I stare from my balcony amidst the silence of the city as dawn breaks gently upon the skyline of Zagreb. My journey begins in the heart of Croatia's capital with its bustling markets and charming streets, fusing the ancient and the modern. I wait a moment and then put on my tiny backpack to set forth for a stroll.
My first stop was Dolac Market, the perfect emblem of a gluttonous sensory experience. A lineup of fresh produce, aromatic herbs and the vibrant chatter of vendors set the stage for a morning fair at the city’s heart. I picked up a warm, flaky burek—a traditional pastry—and savoured my first taste of the crumbly delight. As I wandered the alleyways I witnessed the city coming to life, with tourists assembled in groups and local businesses opening up their shops. I explored the collections of the local marts with their souvenirs and antique curios. At last, I decided to buy a gigantic wall-mounted compass clock. I finished the day by indulging in pork knuckles with bread, a filling platter of lamb sarma and strudel.
The next day, my itinerary mentioned a group tour on the water in neighbouring Slovenia. The journey there was marked by rolling hills and rural life visible through the window. Upon arrival, the serene waters of Lake Bled and the island church were reminiscent of a fairy tale from childhood. Rowing towards Bled Island, there was a noticeable calm, each moment forming lasting memories at the core of my heart. I then climbed Bled Castle to witness the beauty of the world from atop. Despite the eight-hour-long journey, once I hit the bed back in my hotel, I reminisced about the day and let the scenic beauty drench my soul. It was time for my next move but before that I slept with memories pressed to my heart.
The next stop in my itinerary was Split in Croatia. As I entered the city, the iconic Diocletian's Palace stood as an invitation to its past. Francis, our guide, was all set to take our troop for a planned walking tour. Walking through the maze-like alleys of this majestic site, I and the other tourists got transported to the Roman era, their historical echoes present in each cobblestone and archway. The palace is a heritage sight of the city, containing shops, cafés and residences within its old walls. After navigating its complex pathways, I stood at a corner and contemplated the myriad lives and narratives that once took place within these ancient stone corridors, each step unfolding a story untold.
It was late afternoon by the time we reached the hotel, and my tan was now getting increasingly visible. I took a quick nap followed by a late afternoon lunch around 3PM, where I tasted some lip-smacking appetisers. Francis was too weary to accompany me outdoors so I took his advice and decided on a solo bicycle ride.
One might not know till one experiences it but a bicycle ride amid the silent streets of Split, and against a dusk-laden sky of purple and golden hues, is a majestic sight. After a two-hour ride, with the fading tunes of street musicians accompanying each turn of the wheel, I began to look forward to the next spot on my second day in Split—Krka National Park.
The park contrasted sharply with the ancient architectural remnants of Split. Upon entering this lush green haven, my senses were immediately captured by the thunderous roar of the waterfalls. As I walked through the landscape, each gigantic tree seemed to converse in its own language. Water dripped down the leaves. I sat there for a while to feel the peaceful respite, simply witnessing this world outside of the urban cacophony.
Although I am a teetotaller, it would have been a shame to walk away from the vineyards that pop up in every part of Croatia. The Dalmatian coast is home to immersive wine tastings that highlight the country’s strong viticultural heritage. With every tasting of the Plavac Mali and Pošip grape varietals, a tale of sun-kissed vineyards and of generations of winemakers revealed itself. I went back home satiated with the beauty of the world pressed to my chest and fond memories.
Afterwards, I boarded a catamaran to Dubrovnik. The only thing I had eyes for was the spectacular expanse of the Adriatic Sea underneath. In the city, I started off on a cable car ride to witness a panoramic view of the town and the sea. As the sun went down, I strolled along historic alleys and marvelled at the ancient tales, folklore and myths that define Dubrovnik. The cobbled streets of the old metropolis, the aroma of fresh seafood from Swiss tent-styled cafés and the distant echoes of church bells all wove a tale of Croatian magnificence.
An unexpected highlight of my adventure was the opportunity to witness a Salvador Dalí exhibition in Dubrovnik. The juxtaposition of surrealism against the town's historic backdrop created a real-life avant-garde atmosphere.
But no travel journey of mine comes to an end without a foodie like me having a foodgasmic experience. To my luck, Croatia's culinary tradition proved to be a delightful journey on its own. From the exquisite seafood of the Dalmatian coast to the hearty stews and meats of the interior, each meal celebrated the unique flavours of the region. I relished every bite of black risotto, truffle pasta and tender lamb cooked under the bell, called peka. The wide array of seasonal produce I encountered in the local markets was a testament to the country's rich gastronomic heritage.
As my unforgettable journey through Croatia came to an end, I found myself drenched in its captivating beauty and peace; its blend of fantasy and reality, ancient and modern. When it was finally time to leave, I hauled on my bag like a man who now has to unlearn everything and make a place in his heart to keep such beautiful memories alive forever.