I don’t really like being wedged into the window seat unless, of course, I’m guaranteed to see something special. Crossing the Arctic Circle to reach the far north of Finnish Lapland definitely met that criterion, and I eagerly took the window seat offered to me. During the two-hour flight from Helsinki, my eyes were glued to the unique aerial view of the tundra. I even think I could see the subtle curvature of the horizon as I gazed over the amber waves of grain towards the line that separates land and sky.
From a relatively cool -2°C in the capital, the temperature was predicted to plummet to -25°C in Levi. Frozen rivers and vast sheets of ice blanketed the land as it emerged from a long, dark winter (read: 24/7 night) and bitter cold (read: -40°C) into what now felt like normal winter days. We were approaching Levi, Finland’s most popular ski and adventure destination, at its busiest season, and the thought of some winter adventure on guaranteed powder sent an exhilarating chill up my spine.
Barely off the plane and armed with an obligatory wardrobe of thermals and snow suits, we sauntered off, Santa style, on a leisurely reindeer sled ride in the nearby Lapp village. With matted antlers that resemble a fanciful hairdo atop its head, this docile-looking animal is a hardy creature of the cold. I needed to stretch my legs and walk around the farm square, dotted with old barns and wooden huts, some over two hundred years old.
Levi alone boasts 240 kilometres of cross-country ski tracks, weaving through undulating flats with picturesque fells, while the more challenging black runs are always nearby. The tracks pass through small villages, like Lapp, offering skiers a chance to take a breather, stop for a coffee, or grab a bite to eat.
Our retreat for these two brief days is the Levi Spirit resort, nestled in a beautiful pine forest along the frozen Ounas River. The well-appointed villas epitomise understated luxury, perfectly in harmony with the surrounding woodland.
The pace of the adventure picks up dramatically as we head out snowmobiling after an excellent lunch of fresh Arctic tuna, grilled to perfection. Boondocking through the stunning Finnish countryside, we cross frozen lakes, swamps, and forests on ski-driven powered scooters, charting a fine hour-long route almost to our next stop. There, ice swimming (it’s not as masochistic as it sounds) and a sauna await as part of the ice adventure. My adrenaline is pumping after this most exhilarating ride, as we arrive at Sammun Tupa, Levi's oldest ski café, where we are welcomed by a traditional Yoikush performance—a form of Sami folk music and one of Europe’s oldest living music traditions.
Our lovely Finnish guide, Friida Turku, regales us with old tales of the sauna tradition in Finland as we muster the courage to take on the ice swimming challenge. While we don’t follow the Finnish custom of going nude in the saunas (which is actually more hygienic), skimpy Caribbean swimwear isn’t much of a match either—especially when it’s a steep walk, barefoot, to the smoke hole awaiting us in the frozen lake below. I’m admittedly energised by the idea that this rather odd-sounding tradition of alternating ice-cold dips with warm saunas gives an addictive energy boost by kicking the circulation into high gear. I manage the icy plunge without uttering expletives, but running towards the untouched snow and throwing myself into it to make "snow angels" sends me gasping back to the sauna. I must vouch for its effectiveness, though—I did feel a rush afterwards, though perhaps it was partly due to the beer I gulped before the dare.
Finnish cuisine often blends traditional and fine dining, and the stellar meal at the café above is ample testimony to this. With reindeer being a staple and fresh fish in abundance, the meal begins with an array of fish starters—excellent Arctic char tartare, raw pickled white fish, white fish roe, and smoked salmon. The main course of veal sausages and root vegetables feels incidental after this, at least for my somewhat spoiled taste buds.
Barely had I sunk into the warmth of my bed that night when my alarm sounded the sunrise call. Another beautiful day dawned as I froze my eyelashes, admiring the alpenglow rising above the riverside fell. A spot of dog sledding is next on the agenda as we drive through Lapp country, everything glowing in the beautiful light. My visit is timed between the extreme seasons, when the sun never really rises too high in the sky, casting a mellow light over the land all day long. In the summer months to follow, it won’t dip below the horizon at all, leaving the Finns in a perpetual state of illumination.
