Gandhi at a railway station in Bengal, 1946 Photo: Getty Images
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Rails Of The Raj

From its conception to its role in the nation's history, the British Indian Railways is a phenomenon marked as much by marvel as avarice

Waquar Habib

The history of railways in India is inextricably linked with British colonial rule. While the British laid down the tracks primarily for economic exploitation, administrative control and military logistics, its introduction led to significant socio-economic transformation, shaping the subcontinent's future through industrialisation.

But among its users, the railways invoked mixed opinions. While on one occasion, the great Mahatma Gandhi is seen observing that railways "accentuate the evil nature of man, just as a daisy accentuates the beauty of the grass," Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, is found to have a different approach to railways calling it the "a great unifying force. They have knit India together and have brought people closer."

While the British Raj remained limited to its quarters, segregated from the native populace, the railway tracks spread across the length and breadth—the seams and sinews of colonialism.

The plan to introduce railways was proposed as early as the 1830s, but it wasn't until the 1850s that the first trains started running. The construction was carried out by British engineers, using British capital and technology, often employing Indian labour under harsh conditions. For the British, the railways were a means to facilitate the export of raw materials and the import of manufactured goods, and the railways quickly became an integral part of the Indian landscape despite initial resistance from some Indian quarters.

The Change With Time

As with the earliest of films—watching which the spectators jumped out of their seats and left the cinema—railways commanded similar awe and fear in the people. The massive machines that chugged along the tracks fascinated and amused the Indian populace. Railways changed Indians' sense of time and distance. Travel that used to take weeks or months by road or river could now be accomplished in days. This new sense of connectivity fostered a greater understanding of unity and national identity among the diverse Indian population. The peak acceptance and awe of the railways is witnessed in Satyajit Ray's "Pather Panchali" (1955) when the protagonist, Apu, busy playing in the fields with his sister, anticipates the incoming of a train and the siblings marvel over the huffy machine as it passes them.

The initial years of railway construction in India saw the establishment of significant infrastructure to pave the way for future expansion. The first passenger train in India ran between Bori Bunder (Bombay) and Thane on April 16, 1853, marking the beginning of a new era. The Jamalpur Workshop, established in 1862 near Munger, Bihar, was the first railway workshop in India and played a crucial role in maintaining and manufacturing railway equipment.

Key stations like Delhi Junction and Lucknow Junction, established in 1864 and 1914 respectively, became central nodes in the expanding railway network. The Darjeeling Steam Tramway, which later evolved into the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, is a notable example of the engineering feats achieved during this period. The construction of the tramway started in 1879 and by 1880, the track reached Tindharia, and in 1881, it extended to Darjeeling, becoming the DHR. Lord Lytton, the first Viceroy to visit Darjeeling, was among its notable passengers.

These early constructions demonstrated the British technological prowess and opened up new frontiers. While British rule in India had much to do with discipline, uniforms, codes, manners, cricket, symbols, clubs, icons, and the like, the zeal for recreation was a serious pursuit. In his "History of British India," produced in 1817, Scottish historian and political theorist James S Mill remarked on India that it "was a vast system of outdoor relief for Britain's upper class."

The Rail Enthusiast Guide

Over the years, the Indian Railways has achieved numerous milestones and accolades. While the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of toy trains, including the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, and the Kalka-Shimla Railway, are testament to the historical and cultural significance of the railway system, the iconic Pamban Bridge, connecting Rameswaram to Mandapam, encapsulates its evolutionary journey.

The 33 museums, heritage sites, and galleries operated by the Indian Railways repose this unique aspect of the nation's history. The most notable are the National Rail Museum in Delhi, Rewari Steam Locomotive Shed, and Howrah Railway Museum, which provides rich insights into the history of the Eastern Railway.  However, for a truly immersive experience, heritage trains such as the Palace on Wheels, the Deccan Odyssey, and the Maharajas' Express continue to operate on historic routes, offering a blend of history, culture, and luxury.

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