They were an elderly, soft-spoken couple, standing in a sunny corner of Pisa Centrale railway station, where we had just arrived from Florence. How convenient that our connection was due to arrive on the same binari (platform), and, oh, wasn't it a lovely day to head for Cinque Terre! "Cheen-kwe Tayr-ray," he said, his bony fingers rolling his 'r's, his elegance almost careless. Italians, I thought, use orchestral hand movements to match the musical cadence of their language.
Our train, we were told by a ticket examiner, had been cancelled. Instead of waiting for a train that would accept our low-cost regional ticket, we boarded another one—€65 lighter after buying a fresh ticket—and were soon speeding towards Cinque Terre, or "five lands." We went for a long day trip to this quintet of tiny, higgledy-piggledy villages in northwestern Italy's scenic Liguria, but then wished we had stayed a day or two. Villagers rent out rooms (camere). Look for signs that say affittacamere (rooms for rent).
The villages are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. They are part of the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. This status has kept all vehicular traffic out, so access is only by train. Electric buses operate within the villages, which are useful for tourists trying to haul luggage over super-steep streets. Everybody walks.
The national park status has also shifted the focus from commercial tourism to sustainable living. Restaurants promote local produce, especially white wines, sweet lemons, and freshly caught fish, enhancing the region's reputation for being laid-back and unpretentious.
The setting is devastatingly beautiful. The five villages sprawl at impossible angles on jagged cliffs. Brightly painted houses cascade down to the sparkling sea, except in Corniglia, which stubbornly remains atop a vertiginous mountain, its railway station a knee-breaking climb up 400 old steps (someone said 365, one for each day of the year). Surrounding the villages are olive groves and vineyards, with paths worn by farmers who have traversed this serrated terrain for centuries.
We chose the popular walking trail No. 2, from Vernazza to Monterosso, a coastal hike listed as moderately difficult and “about two hours.” We took nearly twice that time, admiring the Mediterranean. Panting over some single-file ascents, we pressed ourselves against the rock face to share notes with other families (also puffing)—some with young kids, others with dogs, and the elders with walking sticks being the most enthusiastic among us. “Go on,” they cheered. “At least you’re still young.”
This isn't an easy, one-hop destination from anywhere. It is connected by train to Florence, and Milan is about three hours by train from Levanto, one of the two mainline stations closest to Cinque Terre; the other is La Spezia. It takes a while to reach this quintet, but when you do, you'll be dizzy with delight.
By Train: The most convenient option is to take a train. From major cities like Florence, Milan, or Pisa, you can take a regional or high-speed train to La Spezia, the gateway to Cinque Terre. From La Spezia, local trains run frequently to each of the five villages: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.
By Car: While driving offers scenic views, parking is limited. It’s best to park in La Spezia and use the train or ferry to reach the villages.
By Ferry: Ferries operate between the villages (except Corniglia) from spring to autumn, offering stunning views of the coastline.
On Foot: Hike the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), which connects the villages, or opt for shorter, village-specific trails.
By Train: A Cinque Terre Train Card offers unlimited train rides, making it ideal for hopping between the villages.