With 12 eager Siberian huskies harnessed to each old-fashioned wooden sled, Johanna, our musher, releases the brakes. Our sled soon takes to the wind, and all I can hear is the loud whooshing of the wind and the sound of paws crunching on snow as we bounce and glide through a narrow forest track at lightning speed. It opens up onto the vast frozen surface of Lake Munajarvi, beside which sits the charming village of Kongas. The huskies leap effortlessly over the frozen surface before we disappear into the magical woods once again. Suitably impressed and stirred by this Arctic mode of transport, we proceed to meet some of the friendly canines and wolves at the husky park.
The crisp, clean air and all the action whip up colossal appetites, and we dive into Tiikun’s fairy tale teepee (a dismantlable nomadic home) where she prepares a traditional Sami meal around her wood-fired hearth. Her grandfather, a reindeer herder like most Samis of Lapland, owned 10,000 reindeer. Old vintage photos of her family—Samis being the largest indigenous ethnic group in Europe—adorn the conical walls of her teepee. It’s a simple traditional Sami meal from the days when you ate to live, not the other way around, as not much can grow at these temperatures anyway.
We are served steamed shavings of veal, seasoned with nothing more than salt, on a bed of mashed potatoes, accompanied by some local beer. The dessert is another simple Sami delicacy: cheese flambé served with cloudberry preserve. When I ask Friida for the meaning of the poem engraved on my table, she quips, “Sami stories are a little crazy.” The poem reads, “The moon will show its bottom from behind the cloud, giving the crazy man a task for the night.” I muse that it probably stems from the Sami belief in the inseparability of man and nature. Tiikun regales us with stories of her ancestors—their shaman traditions, the Samis' deep connection to nature, and their unique ethnicity. In Lapland, nature belongs to everyone, so I can happily go berry-picking on someone else’s property without seeking their permission.
Tired but not beaten, I take the plunge for the final adventure on our list: Formula 1-style ice karting on a small-scale ice racetrack, where technical skill triumphs over speed any day. I quickly learn this lesson as I find myself manoeuvring slick icy corners on a surface with little grip. Racing to the finish line without bumping into someone is no small feat, especially for a speed junkie like me. We top off our two days in Lapland (which felt like five) with a mouth-watering meal, a lesson in evolution from Tiikun’s simple fare. We start with Crab Cappuccino, followed by a well-marinated veal and wild boar patty served with the perfect lingonberry compote.
For a country that wears its solitude like a prized gem—seeking it out even more than what its unique geography naturally imposes—Finland is an otherworldly, lonely place. You can sense it in the nooks and crannies and in the voices of the locals you speak to, though, as a visitor, it’s unlikely to affect you. It’s also the kind of solitude that makes you yodel in your sleep. As I float in the twilight zone that night, my vivid imagination conjures a vibrant display of eclectic colours running amok on the horizon. The aurora borealis is lurking somewhere in the night sky. Perhaps a window seat on the plane during the deep of a clear night will grant me the privilege of seeing it.
Finland is divided into four regions: Helsinki, Coast, Lapland, and Archipelago Lakeland. The most convenient way to reach these distinct areas is by air, with Helsinki-Vantaa Airport as the main international hub. It welcomes flights worldwide, including direct flights from Delhi, which take approximately 7 hours and 40 minutes. Finnair and Norra are the national carriers, alongside major international airlines like Qatar Airways and British Airways. While Helsinki is the primary airport for international travel, other airports mainly serve domestic routes.
Indian visitors need a valid passport and Schengen Visa to enter Finland and other Schengen countries.
The ski season in Finland runs from November to April, with the two main ski resorts, Yllas and Levi, located within an hour of each other. Skiers can conveniently hire equipment from Neon Sun (neonsun.fi). For a unique experience, visitors can enjoy reindeer rides, which range in price from INR 640 to INR 8,000 per person (lapinkyla.fi).
In addition to skiing, there are several other winter activities to explore, including ice karting (awa.fi/en), horse riding, snowshoe excursions, and ice fishing (levi.fi/en). Levi boasts an extensive network of 886 km of snowmobile routes, requiring participants to have a valid driving licence from their country. Prices for snowmobiling start at INR 6,000 per person (kinossafaris.com).
A highly recommended experience is the Northern Lights snowmobile night safari, which costs INR 9,000 per person for a 3-4 hour adventure (polestarsafaris.com/levi). Additionally, Levi husky park rides are popular and cost INR 4,200 per person (polar speed.fi).