducts research about industry trends, sometimes even more than I do.
How do your cultural background and personal experiences shape the food that you cook?
Designing dishes that are not just rudimentary requires a story and personal connection. Good food, in my opinion, is created through emotion. Life experiences, upbringing, and aspirations inspire the dishes on our menu. This approach is common among many chefs who cook based on their experiences and life journeys, bringing out their personal stories through food, which I see as an art form.