On his way to Delhi for college from Jamshedpur, a young Imtiaz Ali had a peculiar experience on a train. Seated next to a newlywed bride in a darkened train compartment full of the groom's entourage, a wave of youthful fancy washed over the 17-year-old. He began picturing himself as the groom, envisioning the entire scene as his wedding procession.
"It was pitch black because of a power outage, which was quite common back then," Ali, now a 53-year-old filmmaker, told Outlook Traveller over a phone call. "And I suddenly imagined that I was with my bride, and this was my baraat. When the lights came back on, I saw everyone's faces, and reality dawned before we were plunged into darkness again. Growing up in a small town, trains were sometimes portals to unexpected experiences. You were anonymous, free to be whoever you wanted to be."
Perhaps this is what ignited Ali's lifelong fascination with trains, which might seem like an obsession to others. Trains are woven into the fabric of his films.
In "Jab We Met," (2007) Shahid Kapoor's character, Aditya, meets Kareena Kapoor Khan's Geet on a train, sparking their love story. The same is true for Ranbir Kapoor's Ved in "Tamasha," (2015) whose path to self-discovery starts on a train ride away from home.
Even "Love Aaj Kal" (2020) couldn't escape the train's charm. The film, starring Kartik Aaryan and Sara Ali Khan, showcased two love stories—one set in Udaipur in the 90s and the other in modern-day Delhi. The train, of course, played a pivotal role in the former.
His production company, Window Seat Films, also features a logo of a young boy gazing out of a train window. "The constant movement of the landscape, the wind whipping through my hair—it's a connection to nature. The window seat is the perfect way to experience it all," he said.
"My earliest memory of train journeys is being on the platform with my family. Mom, my brother, and I were burdened with suitcases and a giant khaki green holdall stuffed with our chadars (sheets) and takiyas (pillows)," he said. "It was a given that one of us kids would be perched on the floor atop that holdall, wedged between the lower seats."
"Back then, the Travelling Ticket Examiner (TTE) was like the prime minister. Everyone treated him with the utmost importance, running after him and trying everything to get a better berth. It wasn't like today, where everything's organised and online."
Ali also recalled the unique bonds formed on trains. "You'd meet someone," he said, "and instantly feel like they were a long-lost brother, a soulmate destined to be by your side forever. Then, the train would pull into the station, goodbyes would be exchanged, suitcases would be grabbed, and you'd walk away, never to think of them again. Those intense connections, forged in the close quarters of a train compartment, were fleeting yet unforgettable."
For many Indians growing up in the 1980s and 90s, train journeys were synonymous with food. The rhythmic chug of the train served as a soundtrack to a symphony of flavours. Passengers munched on homemade snacks, washing them down with steaming cups of chai bought from the passing chaiwallahs—tea vendors who hopped on and off at stations.
Food played a central role in Ali's memories of childhood train journeys. "My family would prepare special dishes to eat on the train," he recalled. "Everyone would gather around, spreading newspapers on the seat. My brother, mother, cousins—whoever was travelling with us—would dig into parathas and dry mutton curry."
For him, the most memorable train food came from a specific route: Calcutta to Tatanagar (Jamshedpur). This journey, taken to visit relatives, held a unique charm. "We'd eagerly await the scrambled eggs on toast and some incredible cutlets that I only found on that stretch," he said.
Ali also spoke fondly of the unique food specialities associated with different stations. "Igatpuri had its legendary biryani," he explained. "Kharagpur was famous for its chai. There was even a chai vendor between Jamshedpur and Howrah, known for his enthusiastic 'Sabse kharab chai, bohot kharab chai [worst tea, awful tea]!' cry. People would eagerly wait for him because his tea was the best."
Back then, regional specialities truly defined the train food experience. "Everything wasn't readily available everywhere," Ali said. "Places had their unique produce. Now, you can get any biryani anywhere, but back then, the Igatpuri biryani was a must-have, no matter what time of day it was. Passengers would even disembark for a quick bite, confident they had enough time to return before the train departed."
Ali readily admits to being a "shameless foodie" when it comes to train journeys. In his college days, his strategy for lunch was audacious.
"I wouldn't hesitate to walk over to a family, especially Marwaris or Gujaratis. They're known for packing elaborate feasts on trains. I'd sidle up and say, 'Wow, that chutney smells incredible! Can I try it?' Of course, no one minds sharing a bit of chutney. But then, it becomes an invitation. 'Here, have some chapati with it,' they'd say. Then maybe some sabzi. And next thing you know, you're enjoying a full-blown feast with them. It worked every time."
Ali is known for capturing love in various forms in his films, from philia (deep friendship) to mania (obsessive love). But did his extensive train travel experiences shape his unique perspective on romance?
"Train journeys started as adventures for me as a child, then morphed into cherished family time. But eventually, they transformed into something more personal, even romantic. I seemed to have incredible luck; wherever I travelled, on whichever train, my compartment was always filled with beautiful women. My college friends still tease me about it."
"Nothing truly significant ever happened. But it sparked my imagination. I imagined scenarios, wondering, 'What if I missed the train with a girl? The seeds of many stories were sown right there on those train journeys.
For ali, the most memorable train food came from a specific route: Calcutta to Tatanagar (Jamshedpur)
When writing 'Jab We Met,' I wasn't consciously thinking about my own experiences on trains. However, looking back, it's clear that my familiarity and fascination with train travel influenced the story. I don't think I could have written it without that personal connection," he added.
Ali also recounted a particularly troubling yet amusing train experience. His suitcase vanished on a journey back to Delhi from Jamshedpur (where he grew up). "My friend waited until I woke up to break the news," Ali said. "By then, retrieving it was a long shot. We tried complaining at the next station, but it was a dead end. The suitcase held some cash, and with plans to travel onwards to Bombay, I was left stranded."
Winter weather added another layer of discomfort. "Thankfully, I had my kambal (blanket). But the real turning point came when everyone on board started brainstorming ways to get my suitcase back. And as fate would have it, a beautiful young woman was sharing our compartment. My friend decided to use the situation to his advantage. He initiated a conversation with her under the guise of helping me. But, with my luck with the ladies, she became good friends with me instead!"
Ali still travels by train whenever he can. "My usual routes include the journey between Bombay and Delhi and occasionally to Goa. I also travel extensively by train in Europe and places like Uzbekistan, which offers fantastic train services," he said.
Furthermore, Madhya Pradesh is one of the most fascinating landscapes he has encountered while travelling by train, particularly around the Chambal region.
"The river Chambal and the surrounding areas are stunning. This experience inspired elements of the show 'Dr. Arora' (2022), which I wrote and produced. It captures the essence of travelling through north-central India, with its vast and beautiful scenery. Travelling through these areas at night, with the looming darkness and the historical presence of dacoits who once stopped and attacked trains, adds a layer of intrigue and beauty to the journey," he added.
For Ali, train journeys serve to connect one with oneself. "A train journey is like a dream, where you discover hidden parts of yourself and hear the whispers of thoughts you haven't yet acknowledged. It's a space for introspection, a chance to travel within."